Rear Admiral

iTrader: (1)

17.5 is what we run here (South Australia) in our 27 turn Stock class. They've got good speed (only about a second off the 10.5 turns over a 16 sec lap of our high grip, twisty track) and bags of torque. Not really sure what you'd gain by going for 21T unless it was a class requirement...

Gearing is going to depend on your track - try asking the local quicks what roll-out they're running.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

The pack is not contoured, so yes, I added an additional spacer under the posts.

The weight was for tuning purposes, but it's gone now. I know it's a bit odd to have it mounted there, but I was playing with weight distributions and wanted to try it that way.

Thanks for the compliment!

1101

Hi there. Ive a IFS-R running silvercan motor.
Ive a big problem with the car turning sharply at full acceration, doesnt allways
happen but often enough to make it undriveable at any more than 1/2 power.
May happen once every 2-5 laps. Just driving around the track without hard acceleration is fine.
Car has a center one way (front), could this be a cause??
Any ideas of what to look for, try??

I'm going to try new tyres on the front (they were OK on my other car thou)
Will also try harder springs at back, softer on front & perhaps more front droop.

joe of loath

iTrader: (1)

I had a similar problem, and I found the back end was a little loose, but you could only tell sometimes. I just added an extra degree of rear camber and it became much more stable.

Darkseid

iTrader: (9)

Sounds like you just have oversteer. Try not running the one way. You could also try lengthening your rear camber links so that the rear wont be so prone to coming around on you. Running stiffer springs up front would also help. So would running a stiffer front sway bar or taking off the rear sway bar. But what ever you do, don't put stiffer springs on the back, that will only make the oversteer worse.

The TA05 series of cars always had a ton of steering, even right out of the box, so if your going to add a one-way to the equation, I'd suggest that you only do so if your the type likes a really free rear end. That type of set up is very fast IF its what you like to drive. For everyone else though, and can be a bit tough. The center one-way doesn't have as much effect as a front one-way, but it still can easily add enough extra steering that it will cause unwanted oversteer if the rear of the car isn't set up to handle the extra steering.

Just try some of those suggestions one at a time and eventually you'll get it to where you like it.

1101

hi there,its a bit unusual this one, even my older beat up TA doesnt do this

Its not actually the back coming out,or oversteer, its the front turning sharply at full power, running in a straight line (not when cornering) . I can see it happening if I stand on the track & accelerate towards myself.
I wonder if its the rims touching the upper tie rods?? They run very close to the rim. Or perhaps some issue with the servo-(??)
It happens even running in a straight line & hitting the power. Its a silvercan
stock motor so they really isnt that much acceleration.

bigkoitat

iTrader: (6)

My TA05-IFS-R has the oppisite of what your car has, it has a severe push both on and off power I was fighting it all weekend, any sugestions?

stocker

iTrader: (2)

Try to check and make sure all 4 wheels are rotating freely constantly and nothing is binding up, like the drive shafts. Remove the shocks and make sure the suspension is able to move up and down very freely, also that the plastic ends of the shocks are able to move freely. Check the suspension arms shafts that it is true and straight. Check the camber arms that nothing is loose on both ends.

hope this helps.

bigkoitat

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Stocker I'm currently doing that and checking the diff too, Thank You

Geppetto

iTrader: (35)

When I first built my IFS-R, I mistakenly installed the front "C" carriers backwards (left on right, and right on left). That mixup caused major steering problems.

Foxxrocket

I thought the car handled great, though it was a bit twitchy at times.

encore75

iTrader: (26)

Hi all,

I recently picked up a used TA05R and have officially joined the TA05 cult...er, club.

Quick question...where do you guys tend to go to get parts here in the U.S.? I already know of speedtech, but they don't have all I need (or not have it in stock).

Bonus for any suggestions in the Seattle, WA area.

TIA!

Rear Admiral

iTrader: (1)

Are you running +0 offset wheels? If they are touching the ball caps, then you should be able to see the rub marks.

What type of radio system are you running? Is your reciever mounted right next to the motor? You might be getting some radio interference from the motor. Before I went to 2.4 ghz, I mounted my receiver on top of the servo to keep it out of interference range of the motor (and still do).

I also had a bit of trouble with the car deviating on fast straights - tossed the kit Tamiya servo saver and got a Kimbrough, haven't had a problem since.

Hope this helps.

1101

Ive tried grinding a bevel out of the inside rims, so they clear easily now.
The radio is 2.4G, receiver on top of the servo. Receiver is fine in the other TA.
On closer inspection, where the diff exits the housing & connects to the dogbone/axle, seems to be just slightly touching the upper housing, can even see a little bit of wear on the plastic: so its a full strip down tonight.

If that fails to fix, then its the arduous task of swapping parts between the 2 cars to trace the fault (starting with servo)

thanks for your ideas, I'll look at the servo & servo saver as well.

bigkoitat

iTrader: (6)

I've figured out the majority of my problem, I didn't see the part in the instruction on shaving the chassis where the servo horn hits This made a huge difference!! Also on the steering rack I noticed the balls hitting the rack arms itself, so I c-notched it a little and now I have the same amount of steering as my 416.