Integra

iTrader: (8)

you are looking for anything from .3-.5mm worth of end play

tc5 man

i did follow the what the book said they only thing i did diffrent was add a extra washer on the front side of the clutch bell i dint like the play it had.i did use a little bigger washers in the frount so i guess it should be fine.

tc5 man

im not sure if it is 3 mm of play i tofhink about 2 mm not sure but it just a tick of play and i spins freely still

Integra

iTrader: (8)

.3- .5mm.... Not 3mm Use a .3 shim to check if its too tight once assembled....the .3 shim should be able to walk up and down Just a hair with the corner wedged into the shim stack.

tc5 man

oh ok i dint measure the shims i put on but there bigger then the shim that came with the eight i guess i lost one of them somewhere my guess whould be about 2- amount of play it is just a hair of play though and it spins freely

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

The shims shown in the manual are just a starting point. Every engine will need to be shimmed differently. I've even had to change the shimming on the same engine after switching clutch nuts. You want to be sure that you have a small amount of play (about 0.3 to 0.5 mm like Integra said) and that it's shimmed forward far enough that the clutch bell doesn't hit the flywheel.

warpig

iTrader: (7)

+1

Spironi

iTrader: (1)

I just picked up a used 8ight 1.0 roller from a fellow at the local track. I am planning on doing a full tear down and rebuild here just as soon as I have time to work on the car I have been doing a bit of reading to see whats what. 500+ pages on this thread alone! Man there is a lot of info out there

If anybody has any tips on things to look for during the tear down and rebuild it would be much appreciated. Anything particularly prone to wear that probably needs replacing, or anything that just should be replaced outright

Thanks in advance. This looks like a great car.

Spiro

cjtamu

iTrader: (11)

It is a great car. I would look at the diffs first. On the inside of the diff cups where the shafts for the planetary gears sit look to see if there's notching. If there is, replace with the HD diff housing, which has metal inserts. If you already have the HD cups (you can tell 'cause it will have inserts) you should be okay. Look at the sun gear and planetary gears and make sure they're not worn or chipped. Check the diff outdrive cups (where the "T" part of the CVD fits in) and make sure they're not notched.

Check the outer hinge pins and be sure they're not bent. If they are, replace with either the 8ight 2.0 pins or the M2C racing pins. You'll have to drill the A-arms a little but it's worth it. Check the front and rear aluminum toe blocks and make sure they're not worn where the inner hinge pins go through. Make sure the plastic caps that hold the hinge pins in place are intact.

Check clutch shoes and springs, replace if needed (shoes should meaure 23.4 mm or more from tip to tip across the flywheel). There's a pic on this thread somewhere showing you where to measure. You'll get different opinions, but I like the KHZ 7075 aluminum shoes. Some run Dynamite, M2C, etc. and like them too.

Remove and re-Loctite the set screws that hold the center CVD's to the diff output shaft. The front one works loose no matter what LOL. Get some big heat shrink and heat shrink around the outside of the CVD so that if the screw works loose the pin doesn't fall out. Check the screw after every few runs, you can get to it from the top side of the car.

If you're going completely through the car, I'd replace every bearing in it unless I knew for sure that the bearings were new. Avid should have a complete kit for the car, probably run you $35 or so. Rebuild the shocks unless you know it's been done recently. Be sure to Loctite the screw that holds the shock piston onto the shaft and let it cure a couple of hours before you refill. Check for anything bent (shock shafts, shock standoffs, etc.) and replace.

warpig

iTrader: (7)

Losi makes the part to go over the CV joint now. Part # A3537

Spironi

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the detailed breakdown. I will be sure to check these things as I go through the car.

I failed to mention, but the intent is actually to use this roller for an electric conversion. Not that that makes much difference for the general car maintenance and checking the parts that might cause trouble. I just thought I would mention it

Thanks again. Any further thoughts/suggestions are of course welcome. I still have a few hundred more pages to read


Spiro

tc5 man

did u guys cut some coils down on the throttle spring cause i thinks its to long
and i alredy try to shoten the ball cup and i have to push in the carb to snap it in place i alredy center the servo and try to put on the collar wheres there is a gap and all it does is cause binding in the servo a buzzing noise

tc5 man

and i have to compess the spring to line it up with the carb to snap it on,and why is there only one collar for the throttle it seems easier with one by the ball cup too

RockinRo

I have a DE skid plate on the rear of my 1.0, do I measure the ride height from the skid plate or do I subtract 2mm to compensate so that I have my measurement from the actual chassis to ground?

thanks

Integra

iTrader: (8)

measure on the little tabs that stick out on the sides and for the front measure Just behind the kick up.