Serpent 710
#7127
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
modifying the clutch weights can cause problems. Especially if the weights are not all exacly the same they will lead to improper engagement and wobbeling of the clutch shoe. That leads to the bearing failure.
now once i have the caliper though, I can modify them to the milimeter and should not have a problem... ? I was told to cut them bisecting the hole where the pins go.
#7128
Tech Fanatic
Waazzzzooooppppp!???
Does anyone know where to buy the SERPENT KAI CONVERSION KIT?
Please post the e-mail addy...
Does anyone know where to buy the SERPENT KAI CONVERSION KIT?
Please post the e-mail addy...
#7129
Originally posted by Profoxcg
i toasted on of the bearings that sits against the trus bearing. i think this may have been the problem. i think i am going to leave then stock (on the pins) and wait for may digital caliper to set the end play corectly.
now once i have the caliper though, I can modify them to the milimeter and should not have a problem... ? I was told to cut them bisecting the hole where the pins go.
i toasted on of the bearings that sits against the trus bearing. i think this may have been the problem. i think i am going to leave then stock (on the pins) and wait for may digital caliper to set the end play corectly.
now once i have the caliper though, I can modify them to the milimeter and should not have a problem... ? I was told to cut them bisecting the hole where the pins go.
#7131
Originally posted by xluis
hello for alls, This the best forum in the wolrd, for the 710. I read all nights. My english is not very good, but i reading...litle and litle...
Well, i a electric driver, i love electric cars, XRAY is the best. But for some circunstancies i change for a gas car, my first touring gas, is of course, a serpent 710. I probe it, and with yours posts i help very much. Now i´m confused with a front roll center, i put de upper arms up, with all the shims down, the roll center is low, ok??, the car turning more and is overturn in the curve, with a lot of grip, no??? and viceversa. Is this correct, or not ?.
Thank you, very much.
LuisC -- Spain --
hello for alls, This the best forum in the wolrd, for the 710. I read all nights. My english is not very good, but i reading...litle and litle...
Well, i a electric driver, i love electric cars, XRAY is the best. But for some circunstancies i change for a gas car, my first touring gas, is of course, a serpent 710. I probe it, and with yours posts i help very much. Now i´m confused with a front roll center, i put de upper arms up, with all the shims down, the roll center is low, ok??, the car turning more and is overturn in the curve, with a lot of grip, no??? and viceversa. Is this correct, or not ?.
Thank you, very much.
LuisC -- Spain --
#7132
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by cyba888
Just out of curiosity what was really wrong with the 705 compared to the 710 in tuning wise? Was it the design or material that they used that makes the car harder to setup or find a sweet spot?
Just out of curiosity what was really wrong with the 705 compared to the 710 in tuning wise? Was it the design or material that they used that makes the car harder to setup or find a sweet spot?
It was a bit more of a challenge to get a perfect "sweet spot" set-up. The car design was based on the Impact 235mm car that made it more challenging to people that really didn't know how to set up a car without a rear camber link.
I still believe the705 car is a great car that still can run with the best of them. Also I think the 705 is alot more durable then the 710 that makes it a very good car!!
#7133
Re: Initial D
Originally posted by Profoxcg
I am using the one that came with the kit
I am using the one that came with the kit
#7134
Originally posted by cyba888
Like D said, "you can learn it the hard way like me"....I dont think I need to learn the hard way, just the best way, take it to someone who is experienced.
Like D said, "you can learn it the hard way like me"....I dont think I need to learn the hard way, just the best way, take it to someone who is experienced.
#7135
Originally posted by cox049
What life span/ duration do you guys get on the centax thrust bearing?
What life span/ duration do you guys get on the centax thrust bearing?
Yes, you need to lube it. I'd recommend the Mugen Super Grease (B0308). It's sticky and last a very long time.
Secondly, shim the end play after the clutch assembly as per Step 8.7 on page 28 of the assembly manual.
Thirdly and most importantly, make sure the larger inner diameter ring (5.2 mm) is placed first nearest to the clutch shoes and the smaller inner diameter (5.0 mm) to the outermost ! This will prevent the thrust bearings from spinning at the same RPM as the engine and toasting your thrust bearings.
When all this is done, you'll run your thrust bearing till your LHS will curse you for not having to change one !
#7136
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
The length of time they last varies with several key things. They require greasing constantly to keep the dirt out. We actually take them out between every 5min qualifier and regrease.
The length of time they last varies with several key things. They require greasing constantly to keep the dirt out. We actually take them out between every 5min qualifier and regrease.
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
The other thing that would blow one after a days running is that the clutch is not shimmed correct. Bad set up of the clutch will have you sticking in new thrust bearings every other run. Make sure the external shims are correct to minimise the amount of wobble on the bell.
The other thing that would blow one after a days running is that the clutch is not shimmed correct. Bad set up of the clutch will have you sticking in new thrust bearings every other run. Make sure the external shims are correct to minimise the amount of wobble on the bell.
#7137
Originally posted by BaxterC
I am wonderring if the guys blowing the thrust bearing have boen the clutch mod or are running the book setup? reason I ask is I want to know if it is the book setup that blows the bearings or the mod?
I am wonderring if the guys blowing the thrust bearing have boen the clutch mod or are running the book setup? reason I ask is I want to know if it is the book setup that blows the bearings or the mod?
#7139
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
I stripped the clutch down and went to a 0.3mm gap instead of the stated 0.7mm and have not changed a thrust bearing since.
I stripped the clutch down and went to a 0.3mm gap instead of the stated 0.7mm and have not changed a thrust bearing since.
#7140
Originally posted by cox049
For the record: I don't have the clutch mod and my shimms were on the loose side... I think I'll set it up a little tighter - closer to .4mm -
For the record: I don't have the clutch mod and my shimms were on the loose side... I think I'll set it up a little tighter - closer to .4mm -
0.4 mm gives very smooth engagement while 0.7 mm will give you very agressive clutch engagement. You may want to tighten the clutch pre-tension nut a little if you use 0.4 mm in order not to bog down the engine with too fast clutch engagement. Take your pick.
Originally posted by cox049
I didn't have a spare and bought a mugen bearing at the track. It looks the same
I didn't have a spare and bought a mugen bearing at the track. It looks the same