STOCK motor forum
#481
Tech Adept
simon k,
have u tried the tribo comm drops. does it really have significant difference compared to other like the orion speedy drops?
if i'm not mistaken, u already bought a motor from big jim, how is it? better than other tuned motors?
have u tried the tribo comm drops. does it really have significant difference compared to other like the orion speedy drops?
if i'm not mistaken, u already bought a motor from big jim, how is it? better than other tuned motors?
#482
The drops are superb on the bushings but the motor must be clean for them to be used on the comm. If you are happy to do that, no problem.
When I got the BJ MVP, the bushings were a bit tight. I used it for 8-12 runs then retrued it and replaced the brushes. It was a rocket and I was very happy. Just one thing let it down....me
When I got the BJ MVP, the bushings were a bit tight. I used it for 8-12 runs then retrued it and replaced the brushes. It was a rocket and I was very happy. Just one thing let it down....me
#483
Simon K
Are you running with the narrow brushes? I'm curious what a difference that makes.
Are you running with the narrow brushes? I'm curious what a difference that makes.
#484
Doesn't get any hotter than a P2K at my home track, while actually being gruntier out of the corners. We know this by scientifically having a few laps of mine and a friends car.
Basically reduces the heat generated by the motor and gives a bit more bottom end.
I have run mine at 6.35 normally and up to 5.68 on an open track with no ill effects. I also run an equivalent to the Red/Green brush spring combo too.
Basically reduces the heat generated by the motor and gives a bit more bottom end.
I have run mine at 6.35 normally and up to 5.68 on an open track with no ill effects. I also run an equivalent to the Red/Green brush spring combo too.
#485
Thanks for the MVP tips!
Hi all!
Thanks for the MVP tips I got some time back, finally got a real track test done last night. I used green springs for both +/-, and used Team Orion's Pro 10/20 laydown brushes. The brushes had the sides shaved as per the diagram posted (using needle files as suggested!).
I ran the motor at the same gearing as previously, and yes, it lost quite a bit of torque, but gained an extremely smooth power curve. I can live with that definitely! Motor came back hot, but the heat was like just about any other motor in my collection.
Running 6.5:1 FDR, I made about 9 mins of run time with 3k cells. Talk about fun! I will probably gear down a tooth or two to gain more infield punch.
Thanks again!
~Alvin
Thanks for the MVP tips I got some time back, finally got a real track test done last night. I used green springs for both +/-, and used Team Orion's Pro 10/20 laydown brushes. The brushes had the sides shaved as per the diagram posted (using needle files as suggested!).
I ran the motor at the same gearing as previously, and yes, it lost quite a bit of torque, but gained an extremely smooth power curve. I can live with that definitely! Motor came back hot, but the heat was like just about any other motor in my collection.
Running 6.5:1 FDR, I made about 9 mins of run time with 3k cells. Talk about fun! I will probably gear down a tooth or two to gain more infield punch.
Thanks again!
~Alvin
#486
Tech Addict
newbie question: How hot is too hot? I have a tc3 with a p2k but have never run it (besides in the basement to be sure the end points were set up etc) is there a temp range for a motor? or a rule of thumb for judgeing?
#487
Racin Rev:
Normally if you can comfortably hold it in your hand after 5 minutes racing, or until the batterys die if your bashing, then it's ok. The exception seems to be the Reedy MVP which gets hot no matter what.
Normally if you can comfortably hold it in your hand after 5 minutes racing, or until the batterys die if your bashing, then it's ok. The exception seems to be the Reedy MVP which gets hot no matter what.
#488
Alvin,
I wouldn't recommend running the motor for 9 minutes, just race for the length of time you would normally(5 min I assume) and stop. Running 9 minutes would almost be the same as two races back-to-back.
Not too good as far as heating up the motor and brushes...
I'd suggest a Red spring on the Positive for that motor, I use the Peak Viper springs(135 deg+, 115deg-) and that works well. I assume their will be an equivalent Orion brush spring available.
I wouldn't recommend running the motor for 9 minutes, just race for the length of time you would normally(5 min I assume) and stop. Running 9 minutes would almost be the same as two races back-to-back.
Not too good as far as heating up the motor and brushes...
I'd suggest a Red spring on the Positive for that motor, I use the Peak Viper springs(135 deg+, 115deg-) and that works well. I assume their will be an equivalent Orion brush spring available.
#489
Simon,
The mvp's my bashing motor At the moment in Singapore though, there aren't any 27T stock races, only open modifieds and closed endbell, 23T races. I like running 23T but since they can't be trued (on a mod lathe) running the 27T is just as good, slightly slower but MUCH excellent run time! So my 23T can be reserved purely for race usage.
Hmm if a 3k cell can get the 27T to go for 9 mins at my gearing, then I could get 2k cells, cut weight and still make time in 27t race
Thanks for the advice on the motor springs - I will definitely try them out the next time I visit the track. I'll let you know on the performance. It seems the MVP with the brushes cut is better at giving high revs than torque - gearing down 2 teeth actually improved spool up of the motor and the top end was not affected much.
I'll try at the same gearing with your spring tip, then I'll try gearing down further. Thanks simon!
~Alvin
The mvp's my bashing motor At the moment in Singapore though, there aren't any 27T stock races, only open modifieds and closed endbell, 23T races. I like running 23T but since they can't be trued (on a mod lathe) running the 27T is just as good, slightly slower but MUCH excellent run time! So my 23T can be reserved purely for race usage.
Hmm if a 3k cell can get the 27T to go for 9 mins at my gearing, then I could get 2k cells, cut weight and still make time in 27t race
Thanks for the advice on the motor springs - I will definitely try them out the next time I visit the track. I'll let you know on the performance. It seems the MVP with the brushes cut is better at giving high revs than torque - gearing down 2 teeth actually improved spool up of the motor and the top end was not affected much.
I'll try at the same gearing with your spring tip, then I'll try gearing down further. Thanks simon!
~Alvin
#491
Regional Moderator
good point GeeToo. You would think they would have the market cornered on that.
#492
What is a good setup for 4 cell 1/12th racing with Black can Blue endbell motors?
#493
Tractionroll
Everyone was running Trinity 4499's with purple positive, red negative at the Carpet Nat's. It's a good combo on that motor.
Everyone was running Trinity 4499's with purple positive, red negative at the Carpet Nat's. It's a good combo on that motor.
#494
I'd guess Tamiya's is more geared to the japanese market, which uses closed endbell 23Ts. They have a few like the Type T and Type R motors. They also have the Sports tuned and Dyna Run Racing (not dyna run Super touring, which is a modified), seems to have the same specs out of the box as the Type T/R but doesn't have the jmrca label. At least mine doesn't.
#495
Regional Moderator
I think Tamiya stop making that motor, the Dyna Run motors. I tried to get one, it's discontinued.
Hey Pyscho - was that combo hard on the comm?
Hey Pyscho - was that combo hard on the comm?