Tamiya mini cooper
Tech Regular
iTrader: (8)
want to ask guys which one you would recommend, ta03 ball diff or Mo5 ball diff? we are using carpet tracks...thanks...
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
The trouble with 3racing diff is the thrustbearing, mine did not even last a battery. I even took the diff apart and regreased it before use. Changed it to Tamiya TRF415 thrustbearing and holds up well. Bought a new diff and tested it with carbide diff balls and Tamiya thrustbearing, It's one of the smoothest diffs i have ever felt. Runs great and excellent traction. The diff is good, but not right out of the box!
Tech Elite
I have the Sweeps 33 tires with medium inserts but have not run them so I can't comment on how well they do on asphalt. I can tell you the tires on Sweeps wheels come out about 53mm outside diameter.
You're going to race that nice Abarth body?
Tech Elite
TA03 diff have been a reliable diff for a long time. Just make sure the drive cups don't slide out (use orings or fuel tubing to hold them in) and strip the splines.
For the sake of argument and because it just seems counterintuitive to me, what's the point of using a ball diff if you are going to crank it down to the point that it acts like a limited slip diff? A ball diff is designed to do just the opposite of what you are trying to get it to do. The thrust bearing is failing because you are overloading it. Same can be said about the bolt/nut.
I read on other threads where touring car guys are using the new Spec R gear diff on the front to get the same effect that you guys are trying to get. They are replacing a ball diff with a gear diff and you guys are replacing a gear diff with a ball diff. I think we all agree that a limited slip effect is better for getting the power to the ground getting out of the turns. It just seems to me that a gear diff is more suitable for this than a ball diff.
My OEM gear diff with two shims and a little AW grease is very smooth and yet has a very good limited slip action. Turning one wheel will spin the motor rather than the other wheel. It's also as reliable as a hammer.
I read on other threads where touring car guys are using the new Spec R gear diff on the front to get the same effect that you guys are trying to get. They are replacing a ball diff with a gear diff and you guys are replacing a gear diff with a ball diff. I think we all agree that a limited slip effect is better for getting the power to the ground getting out of the turns. It just seems to me that a gear diff is more suitable for this than a ball diff.
My OEM gear diff with two shims and a little AW grease is very smooth and yet has a very good limited slip action. Turning one wheel will spin the motor rather than the other wheel. It's also as reliable as a hammer.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (48)
Tech Champion
iTrader: (48)
For the sake of argument and because it just seems counterintuitive to me, what's the point of using a ball diff if you are going to crank it down to the point that it acts like a limited slip diff? A ball diff is designed to do just the opposite of what you are trying to get it to do. The thrust bearing is failing because you are overloading it. Same can be said about the bolt/nut.
I read on other threads where touring car guys are using the new Spec R gear diff on the front to get the same effect that you guys are trying to get. They are replacing a ball diff with a gear diff and you guys are replacing a gear diff with a ball diff. I think we all agree that a limited slip effect is better for getting the power to the ground getting out of the turns. It just seems to me that a gear diff is more suitable for this than a ball diff.
My OEM gear diff with two shims and a little AW grease is very smooth and yet has a very good limited slip action. Turning one wheel will spin the motor rather than the other wheel. It's also as reliable as a hammer.
I read on other threads where touring car guys are using the new Spec R gear diff on the front to get the same effect that you guys are trying to get. They are replacing a ball diff with a gear diff and you guys are replacing a gear diff with a ball diff. I think we all agree that a limited slip effect is better for getting the power to the ground getting out of the turns. It just seems to me that a gear diff is more suitable for this than a ball diff.
My OEM gear diff with two shims and a little AW grease is very smooth and yet has a very good limited slip action. Turning one wheel will spin the motor rather than the other wheel. It's also as reliable as a hammer.
I just need a bit of more work at the outdrives to seal it a bit better
For the sake of argument and because it just seems counterintuitive to me, what's the point of using a ball diff if you are going to crank it down to the point that it acts like a limited slip diff? A ball diff is designed to do just the opposite of what you are trying to get it to do. The thrust bearing is failing because you are overloading it. Same can be said about the bolt/nut.
I read on other threads where touring car guys are using the new Spec R gear diff on the front to get the same effect that you guys are trying to get. They are replacing a ball diff with a gear diff and you guys are replacing a gear diff with a ball diff. I think we all agree that a limited slip effect is better for getting the power to the ground getting out of the turns. It just seems to me that a gear diff is more suitable for this than a ball diff.
My OEM gear diff with two shims and a little AW grease is very smooth and yet has a very good limited slip action. Turning one wheel will spin the motor rather than the other wheel. It's also as reliable as a hammer.
I read on other threads where touring car guys are using the new Spec R gear diff on the front to get the same effect that you guys are trying to get. They are replacing a ball diff with a gear diff and you guys are replacing a gear diff with a ball diff. I think we all agree that a limited slip effect is better for getting the power to the ground getting out of the turns. It just seems to me that a gear diff is more suitable for this than a ball diff.
My OEM gear diff with two shims and a little AW grease is very smooth and yet has a very good limited slip action. Turning one wheel will spin the motor rather than the other wheel. It's also as reliable as a hammer.
I have run touring cars for years when I started racing minis ran with a ball diff but didn’t like the feel,
had to tighten the screw right down to stop the wheel that lifted in the corners spinning out and losing some drive.
Everyone is different but the only thing wrong with kit gear diff was one wheel would spin when not in contact with the track,
and if the gears spins too much would wear it out.
I have run kit gear diff for months now and it is still like new.
All I use is FG sticky grease (FG 6512) fill it up.
I think it’s smoother than ball diff that’s tightened right up but will rotate in corners when both wheels on the track,
helps the wheel that lifts from spinning. Might be a bit heavier,
The best bit for me, build it and forget it. Like you said (It's also as reliable as a hammer)
I’m still new to Tam mini racing and might be wrong,
But it works for me .
Last edited by bodymot; 08-28-2010 at 08:22 AM.
I think you need to find what is best for you personally
I like my ball diff feel and it isn't as tight as it can go
I use a lot of thicker grease for the balls and the diff rings then the thrust bearing gets AW grease on it then i tighten it till it wont slip
stick it in and bobs ya uncle , worked loverly for over 6 months indoors and outdoors
I found with the gear diff if i added spacers it wore the teath off the innergears and no matter what oil / grease i added it just poured out after one race , i even tried the really thick grease for the 5th wheel on a Articulated lorry but that made a real mess . . . . . . . .
I like my ball diff feel and it isn't as tight as it can go
I use a lot of thicker grease for the balls and the diff rings then the thrust bearing gets AW grease on it then i tighten it till it wont slip
stick it in and bobs ya uncle , worked loverly for over 6 months indoors and outdoors
I found with the gear diff if i added spacers it wore the teath off the innergears and no matter what oil / grease i added it just poured out after one race , i even tried the really thick grease for the 5th wheel on a Articulated lorry but that made a real mess . . . . . . . .
I run the mini sweeps, 40 front and 33 rear. I buy the 4 pack, that comes with tire insert and rim. I have to buy two packs (33 and 40). I just glue them and go! The sweeps last forever compared to tamiya. They are smaller in diameter, so on an open track you lose a little top end.
I feel that the sweeps are a great handling tire and for the price you cant beat them!
I feel that the sweeps are a great handling tire and for the price you cant beat them!
Tech Adept
I agree with you,
I have run touring cars for years when I started racing minis ran with a ball diff but didn’t like the feel,
had to tighten the screw right down to stop the wheel that lifted in the corners spinning out and losing some drive.
Everyone is different but the only thing wrong with kit gear diff was one wheel would spin when not in contact with the track,
and if the gears spins too much would wear it out.
I have run kit gear diff for months now and it is still like new.
All I use is FG sticky grease (FG 6512) fill it up.
I think it’s smoother than ball diff that’s tightened right up but will rotate in corners when both wheels on the track,
helps the wheel that lifts from spinning. Might be a bit heavier,
The best bit for me, build it and forget it. Like you said (It's also as reliable as a hammer)
I’m still new to Tam mini racing and might be wrong,
But it works for me .
I have run touring cars for years when I started racing minis ran with a ball diff but didn’t like the feel,
had to tighten the screw right down to stop the wheel that lifted in the corners spinning out and losing some drive.
Everyone is different but the only thing wrong with kit gear diff was one wheel would spin when not in contact with the track,
and if the gears spins too much would wear it out.
I have run kit gear diff for months now and it is still like new.
All I use is FG sticky grease (FG 6512) fill it up.
I think it’s smoother than ball diff that’s tightened right up but will rotate in corners when both wheels on the track,
helps the wheel that lifts from spinning. Might be a bit heavier,
The best bit for me, build it and forget it. Like you said (It's also as reliable as a hammer)
I’m still new to Tam mini racing and might be wrong,
But it works for me .
For to put grease FG 6512.... is it necessary that the differential is watertight?
Tech Initiate
I know what you mean.
I've tired antiware grease before and what as mess that made. Never the less FG grease has just arrived and I must say it's very, very thick.
I'm just going to wait a while now before putting it in
I've tired antiware grease before and what as mess that made. Never the less FG grease has just arrived and I must say it's very, very thick.
I'm just going to wait a while now before putting it in
Tech Initiate
I`ve tested the Spice slicks on carpet and they work really really good. The problem is that they`re twice as much as most others.
Does anyone know something else on RCmart that works just as good?
Thanks
Does anyone know something else on RCmart that works just as good?
Thanks
I tried other thick grease types
I tried other thick grease types but with this one is really sticky and doesn’t go too thin when it warms up,
used to run it in 1/5 marder rear diff years ago.
Had none leak out of the out drives.
Been running it for a few months now had a little leak inside of chassis but only a small amount.
Just like how it feels coming out of corners and the best bit, build it and forget.
But everyone is different.
I’m still new to mini racing but just liked it better than ball diff’s.
used to run it in 1/5 marder rear diff years ago.
Had none leak out of the out drives.
Been running it for a few months now had a little leak inside of chassis but only a small amount.
Just like how it feels coming out of corners and the best bit, build it and forget.
But everyone is different.
I’m still new to mini racing but just liked it better than ball diff’s.