Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

I remember the old Yokomo's bending CVDs or just wearing out pretty fast.....

This new car has good quality materials and practical design. The old yokomo used to sacrifice some life for weight savings....

EDWARD2003

iTrader: (8)

How many of you are running the stock plastic suspension arms,front and rear hubs, and castor blocks for asphalt racing?

I'm not to sure if I should switch out the plastic components for the carbon ones right away.

What do you think?

Also, did any of you drill tiny holes in the shock caps to relieve air pressure on the bladder? I've done this with mine to achieve zero rebound. This is not a new thing, but I was wondering if you guys have done this to your shocks.

jumpnjack

we run the plastic here in Hawaii, but make sure you boil them before using them.. and yes we drill them out.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

Plastic arms for asphalt racing, have never boiled them though ?
and I always use Graphite steering blocks, as they are more durable than plastic

Carbon arms for indoor/high grip racing

No holes in shock cap, no need

cyclonetog

Ronald and Naoto only ever seem to use the graphite arms, even at the worlds without additive.

DOTMAN

iTrader: (5)

What is the purpose of boiling the plastic arms?

jumpnjack

Conditioning plastic parts

Originally by Plasticar

Adding water to the gears works because the material used to make them is nylon. Nylon absorbs moisture, which makes it more flexible and resistant to impact, both of which help it be less likely to break. A common trade name for nylon used in hobby and sporting goods is Zytel, but there are many other brands also.

It is not recommended to actually BOIL the parts, as the higher heat can degrade the material. Rather the suggestion to bring the water just to a boil, then either pour it into another container, or take off the heat and add the parts to sit is a better one. It doesn't take very long to improve the toughness of the gears (or any other nylon parts). 20-30 minutes should be plenty.

This method will not work with any other types of plastic. Delrin, Lexan, none of these are improved in this method. Fortunately, most of the structural parts in RC cars are nylon.

This process does happen naturally, but takes 6-9 months in open air. Once the moisture has been put into the part, it will continue to adjust the level, but this is a permanent condition, as it is mearly accellerating a natural process.

The nylon gears and other parts will not melt in the boiling water. They don't melt until over 200ºC, so unless you have them sitting on the bottom of the pan on high, you are OK. Rather, it is the hot water itself that is the problem. If the water is hot enough for long enough, it will start to break down the plastic itself.

A few mintues on the stovetop should be no problem at all, but you are best as described to remove from heat and let the parts sit in the very hot water that way. That will be more than sufficient to properly condition the parts.

BTW, the majority of the black plastic used in the chassis, drivetrain, suspension pieces is probably nylon and can be conditioned this way if you like. Any of these parts will be harder to break, but will be more flexible. Eventually they will get that way on their own, you are just speeding up the process for your own benefit.

RedBullFiXX

iTrader: (34)

So you do this to keep from braking parts, or you like more flex, or both

Neither of which are necessary on a BD7 as this chassis inherently has a lot of lateral grip , but it is certainly an option

We used to do this with 12th scale front arms back in the day....

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

I like plastic arms almost everywhere, except on crazy high traction carpet. I keep switching back and forth on carpet and it's hard to tell the difference until the traction is really high or you're racing modified with really fast and harsh weight transfer.

kschu

iTrader: (16)

i will go for graphite straightaway....i found it give more response

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone else take out 2 screws from the front of the upperdeck for more steering on asphalt?

bukil

iTrader: (39)

You probably already know this but here goes... I remove this from my car to achieve the steering I want.

Talk about aggressive steering

kschu

iTrader: (16)

i remove it to make the front steering response alittle delay when entering corner...and it help a little bit of steering when exit corner..

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

So do you guys like it with or without the screws? I didn't like it. Cant wait to race mod next time on asphalt.

NolanP

iTrader: (8)

Rear CST is 60% 2000 40% 1000.
Stock Wheelbase
Stock Sway Bars