Team Magic G4
#3526
btw, when I screwed in clutch nut with two treads left outside, the red spring was too compresed?? It was impossible to screw in the nut, if needed.. Is there something that I do wrong? I pulled out crank and installed flywheel cone according to k-factory artice..
Asil
Asil
#3528
2007 FEMCA
i will participate 2007 FEMCA(may) in Idonesia jakarta by G4S !!!
#3529
Originally Posted by gansei
i will participate 2007 FEMCA(may) in Idonesia jakarta by G4S !!!
#3530
Great looking track ! all of the best at teh FEMCA 2007 Gansei .
Give em hell
Asil ,the red spring is a soft spring and if you winding in the nut that much then Id suggest getting the Black G4S 1.8mm spring or a Mugen hard spring.
Give em hell
Asil ,the red spring is a soft spring and if you winding in the nut that much then Id suggest getting the Black G4S 1.8mm spring or a Mugen hard spring.
#3531
+1 If my eyes don't fool me there is a small hill there I wonder how it's like to drive there...
#3532
Originally Posted by razzor
Great looking track ! all of the best at teh FEMCA 2007 Gansei .
Give em hell
Asil ,the red spring is a soft spring and if you winding in the nut that much then Id suggest getting the Black G4S 1.8mm spring or a Mugen hard spring.
Give em hell
Asil ,the red spring is a soft spring and if you winding in the nut that much then Id suggest getting the Black G4S 1.8mm spring or a Mugen hard spring.
Asil
#3533
Originally Posted by itchy b
You can get clutch nut tools to make the job far easier!
Mugen and Kyosho both make the same type of tool
Mugen and Kyosho both make the same type of tool
HardRacing also make one p/n H6111
http://www.hard-racing.com/productio...6111&pageNum=1
#3534
Tech Master
Originally Posted by gansei
i will participate 2007 FEMCA(may) in Idonesia jakarta by G4S !!!
#3535
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Hey All,
Here is a tease of almost the finished product..... mclucth gap and thrust bearing all set...!
Just waiting on a few parts still to arrive x-fingers it happens this week. Would'nt mind test & tune.
I shall post some good pics and info of the clutch gapping, and paint of the bodyshell.
Enjoy.... I am pooooped out "Tired"
Here is a tease of almost the finished product..... mclucth gap and thrust bearing all set...!
Just waiting on a few parts still to arrive x-fingers it happens this week. Would'nt mind test & tune.
I shall post some good pics and info of the clutch gapping, and paint of the bodyshell.
Enjoy.... I am pooooped out "Tired"
#3536
Originally Posted by ickvanovs
ill be your supporter then
#3537
Hi Guys, Me from Singapore. Just completed building the TM G4S. Will be testing this sat. Hope to learn from you guys in future. Cheers!
#3538
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Hey All,
Here is a tease of almost the finished product..... mclucth gap and thrust bearing all set...!
Just waiting on a few parts still to arrive x-fingers it happens this week. Would'nt mind test & tune.
I shall post some good pics and info of the clutch gapping, and paint of the bodyshell.
Enjoy.... I am pooooped out "Tired"
Here is a tease of almost the finished product..... mclucth gap and thrust bearing all set...!
Just waiting on a few parts still to arrive x-fingers it happens this week. Would'nt mind test & tune.
I shall post some good pics and info of the clutch gapping, and paint of the bodyshell.
Enjoy.... I am pooooped out "Tired"
#3539
Tech Elite
iTrader: (10)
Originally Posted by phoakm
Hi Guys, Me from Singapore. Just completed building the TM G4S. Will be testing this sat. Hope to learn from you guys in future. Cheers!
Thank You... I have had many help from fourm and most of all a "Good Birdy Friend" - he knows who he is Thanks Champ!
I shall Post more info on Blog soon to showcase the paint & motor fittment etc!!
Ill Keep you all POSTED...
#3540
Shock Oil
Serpentd..... Thankd for the kind words. He is just a bundle of joy.
Teehomo..... Yes, I think you will nead to come up on the oil if you have drilled out to 1.5mm
If you are running on smooth track, I would start out at 60wt, maybe going to 70wt. Don't be alarmed that your using such a thick oil. It will be fine. Just nead to make sure that the holes are free from "obstruction"
Bumpy track you may be ok with 60wt or maybe down to 50. Depending on how you like to run the car. (Stiff or soft, etc)
Viscosity will alter slightly with temperature. Another reason for running piston holes slightly larger than stock is that not so much heat is generated internally.
It is not alot.
EG: If you run 50wt at 70 degrees (20C) it would be around 55 to 60wt at 90 degrees (30C) Just a rough guide.
I hope this makes sence.
Menace
Teehomo..... Yes, I think you will nead to come up on the oil if you have drilled out to 1.5mm
If you are running on smooth track, I would start out at 60wt, maybe going to 70wt. Don't be alarmed that your using such a thick oil. It will be fine. Just nead to make sure that the holes are free from "obstruction"
Bumpy track you may be ok with 60wt or maybe down to 50. Depending on how you like to run the car. (Stiff or soft, etc)
Viscosity will alter slightly with temperature. Another reason for running piston holes slightly larger than stock is that not so much heat is generated internally.
It is not alot.
EG: If you run 50wt at 70 degrees (20C) it would be around 55 to 60wt at 90 degrees (30C) Just a rough guide.
I hope this makes sence.
Menace