SerpentCT4S

iTrader: (95)

Got my DF03RA all built. I just have to paint and finish my body.

I will post pics later!

SerpentCT4S

iTrader: (95)

Here is my DF03-RA.

Raman

iTrader: (94)

Hey guys, do any of you have a Lancia DF03-ra? Im in the process of putting a Lancia body that I had left over from tt01 on the DF03. Looks like Tamiya is using different mount holes in the back on the DF03 version.. also the foam bumper looks like it needs to be cut.. my kit was originally the Subaru ..

Any pictures or comments would be appreciated, since the manual is not online

MOTORMAN29

iTrader: (1)

Are all the different DF-03ra cars that Tamiya sells the same besides the bodies??

and which is better tt-01e or this one? (for off/on road)


thanks!

Sith Lord

iTrader: (21)

Pretty much. Some have the inner body included. Other than that, not much.

DF03RA is basically the Off Road DF03 buggy converted to a road car, so does well on the dirt. TT01 is essentially a beginners on road car, so not so good.

Lethal Enforcer

iTrader: (98)

Just got a lancia DF03ra. I really like it.Alota nice features

Lethal Enforcer

iTrader: (98)

Looking to get universal cvds. Anyone know where I can get them

kms7852

iTrader: (16)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-TA04-TT-0...#ht_3006wt_907

I just bought one from ebay but I think u can try rcmart out. here

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tt0...h=595_744_1292

This is located in USA. I already got CVD for front but I might get another for the back. Not sure yet but here's the website.

http://www.ampdraw.com/product.php?u...roductid=23191

I got so much hop up in my car

Now i'm wondering if I should get Carbon fiber shock towers. Good or bad?

Lethal Enforcer

iTrader: (98)

Thanks, I figured out that they are the same as a tt01.I found aluminum ones on ebay ,but won't get those,i am sure they would bend. The CF shock towers would be sweet.Are you running a slipper clutch?

kms7852

iTrader: (16)

What I am worried about Carbon Fibers are that they are very Brittle. It takes a lot of beating for them to "Break" (Snap) but it will happen if the hit is strong enough. Well, Aluminum ones, you're right, it bends. That's what I am worried about. I found out plastic ones are much more Flexible in the way that it will take some beating before it will bend. I know CF's are much higher quality material but why invest so much money if it will SNAP when Plastic parts can be more flexible. Let me know what you think.

I still haven't got my DF-03RA on mail yet. It will probably come on Monday I think. I got it used so it has Slipper Clutch on it. My previous owner says he put 48P 69T SC10 Spur Gear on that slipper clutch set. I am not sure what pinion gear is good for 4600KV castle sidewinder model. I am thinking of 48P 32T or 28T. If anyone can help me out on this, I would appreciate it.

I so far got Aluminum blue main shaft, with both aluminum blue housings.
Blue aluminum lower front and rear suspension arms.
Blue Aluminum front hub carrier.
Blue aluminum steering rod.
Blue Aluminum rear suspension brace.
CVD for front steering
TRF shocks

A dust cover DF03 Dark Impact Body.
I am not sure CVD in the back would help tremendously so I am just keeping stock dogbones for now.

I am considering the CF front and rear towers
Blue Aluminum gear cover (not sure it will fit with slipper kit)
Blue aluminum gear plate (also not sure if it will fit with slipper kit)
Lightweight battery pin (Looks like waste of money though)

Maybe blue aluminum battery cover (only for decoration)

Any other upgrades I should do?
I am not getting front one way or center one way though.

niznai

Aluminium in steering and suspension arms (camber links) is best avoided. It is just a weak spot and it will bend and then snap. The kit steel dealies are much better (mine are still intact after a lot of abuse). Likewise lower suspension arms. The kit plastic is very good and will take any abuse. Liekwise the mainshaft. The kit shaft is very good and the plastic couplers are a lot better than aluminium ones, as they don't wear out.

About shock towers, you're spot on. Plastic is a lot more flexible, but it will last forever, especially if you're not a very good driver. Otherwise, the rear tower is likely to break (big jumps with landings wrong face down = landing on rear shock tower).

The rest is just bling (except for CVDs which are highly recommended both front and rear). Nobody wants to go home early becasue they lost a dogbone when they broke the suspension.

Lethal Enforcer

iTrader: (98)

I definitely want the cvds.The angle the dogbones are at right now ,looks like you would easily loose a bone

Lethal Enforcer

iTrader: (98)

Here is a couple of pics of my rally.Gonna race next friday night.The local track has a rally car class.They run 540 motors to help keep it more even

kms7852

iTrader: (16)

Cool! Nice body! Very nice.

Does it have TRF Shocks? That's what it looks like to me.
What springs do you use? Soft?
Oil shocks?

You have any videos rallying?

By the way, do the rally tires wear out fast? Just wondering.

kms7852

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for your input. I am actually running brushless so I need aluminum shaft and cup for sure. The plastic ones are torn apart after some abuse with brushless. The slipper Clutch was a must and I got that too.

I honestly wanted that bling of Blue aluminum parts so I got the steering and suspension arms in blue aluminum. You are right about bending and all. I am planning on putting the plastic ones first and use that until it breaks or something. For pictures, aluminum ones will do.

Shock towers, you're totally right, I won't go into Carbon Fibers till one of them bend or something. So plastic for now. I am using CVD on front steering and just normal dogbones in the rear. That way, If I loose dogbones in the rear, I have extra from front I can use.

I have 4600KV Castle Sidewinder with slipper clutch installed, SC10 69T 48P gear. Any idea what pinion gear I should use? Thanks!