Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

The reason the back of the battery strap doesn't have support, is because with a rear motor full battery, you should be using the rear thumbscrew position. The battery strap will go under the chassis support towards the rear.

RacerMike42

iTrader: (1)

I had it like that initially (in the rear thumbscrew position) but the chassis support has that notch in it so it doesnt sit on the battery brace. if the chassis brace didnt have the notch it would be fine.

I removed my CF brace and moved the battery strap to the rear position so you can see what I mean.

rc415sf

U guys saying I did something wrong or not telling u what the problem is does not help. I don't know what the problem is ive built the diff twice going for a third time I've watched the video and followed it step by step. What more is there to it I've been doing rc for 15 years and this diff boggles me. This will be it for me with this car

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

You wont even tell us what the SYMPTOM is... we aren't expecting you to tell us the fix, we are expecting you to tell us what the issue is.

TAMAK

iTrader: (29)

There is no shame in having a local pro build the diff in front of you either. This is such a nice car to just give up on, especially for a "user" dependent issue. I feel that some people over tighten the ball diff during break in. IMO...

If you sell it, I would make sure you state Diff Issues....

Jonny5

iTrader: (19)

Did you replace the clip each time you took the diff apart? The clips are one time use as they lose their tension after being removed. More often than not this is the cause of diff issues, assuming you have everything else built as it should be. Aside from taking it out to re-lube it, I have not touched the diff in my brother's car in over a month and it still feels/works great.

CHIZZLE

iTrader: (37)

Which of these two would you guys recommend? Since they would only be used one time, maybe just the regular steel?

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

im using regular steel.. works perfect.

JoeC

iTrader: (120)

If anyone is interested I have a fully loaded DEx210 that I am going to list for sale this weekend. I bought the Kyosho RB5 Wc to try out as I have the Kyosho Sc-r and love it. The buggy has carbon fiber front and rear towers, aluminum front camber link mount, aluminum toe block, aluminum shock stand off's, extra parts, tires, ect. I can sell rtr w/revtech 17.5, lrp sxx v2, and savox servo or as a roller. Pm if your interested. The buggy has only been raced twice so it is in great shape.

kwilke

iTrader: (172)

joe other than the "bling factor " what makes the kyosho better? dont get me wrong im not hating on kyosho. i love my kyosho mp9 tki2.

JoeC

iTrader: (120)

The Dex210 is pretty good and the RB5 WC may not be any better but alot of the parts for the RB5 are interchangeable with the SC and I already have a ton of parts for the SC. Not to mention that the Kyosho BB shocks are probably the best on the market right now.

ohiofun13

iTrader: (7)

i am interested call me 330-501-6528

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

Ok. The Losi 22 Diff nut holder fits....BUT...the stock screw doesn't go through the hole, and the actual nut is very small.

Does anyone know or could test to see if the Losi Diff screw would fit the 210 diff? If so this should make a good replacent/backup.

I'm in a bind right now because of this. If there are any other options from AE/Losi/HPI/Traxxas that would work it would be awesome to know.

Hoping to race tomorrow morning and need a quick fix.

flame56mx

iTrader: (520)

We all took a hit to our pride the first time building the 210 diff, it's not like any other I have built, BUT once we ironed out the little nuances, it has been the smoothest, and so far one of the longest lasting diff I have built, and I have been building them for a while now. I had my doubts just like you, we all did, but once that thing is on the track it will change your mind..Get the xray clips, or the ones from Fastenal, I have had ZERO issues with mine since I replaced the stock one, and I have reused mine a time or two now..

The 210 diff screw is quiet unique, I wish I could say it could see it working, but I really cant see how. The 22 diff screw is not the most durable part of that car, but I think mostly because it was too long, and most guys used the AE screw and nut..

Autocratic

iTrader: (26)

Flame you have any suggestions as to what I could use to replace the stock diff screw & nut? The stock screw would work, however just needs smaller threads. My tap/die set doesn't go to the required size for the Losi nut.