3D-Seth

iTrader: (36)

As far as fore/aft position goes, it looks pretty good.

It does look high off the ground though and raked forward a little (tail high). Get your ride height (with battery) set to 5mm and run the body down until it's about the height of a sharpie radius if you lay it down (I.E. The sharpie is about 5mm from side to marker point, body should be near ride height off the ground.

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

I have an integy set up station because it was cheapest and I got a discount through a club. I can mount up both my xray and my associated 10th scale buggy. The toe plate works well on the integy system, its easy to read and is used below the car, versus the other systems seem to place it over the top. The integy toe plate comes with two different width spacers for 1/10 and 1/8 onroad cars (or 1/10 offroad). Only little issue I ran into when mounting up my buggy was that the axles aren't threaded all the way to the wheel hub as 1/10 buggy rims have a very thick center core to them. The system uses a nut to screw down to the wheel hub. To mount up my buggy I need to put an extra hub on the back to get the station seated properly. In my experience it doesn't really throw off the toe measurement.

That being said, the one main thing that would prevent you from being able to use a touring car station with your buggy is the ground clearance. I want to say the Hudy system mounts the car very low to the board, which would not be ideal with the large suspension travel of a buggy. My integy system mounts the car up pretty high so that there is plenty of ground clearance.

Overall the integy system is decent, its not a totally perfect fit and finish, but is precise enough to get the job done. You get what you pay for. I'm happy as I only tend to use it in between race days to get the car in shape. Once I'm at the track I just use a good ole pit board with a camber gauge and ride height gauge, because in the end the car needs to be set up with the wheels and tires like how it will be running on the track. Having perfect geometry from a setup station may not translate to perfect geometry with the wheels mounted up, so just keep this in mind. If running new tires each run it should be pretty close, but it always varies. Since I only use the setup station in between race days I couldn't justify spending 2-3 times as much for the Hudy system, but ultimately its up to you.

A set up board is a must in my opinion though. If you don't have one, look there first

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Could you tell me exactly which integy station you have? (maybe if you have a part number or can send me a link)... I would appreciate it.
The setup board is the other thing... I don't understand how to use that and what it actually does. Is it just to have a real flat surface? Because I was going to make one from acrylic myself. Or do I need all the markings in It?

Bgilli26

iTrader: (1)

From experience I would suggest against the integy station, I bought one and hated it. I suggest either the hudy or gforce. The gforce one is excellent and includes a case. I personally use the hudy station, but if I were to do it again probably the gforce one just because I ended up having to buy a case for my hudy one. Acrylic will work, glass is best but anything that will remain perfectly flat. CoreRc make a real nice glass board for under 20 bucks. But you can make one yourself. And no, you do not need the markings. It just helps with wheelbase measurements. Hope this helps!

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Deffinitely helps. I was deff thinking about the gforce one. . It looked like the. gforce one didn't have a measurement line or needle for caster. It looked like you pop off the link from the hub and stick a hex driver in the ball end (still threaded into the hub) and use the shaft of the driver as the line to line up against the marking on the station. That was the only thing I didn't like but that's not really a big deal. But thank you. I will probably go with gforce.

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

You lower the ride height by tightening the shock collars right? What do you use the droop screws for? If I tighten those down that lowers the chasis too. Right now I have them set to what the manual says.

biscuit581

iTrader: (4)

i used to back the droop screws off a tad and do them 2nd

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

This is the one I have:
http://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p...w#.VjAi1X6rTIU

Like I said before, it works well for me in between race days and gets the job done, but I know many others like the other brands. Personally I would go for the g-force if I were to buy again. Just note the ground clearance may be an issue if you are trying to use it for your buggy as well.

As for a setup board all you really need is a flat surface as mentioned before. I rarely use the lines, but they are sometimes nice for reference. If lines are needed just borrow someone else's with lines at the track. That or I think Hudy makes a sticker with all the lines you could apply to your board of acrylic.

Its always a good idea to do your setup on a flat level board to make the measurements as accurate as possible. I also like using the board when I tighten down my top deck and bulkheads to ensure there is no tweak in the chassis. Get one thats large enough for both your tc and buggy and you'll be set.

Yes you can adjust ride height with the droop screws, but this is a bad idea. You should be able to get your car to any ride height you need by adjusting the shock collars. I personally like to mark them all with a sharpie for reference of how many turns they each have to keep it consistent.

After you set your ride height with the shock collars you can then set your droop. Droop is how far the arms will fall when the chassis is lifted. It is usually a good idea to run a couple mm of droop, and droop can be used as a tuning aid to add or remove steering from the car. There are a couple of ways in which you can measure droop:
1) Using droop blocks with the wheels off of the car, measure the height of the outer hinge-pin. There are certain tools you can buy for this method that have 10mm blocks and step gauges for the droop.
2) You can measure droop with the tires on with just a ride height gauge. Lift the chassis levelly until the tires are just touching the ground (same for both sides ie. one tire isn't hitting the ground while the other is raised). Then measure the ride height of the chassis. Subtract the ride height value of the car just sitting on the board. The difference between the two is your droop. This method isn't as accurate but can give you a quick way of measuring it without spending $30 on the specialized tools.

The Hudy chassis tuning guide is a must read. It explains all of the car settings, how they affect the cars handling on track, which order you should set things on the car, and how to set them up using a setup station. It uses an older T3 model, but the general principles still apply to any car.
Link to pdf:
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=6143

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Thanks I've been reading the tuning guide. I finished cutting out the body and painted it... Came out like crud IMO. Don't really like the design after the paint went on. Also I ran out of white backer after first backer coat so I let that dry then sprayed gunmetal tamiya can paint over the spaz stix airbrush paint and it bled through. I didn't think it would do that but now the white it kinda messed up. Oh well I can always pickup another body. This will let me run for now.
I was also wondering... I have to run foam tires at my lhs (stupid) but do ppl wipe shoe goo on the sidewalk of foam tires to stop them from tearing and chunking off? The set I got looks like someone started to do that then decided to return them or something. I got em from amain.

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

Another pic

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

I run foam tires at one of my local carpet tracks, they aren't all that bad, just not the norm. You can put some shoe goo or super glue on the edges and it can help with chunking or tearing, but it also doesn't allow the sidewall to flex and can change the handling of the cars. One of the biggest causes of chunking tires is hitting the boards. So if you don't hit the boards often, you should be good. Even if they start chunking there isn't too much of a performance drop off, its more of a cosmetic thing. With foam tires its very important to run the proper amount of camber to keep the wear even. Its also very important to rotate the tires every run or two to keep them wearing consistently. If you don't have camber set correctly and don't rotate the tires for a run or two the performance will suffer and they will be no where near as fast.

Slapjack

iTrader: (19)

What is the norm to run for camber front and rear? I don't have a setup station yet.... I wanted to run a couple races and make sure I like on road before I spend more money.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

1.5-2 degrees, add or remove to add or remove traction (respectively) to that end of the car.

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

With foams I run -1 to -1.5
You don't need a setup station for camber. Just get a good ole RPM camber gauge for $10 and you'll be set.

3D-Seth

iTrader: (36)

Agree for the most part. I run rubber tires (asphalt) and generally vary from 1 to 2 degrees depending on track conditions and how the car is setup. I'm generally in the 1-1.5 mark.

For most people out there, a standard camber gauge will work, as long as you are consistent in the way you measure it, and you actually measure it. I have a setup station, but I'm pretty sure I have OCD about having precision instruments for everything I do. I like to know I'm the one at fault and not the car