Pivoting the buggy
10-14-2009, 09:49 PM
#31
I read a lot about this tire setup last year but don't hear anybody talking about it anymore. Those two tires look more similar to each other than I expected but see a couple of small differences that I think effect sideways traction and forward traction. Does anybody know what the equivalent AKA setup would be? I was wanting to finally try AKA next season due to all of the hype. Also, if you do this Crowbar/Crossbow setup do most people go with the same compound front/rear?
We pretty much always run the same compound front and rear. I am sure that there maybe a case when you might need some other compound but I have yet to experience that!
Anyways I promise you that you will not be disappointed with the tire setup in the Blue compound. Also if you are running on a grooved hard packed track definitely try our new profiled foams. PM me if you guys have any other questions or just want to talk JConcepts.Marcus
10-15-2009, 06:56 AM
#32
I remember watching this video when it first came out. The bottom line is he has the God given talent which makes him an Elite pro driver. I remember the first time I was able to see a pro driver in person for the first time, unbelievable car control. Pros seem to be able to save or correct there cars from almost anything. I am envious. 
10-16-2009, 05:04 AM
#33
Tech Addict
10-16-2009, 05:13 AM
#34
No one mentioned Dif setup. That would also be another variable in your setup for allowing the car to rotate under control.
10-16-2009, 07:33 AM
#35
I'm not transgender, I just like dressing pretty from time to time.
I've found that overdriving the front diff increases rotation off power and on power. I thought it would do the opposite. On power it feels similar to going to a thicker diff fluid, off power the car seems to drag the rear wheels causing it to lose some rear bite. Less fishtailing as well.
Active diff 2/5/3 with the front overdriven, and Standard 5/4/3, or 7/5/3 seem to work well. Coasting at high speeds on the straight to steer around a wreck or a kink in the track is difficult with the active diff. Gets loose. Need to stay on power or off, No coasting, just like a motorcross bike.
I use extra rear camber to take away grip and to keep the car from traction rolling. -3/-4*
Aka Gridirons seem to be my hot ticket on any hardpacked outdoor track, i thought they'd hate dusty or torn up tracks like the Aka chart says, but I was wrong.
I use a lot of rear brake bias, not to lock the rear, but to keep the fronts from loosing traction and steering. Too much front brake ruins turnin.
Wheelbase adjustments seem to be hit or miss, sometimes moveing the rear tires forward gives me more rotation, sometimes moving them all the way back gives me more rotation.
I've found that overdriving the front diff increases rotation off power and on power. I thought it would do the opposite. On power it feels similar to going to a thicker diff fluid, off power the car seems to drag the rear wheels causing it to lose some rear bite. Less fishtailing as well.
Active diff 2/5/3 with the front overdriven, and Standard 5/4/3, or 7/5/3 seem to work well. Coasting at high speeds on the straight to steer around a wreck or a kink in the track is difficult with the active diff. Gets loose. Need to stay on power or off, No coasting, just like a motorcross bike.
I use extra rear camber to take away grip and to keep the car from traction rolling. -3/-4*
Aka Gridirons seem to be my hot ticket on any hardpacked outdoor track, i thought they'd hate dusty or torn up tracks like the Aka chart says, but I was wrong.
I use a lot of rear brake bias, not to lock the rear, but to keep the fronts from loosing traction and steering. Too much front brake ruins turnin.
Wheelbase adjustments seem to be hit or miss, sometimes moveing the rear tires forward gives me more rotation, sometimes moving them all the way back gives me more rotation.
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