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Old 01-23-2007, 03:51 AM   #3526
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btw, when I screwed in clutch nut with two treads left outside, the red spring was too compresed?? It was impossible to screw in the nut, if needed.. Is there something that I do wrong? I pulled out crank and installed flywheel cone according to k-factory artice..


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Old 01-23-2007, 04:12 AM   #3527
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You can get clutch nut tools to make the job far easier!
Mugen and Kyosho both make the same type of tool
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Old 01-23-2007, 05:29 AM   #3528
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Default 2007 FEMCA

i will participate 2007 FEMCA(may) in Idonesia jakarta by G4S !!!



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Old 01-23-2007, 05:53 AM   #3529
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Originally Posted by gansei
i will participate 2007 FEMCA(may) in Idonesia jakarta by G4S !!!



That looks like a great facility. Good luck!
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Old 01-23-2007, 06:02 AM   #3530
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Great looking track ! all of the best at teh FEMCA 2007 Gansei .
Give em hell

Asil ,the red spring is a soft spring and if you winding in the nut that much then Id suggest getting the Black G4S 1.8mm spring or a Mugen hard spring.
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Old 01-23-2007, 06:06 AM   #3531
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+1 If my eyes don't fool me there is a small hill there I wonder how it's like to drive there...
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Old 01-23-2007, 06:07 AM   #3532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Great looking track ! all of the best at teh FEMCA 2007 Gansei .
Give em hell

Asil ,the red spring is a soft spring and if you winding in the nut that much then Id suggest getting the Black G4S 1.8mm spring or a Mugen hard spring.
Thanks razzor, black spring is in my shopping list

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Old 01-23-2007, 06:11 AM   #3533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itchy b
You can get clutch nut tools to make the job far easier!
Mugen and Kyosho both make the same type of tool
The clutch nut tool is a must have for me ,its made adjusting the spring tension a snap.
HardRacing also make one p/n H6111
http://www.hard-racing.com/productio...6111&pageNum=1
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Old 01-23-2007, 07:45 AM   #3534
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
i will participate 2007 FEMCA(may) in Idonesia jakarta by G4S !!!
ill be your supporter then
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Old 01-23-2007, 07:49 AM   #3535
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Hey All,

Here is a tease of almost the finished product..... mclucth gap and thrust bearing all set...!

Just waiting on a few parts still to arrive x-fingers it happens this week. Would'nt mind test & tune.

I shall post some good pics and info of the clutch gapping, and paint of the bodyshell.

Enjoy.... I am pooooped out "Tired"
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Old 01-23-2007, 08:06 AM   #3536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ickvanovs
ill be your supporter then
thanks you!! ^^
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:52 PM   #3537
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Hi Guys, Me from Singapore. Just completed building the TM G4S. Will be testing this sat. Hope to learn from you guys in future. Cheers!
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Old 01-23-2007, 03:54 PM   #3538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Hey All,

Here is a tease of almost the finished product..... mclucth gap and thrust bearing all set...!

Just waiting on a few parts still to arrive x-fingers it happens this week. Would'nt mind test & tune.

I shall post some good pics and info of the clutch gapping, and paint of the bodyshell.

Enjoy.... I am pooooped out "Tired"
Hi Kodak, nice job on the body. I also have the same body, but in blue color. Enjoy reading your blog. Cheers!
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Old 01-23-2007, 04:02 PM   #3539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phoakm
Hi Guys, Me from Singapore. Just completed building the TM G4S. Will be testing this sat. Hope to learn from you guys in future. Cheers!

Thank You... I have had many help from fourm and most of all a "Good Birdy Friend" - he knows who he is Thanks Champ!

I shall Post more info on Blog soon to showcase the paint & motor fittment etc!!

Ill Keep you all POSTED...
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Old 01-23-2007, 04:39 PM   #3540
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Default Shock Oil

Serpentd..... Thankd for the kind words. He is just a bundle of joy.

Teehomo..... Yes, I think you will nead to come up on the oil if you have drilled out to 1.5mm

If you are running on smooth track, I would start out at 60wt, maybe going to 70wt. Don't be alarmed that your using such a thick oil. It will be fine. Just nead to make sure that the holes are free from "obstruction"
Bumpy track you may be ok with 60wt or maybe down to 50. Depending on how you like to run the car. (Stiff or soft, etc)

Viscosity will alter slightly with temperature. Another reason for running piston holes slightly larger than stock is that not so much heat is generated internally.
It is not alot.
EG: If you run 50wt at 70 degrees (20C) it would be around 55 to 60wt at 90 degrees (30C) Just a rough guide.

I hope this makes sence.

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