172LikesKyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
12-21-2016, 08:46 AM - Wikipost
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11-19-2013, 01:42 PM
#8702
Tech Adept
11-19-2013, 03:23 PM
#8704
I measure the height of the hinge pin from the chassis when I shim the rear 2mm it gave me an equal measurement front to rear of the hinge pin giving you 0 degree anti-squat..
I have been fine tuning my TC and the degree of the squat is = to the thickness of the shims..
I have been fine tuning my TC and the degree of the squat is = to the thickness of the shims..
11-19-2013, 07:25 PM
#8706
11-19-2013, 11:03 PM
#8708
Any of you who run on carpet or real high grip have tips on freeing up the rear? I'm on the 2nd shortest link in the rear already, turn in is good, but not mid corner.
Second option would be add a shim under the front lower bulkhead.
11-20-2013, 01:04 AM
#8709
Tech Master
Most accurate answer I could find without measuring myself.
From Oople
"Definitely 2deg with no spacers under either RF or RR blocks.
Shims are 0.5mm thick which equates to 0.75deg per shim (1.5deg per mm) - if you want to get really accurate it's actually moves between 0.71 & 0.78deg due to the swept angle changing too but most people use 0.75 without issue"
So I have read where some people say 1mm gives 1 deg and where most say .5mm gives 1 deg.
From Oople
"Definitely 2deg with no spacers under either RF or RR blocks.
Shims are 0.5mm thick which equates to 0.75deg per shim (1.5deg per mm) - if you want to get really accurate it's actually moves between 0.71 & 0.78deg due to the swept angle changing too but most people use 0.75 without issue"
So I have read where some people say 1mm gives 1 deg and where most say .5mm gives 1 deg.
How I got to those numbers when I was designing the Scorpion MM RB5 converstion....
Wishbone 32
ball 4
(edge-centre
of ball)
Total width 40
So therefore;
Height Pin angle
difference
-0.5 -0.716
0.0 0.000
0.5 0.716
1.0 1.433
1.5 2.149
2.0 2.866
Hope that helps.
11-20-2013, 01:11 AM
#8710
The statement from oOple is from myself.
How I got to those numbers when I was designing the Scorpion MM RB5 converstion....
Wishbone 32
ball 4
(edge-centre
of ball)
Total width 40
So therefore;
Height Pin angle
difference
-0.5 -0.716
0.0 0.000
0.5 0.716
1.0 1.433
1.5 2.149
2.0 2.866
Hope that helps.
How I got to those numbers when I was designing the Scorpion MM RB5 converstion....
Wishbone 32
ball 4
(edge-centre
of ball)
Total width 40
So therefore;
Height Pin angle
difference
-0.5 -0.716
0.0 0.000
0.5 0.716
1.0 1.433
1.5 2.149
2.0 2.866
Hope that helps.
11-20-2013, 01:14 AM
#8711
11-20-2013, 01:15 AM
#8712
Tech Master
To free up rear on very high side bite surfaces;
Less rear toe (especially useful if done from inboard as also slightly lengthens wheelbase),
Longer wheelbase from rear and/or move centre of mass forward depending on how tight the layout is,
Increase rear oil by 50cst (or 50cst additional over any increase in front oil),
Longer rear link (so rolls slower thus can change direction faster),
Raise inner ball studs BOTH ends of the car (gives the effect of more on power steering which makes the rear feel freer),
Stiffer rear spring (or move lower shock out on rear arm as this gives added benefit of reducing rear droop too),
Reduce overall droop but slightly more reduction in the rear (less roll over all but relatively less in the rear helps rotation),
Take weight out of the car (less force from mass loading the same width tires = less overall grip),
Increase antisquat (less rearward weight transfer under power keeps the front working harder),
Increase rear track width (again best done from inside end as that helps with roll centre placement too),
That is the list of what I do between my normal MM setup and going somewhere like Silverstone which is velcro grippy!!
Less rear toe (especially useful if done from inboard as also slightly lengthens wheelbase),
Longer wheelbase from rear and/or move centre of mass forward depending on how tight the layout is,
Increase rear oil by 50cst (or 50cst additional over any increase in front oil),
Longer rear link (so rolls slower thus can change direction faster),
Raise inner ball studs BOTH ends of the car (gives the effect of more on power steering which makes the rear feel freer),
Stiffer rear spring (or move lower shock out on rear arm as this gives added benefit of reducing rear droop too),
Reduce overall droop but slightly more reduction in the rear (less roll over all but relatively less in the rear helps rotation),
Take weight out of the car (less force from mass loading the same width tires = less overall grip),
Increase antisquat (less rearward weight transfer under power keeps the front working harder),
Increase rear track width (again best done from inside end as that helps with roll centre placement too),
That is the list of what I do between my normal MM setup and going somewhere like Silverstone which is velcro grippy!!
11-20-2013, 02:21 AM
#8713
Hey guys, ive bought an rb6 and have almost finished the build. Do you guys actually grease the cvd end into the diff outdrive? Wouldnt that just attract dirt and promote wear?? And also in the kits instructions it doesnt say what shock oils run front or rear!? Do you have a base line starting point for me?? The info is much appreciated, im a nitro dude and this is my first electric kit im just wanting to do it right.
11-20-2013, 06:57 AM
#8715
To free up rear on very high side bite surfaces;
Less rear toe (especially useful if done from inboard as also slightly lengthens wheelbase),
Longer wheelbase from rear and/or move centre of mass forward depending on how tight the layout is,
Increase rear oil by 50cst (or 50cst additional over any increase in front oil),
Longer rear link (so rolls slower thus can change direction faster),
Raise inner ball studs BOTH ends of the car (gives the effect of more on power steering which makes the rear feel freer),
Stiffer rear spring (or move lower shock out on rear arm as this gives added benefit of reducing rear droop too),
Reduce overall droop but slightly more reduction in the rear (less roll over all but relatively less in the rear helps rotation),
Take weight out of the car (less force from mass loading the same width tires = less overall grip),
Increase antisquat (less rearward weight transfer under power keeps the front working harder),
Increase rear track width (again best done from inside end as that helps with roll centre placement too),
That is the list of what I do between my normal MM setup and going somewhere like Silverstone which is velcro grippy!!
Less rear toe (especially useful if done from inboard as also slightly lengthens wheelbase),
Longer wheelbase from rear and/or move centre of mass forward depending on how tight the layout is,
Increase rear oil by 50cst (or 50cst additional over any increase in front oil),
Longer rear link (so rolls slower thus can change direction faster),
Raise inner ball studs BOTH ends of the car (gives the effect of more on power steering which makes the rear feel freer),
Stiffer rear spring (or move lower shock out on rear arm as this gives added benefit of reducing rear droop too),
Reduce overall droop but slightly more reduction in the rear (less roll over all but relatively less in the rear helps rotation),
Take weight out of the car (less force from mass loading the same width tires = less overall grip),
Increase antisquat (less rearward weight transfer under power keeps the front working harder),
Increase rear track width (again best done from inside end as that helps with roll centre placement too),
That is the list of what I do between my normal MM setup and going somewhere like Silverstone which is velcro grippy!!