TC3 Forum
#5326
Tech Fanatic
Would running a oneway decrease on power push? Because it would act like a spool on power, and don't spools decrease on power push? Or mabey I'm just imagining that they do . I'll try adding some internal limiters to the front shocks (decreasing droop). Anyone have any other ideas?
#5327
i have never really run oneways. only tryed one for a couple laps. i do run spools, but when you switch from a diff to a spool you will need to alter your driving style and set up. it will push on corner entry but pull hard on corner exit. once you get the hang of it you will love the way it pulls the car through chicanes and tight sections.
#5329
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
With a one-way you will gain steering going into the corner and when you get on the gas it will want to pull the rear around, possibly making it loose. When you run a one-way you will have to remember to not jam on the brakes because you will spin out, but you could always turn that epa down some.
May I suggest the book from XXX-Main. It has a bunch of chassis information in there and Martin Crisp did an excellent job. Plus it is small enough to put in your pit box and take it with you.
May I suggest the book from XXX-Main. It has a bunch of chassis information in there and Martin Crisp did an excellent job. Plus it is small enough to put in your pit box and take it with you.
#5330
Tech Fanatic
But no one has any other idea to eliminate on throttle push? I'll ask people at my track, mabey they have some ideas. Mabey it could be that the car is transferring too much weight to the rear on acceleration? Do you think I should try red springs in the rear to eliminate some weight transfer? I'll look into some of my resources and things about that. Thanks for any other ideas.
#5331
Stiffening to a RED in the back will give you an increase in overall steering, I would give it a try.
#5332
Tech Fanatic
I'll try the red in the back. Mabey I'll fuss around with the camber link positions. But I'm pretty sure now that it's the wieght transfer. I'll let you know how it goes and if I have any other problems. Would standing the front shocks up more or leaning the rear shocks down more change the on power steering? Mabey installing a rear tower in the front to get the front shocks to stand up more would work....... I look into that more too.
#5333
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Hey racerdx6---
You pretty much want to run the rear shock tower up front on any track. Durng carpet season over hear in northern Cal. we have a stock rubber class. You may want t try upper/inner camber locations and 50wt. all around. You may also want to try blue up front and silver in the rear & r+2+3 block. It's a big difference from your set up, but it's very aggresive and has lots of steering. Pretty much Barry Bakers set-up that you can get from the AE web page. If possible try sorex 28's up front and 24's in the rear. Tires are 90% of handling characteristics--Al
You pretty much want to run the rear shock tower up front on any track. Durng carpet season over hear in northern Cal. we have a stock rubber class. You may want t try upper/inner camber locations and 50wt. all around. You may also want to try blue up front and silver in the rear & r+2+3 block. It's a big difference from your set up, but it's very aggresive and has lots of steering. Pretty much Barry Bakers set-up that you can get from the AE web page. If possible try sorex 28's up front and 24's in the rear. Tires are 90% of handling characteristics--Al
#5334
Super Moderator
iTrader: (81)
I think someone mentioned this before, increase your spacers in your shocks to 6 in the front and 4 in the rear. You could also change to heavier shock oil in the front to help slow down the weight transfer some but only if your track is smooth.
Just curious, does your suspension arms have droop screws in them? If not, you might want to think about getting some that do, you can still use your same chassis. It makes it easier to adjust droop than having to take the shocks apart.
Just curious, does your suspension arms have droop screws in them? If not, you might want to think about getting some that do, you can still use your same chassis. It makes it easier to adjust droop than having to take the shocks apart.
#5335
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Proficar403
Arun... are you still running Hurricane Saturday nights? You know that they are racing at Hobbytown on one Sunday a month... right? Are you and Jesse planning on coming out there the 22nd of this month? My job has me working nights with Tuesday and Wednesday off... so i cant run at Hurricane anymore. But i can make it to Hobbytown. Wont you guys come out there and race? I know you guys have a trailer... but i got a tent too... so we would have plenty of room out of the sun. They have their own transponders now too... so you dont have to have personals. Lemme know...
- Dave
- Dave
#5336
Racerdx - if you're pushing on power, then you're transferring too much weight rearward.
Stiffen your rear springs by a notch or, if it is that you push at the beginning but not so much at the end, go a notch up on your oil. also, try stiffening up your rear sway bar.
Stiffen your rear springs by a notch or, if it is that you push at the beginning but not so much at the end, go a notch up on your oil. also, try stiffening up your rear sway bar.
#5337
Tech Fanatic
Ok thanks for the help, heres the order of things I'll try:
1. Put red springs in rear
2. Move front camber link to upper inner position to lower my front roll center (RC) so the front will roll more and get more front traction.
3. Install rear tower up front
4. Add 2 spacers to all shocks (my suspension arms do have droop screw holes but I still have one of the old chassis and I don't feel like buying a new one). If I do install spacers than I will also put some 50 weight oil in while I'm at it, I know it's best to make one change at a time but it takes so long to change oil or install spacers, or atleast it takes a long time for me .
5. I'll try the BRP sway bar kit in the rear because it comes with two different stiffness's so I could put the stiffer one on to give me more steering.
6. Mabey I can borrow some one elses tires to see how I like them before I buy a whole set of my own.
1. Put red springs in rear
2. Move front camber link to upper inner position to lower my front roll center (RC) so the front will roll more and get more front traction.
3. Install rear tower up front
4. Add 2 spacers to all shocks (my suspension arms do have droop screw holes but I still have one of the old chassis and I don't feel like buying a new one). If I do install spacers than I will also put some 50 weight oil in while I'm at it, I know it's best to make one change at a time but it takes so long to change oil or install spacers, or atleast it takes a long time for me .
5. I'll try the BRP sway bar kit in the rear because it comes with two different stiffness's so I could put the stiffer one on to give me more steering.
6. Mabey I can borrow some one elses tires to see how I like them before I buy a whole set of my own.
#5338
racer- it sounds like a weight transfer problem. you should try the rear springs first then fine tune for how fast you want the weight to transfer with shock oil.
you can still switch to the droop screw arms and run the old chassis i believe, as kraig stated. this will let you tune your droop in much smaller incriments.
you can still switch to the droop screw arms and run the old chassis i believe, as kraig stated. this will let you tune your droop in much smaller incriments.
#5339
DaveW you have a PM.
#5340
Tech Fanatic
I may try using the droop screws if I get around to it. But if I want to adjust how fast the wieght is transferred with the shock oil than I will just add a couple spacers while I'm at it.