Losi 8ight building and setup
#8312
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
It was an estimate, but let's see...
new body - 25
chassis - between 75-90
tray (and associated parts)- I dunno, 15?
rear drive - 10
guards (if you want new ones) -, what, another 10?
Tax and shipping? I think that can hit 170.
Thanks for being so constructive.
#8313
Thanks for all the help so far guys one more question, how do you think the rtr 2.0 will stack upwith the race roller 2.0. im pretty sure that the roller is better, but the rtr deal is great. you get everything even a starter box. Its 650 for the race roller and 700 for the rtr. idk it looks like the same with a little mor plastic to me.
#8314
check it out:
http://www.maxamps.com/MA-1600-Receiver-Pack.htm
#8315
Thanks for all the help so far guys one more question, how do you think the rtr 2.0 will stack upwith the race roller 2.0. im pretty sure that the roller is better, but the rtr deal is great. you get everything even a starter box. Its 650 for the race roller and 700 for the rtr. idk it looks like the same with a little mor plastic to me.
#8316
Tech Initiate
engine lag on rev down
I just finished building my 1.0, installed a Novarossi .21, and started the break-in.
My problem is that after I release the throttle trigger the engine starts to rev down in a quick & normal linear manner (just like any other nitro engine I've had), but then it holds the revs for a few seconds (when it reaches 15-20% left to idle speed) and then finally goes down to rest at idle speed. The carb is fully closed by the servo, no binding. So, I believe its something with the mixtures, or the clutch, or an air leak maybe. Why aren't the revs going down all the way to idle speed in a quick linear manner??
Other than that, the engine seems normal. I was running the stock setup of silver/gold springs but the car needed to be revved really high to start moving, so now I have the silver/carbon shoes & gold/green spring setup (haven't tried it yet to see if it engages sooner). About half a tank of heat cycling (about 9 mins runtime). Carb high needle at rich (3.5 turns), haven't touched the low needle yet.
Help please
Thanks
My problem is that after I release the throttle trigger the engine starts to rev down in a quick & normal linear manner (just like any other nitro engine I've had), but then it holds the revs for a few seconds (when it reaches 15-20% left to idle speed) and then finally goes down to rest at idle speed. The carb is fully closed by the servo, no binding. So, I believe its something with the mixtures, or the clutch, or an air leak maybe. Why aren't the revs going down all the way to idle speed in a quick linear manner??
Other than that, the engine seems normal. I was running the stock setup of silver/gold springs but the car needed to be revved really high to start moving, so now I have the silver/carbon shoes & gold/green spring setup (haven't tried it yet to see if it engages sooner). About half a tank of heat cycling (about 9 mins runtime). Carb high needle at rich (3.5 turns), haven't touched the low needle yet.
Help please
Thanks
#8317
Tech Champion
iTrader: (125)
I just finished building my 1.0, installed a Novarossi .21, and started the break-in.
My problem is that after I release the throttle trigger the engine starts to rev down in a quick & normal linear manner (just like any other nitro engine I've had), but then it holds the revs for a few seconds (when it reaches 15-20% left to idle speed) and then finally goes down to rest at idle speed. The carb is fully closed by the servo, no binding. So, I believe its something with the mixtures, or the clutch, or an air leak maybe. Why aren't the revs going down all the way to idle speed in a quick linear manner??
Help please
Thanks
My problem is that after I release the throttle trigger the engine starts to rev down in a quick & normal linear manner (just like any other nitro engine I've had), but then it holds the revs for a few seconds (when it reaches 15-20% left to idle speed) and then finally goes down to rest at idle speed. The carb is fully closed by the servo, no binding. So, I believe its something with the mixtures, or the clutch, or an air leak maybe. Why aren't the revs going down all the way to idle speed in a quick linear manner??
Help please
Thanks
Your HSN is too lean . Bring it back an hour each time until it stops .
#8320
Tech Initiate
I doubt its lean, HSN is at 3.5 turns and bogs when on throttle from stand still, but i'll try richening it a bit and see...nothing to lose.
I've never owned a Nova before but just wondering what the HSN typically would be at when race tuned...give or take?
Kcdzim - I went through 9 mins of heat cycling so far buddy, didn't say I was done but thanks.
thanks guys
I've never owned a Nova before but just wondering what the HSN typically would be at when race tuned...give or take?
Kcdzim - I went through 9 mins of heat cycling so far buddy, didn't say I was done but thanks.
thanks guys
#8321
Tech Master
iTrader: (11)
If it runs okay at speed and bogs from a standing start then it's your LSN that's fat. The run on you described is a classic symptom of an engine that's lean on top and fat on the bottom.
On another note, anyone have any tips on getting the spring posts in when changing clutch shoes? The first 2 are always easy, but when I put in shoe nos. 3 and 4 and it gets crowded, I always have a helluva time getting the spring post lined up and all the way into the hole in the back of the flywheel. Anybody have a tool they use to hold the shoe in place so it's aligned straight and you can get the pin through?
On another note, anyone have any tips on getting the spring posts in when changing clutch shoes? The first 2 are always easy, but when I put in shoe nos. 3 and 4 and it gets crowded, I always have a helluva time getting the spring post lined up and all the way into the hole in the back of the flywheel. Anybody have a tool they use to hold the shoe in place so it's aligned straight and you can get the pin through?
#8323
Tech Champion
iTrader: (7)
If it runs okay at speed and bogs from a standing start then it's your LSN that's fat. The run on you described is a classic symptom of an engine that's lean on top and fat on the bottom.
On another note, anyone have any tips on getting the spring posts in when changing clutch shoes? The first 2 are always easy, but when I put in shoe nos. 3 and 4 and it gets crowded, I always have a helluva time getting the spring post lined up and all the way into the hole in the back of the flywheel. Anybody have a tool they use to hold the shoe in place so it's aligned straight and you can get the pin through?
On another note, anyone have any tips on getting the spring posts in when changing clutch shoes? The first 2 are always easy, but when I put in shoe nos. 3 and 4 and it gets crowded, I always have a helluva time getting the spring post lined up and all the way into the hole in the back of the flywheel. Anybody have a tool they use to hold the shoe in place so it's aligned straight and you can get the pin through?
The clutch spring holds the shoe out of alignment slightly with the rear hole. After pressing the shoe agains the flywheel you can look through and see where you need to be with the alignment.
#8324
i have a question about the eight stock clutch i put enough washers where there is just a tick of play and it still spins freely ,do i need to have more play so the bearings will last im thinking since that the bearings are larger then most clutch bearings that it would be fine and last long
#8325
Guest
1.0 clutch
Hey tc5 man I put my clutch together as the book shows. I think it goes great! And never burned up a set of bearings.