Jokermayhem

iTrader: (1)

How important are the swaybars to run on a medium bite small indoor clay track?

chrisjohns

iTrader: (37)

Sway bars make a huge difference in handeling. There is so much roll is sct due to the weight of the body

frito

iTrader: (58)

Ran my 22 for first time small indoor track ,ran mid motor since I converted over from a xfactor ..ran 54 and 57 pistons with 27.5 in front and 25 in rear , other than pretty basic kit setup, I need a little more on power traction and need more off power turning ,unless on power seems like takes forever to turn...ended up 2 so not bad first time out

Jokermayhem

iTrader: (1)

Breakn' her in on wednesday ...hoping to kill it !!!!

Dirtryder219

iTrader: (59)

Awesome, thanks for the advice. Time to get working on the set up!!

LBR_Frank

iTrader: (9)

From the man himself, thanks Casper!

So far very impressed with this SCT, I am looking forward to implementing your setup.

See you on the track!

LBR_Frank

iTrader: (9)

Looks awesome!

Dirtryder219

iTrader: (59)

+1.....I noticed a huge decrease in body roll after installing the sway bars front and rear. I put the white ones (1.0mm) on both ends and the truck set much flatter in the corners and allowed me to push much harder without the fear of traction rolling due to sever body roll.

LBR_Frank

iTrader: (9)

Agreed, I'm no pro but it made a noticeable difference. white front and yellow in the rear for my home track and the truck is on rails!

AndrewTom

iTrader: (3)

well, first race with the 22sct. med-high bite blue groove outdoor. truck was great, I ran in 17.5 blinky. Iq'd first in my heats, but I started 5th of a whopping field of 13 cars in the amain. I got hacked on the start, crossing the line 9th or 10th and made it all the way up to 6th! my truck was good, but I need to soften up the front suspension. i went in one on the arm, and that helped a bit. but I think I am going to keep with a 4 hole front piston, and try two holes #57 and two holes #56. I may get a front sway bar to try too, and put shims under the front steering rack ball stud. I had absolutely no issues with ball cups though, even with several hard hits and wrecks (*cough* start of the main) I have the traxxas 3643 links should anything go to doodoo. Ran 25/78 blinky 17.5, motor at 40* static na dcoming off in the 130 ish range. I may try gearing up and going down on timing. most around my track are running around 6.9 to 7.3, I am at 7.6.

marco cianfrone

Hi guys, this is my first electric car(22SCT) and i don t know anything about it. I saw few set-up on TLR web and nearly everyone is running the 25 kick angle and 5 caster. I think the kit comes with 30 and 10 caster. What is the different between the two?. I know what i have to buy for the caster but for kick angle 25 do i have to buy just the hinge pin holder or the pivot? For the pivot i can see that everyone is using the alum. one. Is it a must?. What about the gear diff.
I drive nitro and as you can see i don t know much about electric.
Thanks in advance for the help that you are going to give me.

Deja Vu

iTrader: (11)

I keep hearing this and reading this, but to be honest, I don't understand it. The body weighs the same whether it's on a 22SCT, Triple X or SC10 of course. Weight is still distributed down the shock towers like any other chassis. The body posts are even slightly further apart than others typically are. I would think that with a narrow aluminum chassis, the weight would be more centered and CG lower compared to a graphite "wide" chassis. I have seen enough input to know that sway bars on the 22SCT truly improves handling, but I am trying to understand why when sway bars aren't typically used off-road.

I picked mine up this week-end and am in the process of getting it ready. It has sway bars front and rear. I'm only trying to understand why a chassis that, in my mind, shouldn't need sway bars need them?

spider882009

iTrader: (7)

I run the medium sway bays front and back, but I also run the JConcepts body mount supports!!! They made an even bigger difference!!!!!!!!!!!!

Casper

iTrader: (34)

25/5 is typically used for higher bite track conditions so not sure where you will be racing your truck but that will determin what setup you might want to start with. 25/5 setup will have a little more agressive steering which would be good for high bite tracks. 30/10 (stock) is a great setup for a little less steering and better weight transfer to the rear which is better for loose outdoor conditions so it really depends on the track conditions. I run 30/0 on my truck. Lots of choices but just one element in a balanced setup.

You would just need an 25 deg pivot and the spacers. (they all come in the plastic pivot bag) http://www.tlracing.com/Products/Def...ProdID=TLR1051

A lot of guys like a little extra weight up front which is the reason for the alum pivot.

http://www.tlracing.com/Search/Defau...hTerm=pivot+22

Since you get the 30 deg pivot with the kit you don't need to get a different front brace as the 30 deg one works with the 30 or 25/20 block. The 25/20 pivot brace does not work with the 30 deg pivot block though. The braces are marked. I won't go into the details.

Gear diff. The carpet guys tend to like the gear diff the most but this is more for the guy who does not want to do the maintaince on the ball diff. Ball diffs for racing are typically a faster setup as the ball diff works a little better but gear diffs are easier to build and last longer.

IMO all SC trucks should have sway bars. I ran them on my XXX-SCT and I think most SC10's I see should have them. With the tall big body they help a ton with body roll. 2wd buggy and 2wd ST cars are all low enough they don't really need them. At least I have never felt they needed them. As for sway bars almost all 4wd cars run them.

Jokermayhem

iTrader: (1)

So I just ordered the swar bar kit front and rear...so for small indoor clay tracks I'm guessing white sway bars front and rear. So the ends of the sway bars should only stick out of the ball cups 1mm all the way around?