Xray T1
#4546
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by RCInfinity
I still use the stock grease that came in the syringe. I hadn't had any problems with it, in fact I use it sparingly. Devin, why would you switch to another type of grease?
I still use the stock grease that came in the syringe. I hadn't had any problems with it, in fact I use it sparingly. Devin, why would you switch to another type of grease?
#4547
Originally posted by Devin
Cause I ran out and never bought more. I have the associated grease lying around already.... Call me lazy
Cause I ran out and never bought more. I have the associated grease lying around already.... Call me lazy
Nice job again pulling that Win with 20 cars!
Jimmy Fukuyama
#4549
Originally posted by Devin
My difs are as smooth as Neil's bottom with the associated grease. lol.
Thanks Jimmy...have your brother give me a ring when he gets the chance.
My difs are as smooth as Neil's bottom with the associated grease. lol.
Thanks Jimmy...have your brother give me a ring when he gets the chance.
#4550
How are you guys gearing you XRay with the low ratio pulley on the car? I will be running a 8x2 on Carpet with Foams. Large Track kind of like Snowbirds. 125 tooth spur
Thanks
Mike Webb
Thanks
Mike Webb
#4551
Shock ?
Do any of you have shock building tips? The manual says the shock shaft when compressed should not extend out on its own. I can not get mine to stop extending by theirself.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#4552
Tech Regular
Originally posted by rayhuang
For me in and my testing-I always use these simple rules and it works for me every time.
TIghter front diff for more on-power steering out of corner. Might hurt turn in somewhat. Car feels very direct, but may be harder to be consistent from corner to corner, but FAST. Yu can jump on throttle sooner.
Looser rear diff for more aggressive turn in, might hurt acceleration (speed out of corner) just a tad.I dont stray away from those principles because thats the extent of my testing and experimenting.
I would always try to start with both diffs the same tightness (Well-as cose as you can feel), tight enough to not slip-but not locked.
If car pushes on exit-tighten that front diff. if car is lazy turning in-loosen rear diff. Or a combination of the two.
ALSO-and I thnk this is the key to testing-dont go battery pack to battery pack when doing this type of changes. RUn 5 or 6 laps-come right in-make the change and go right back out. Try and drive as consistent as you can.
For me in and my testing-I always use these simple rules and it works for me every time.
TIghter front diff for more on-power steering out of corner. Might hurt turn in somewhat. Car feels very direct, but may be harder to be consistent from corner to corner, but FAST. Yu can jump on throttle sooner.
Looser rear diff for more aggressive turn in, might hurt acceleration (speed out of corner) just a tad.I dont stray away from those principles because thats the extent of my testing and experimenting.
I would always try to start with both diffs the same tightness (Well-as cose as you can feel), tight enough to not slip-but not locked.
If car pushes on exit-tighten that front diff. if car is lazy turning in-loosen rear diff. Or a combination of the two.
ALSO-and I thnk this is the key to testing-dont go battery pack to battery pack when doing this type of changes. RUn 5 or 6 laps-come right in-make the change and go right back out. Try and drive as consistent as you can.
This was what i was looking for ..by the way does anyone knows what the difference between sorex inserts i.e type A/type B/type C??
#4554
I build my shocks so that on its rebound, it stops just as it is fully extended out. Oh, BTW, be sure all the shocks are the same length.
#4555
Tech Regular
regarding leaky xray shocks..i've read guys recommending to switch to GS or HPI shock bladder..currently i cant find any of those and wondering if anyone tried using Rayspeed or Kose shock bladders
#4556
So the manual is not correct? The shocks should rebound, unlike the manual saying they should not? If this is correct and they should rebound then my shocks work fine.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#4557
Originally posted by fReShJiVe
regarding leaky xray shocks..i've read guys recommending to switch to GS or HPI shock bladder..currently i cant find any of those and wondering if anyone tried using Rayspeed or Kose shock bladders
regarding leaky xray shocks..i've read guys recommending to switch to GS or HPI shock bladder..currently i cant find any of those and wondering if anyone tried using Rayspeed or Kose shock bladders
#4558
Tech Initiate
On the matter of shock rebound.
A quick tip on shock building, I always do my Xray shocks this way and they come out nice and even every time.
Once you've filled the body and bled the air out put a 4mm caster clip on the shock shaft, push the shaft in up to the clip then just screw the cap on. Get's a nice smooth rebound with no resistence at the top of the stroke plus you know you're rebuilding your shocks exactly the same way everytime.
//Stu
A quick tip on shock building, I always do my Xray shocks this way and they come out nice and even every time.
Once you've filled the body and bled the air out put a 4mm caster clip on the shock shaft, push the shaft in up to the clip then just screw the cap on. Get's a nice smooth rebound with no resistence at the top of the stroke plus you know you're rebuilding your shocks exactly the same way everytime.
//Stu