Team Corally RDX Touring Car
10-03-2006, 04:31 PM
#9256
I have 2 questions for Jason E.
1. On your 05 IIC set up you used the 3.9 chassis correct? How much difference would there be if using the carpet spec 3.4 chassis.
2. How much difference will there be running a front diff instead of the spool?
Thanks mike
1. On your 05 IIC set up you used the 3.9 chassis correct? How much difference would there be if using the carpet spec 3.4 chassis.
2. How much difference will there be running a front diff instead of the spool?
Thanks mike
10-03-2006, 06:07 PM
#9258
Originally Posted by mdwaeracer
Apex.
thr parts list shows.9 for the pistons
alos the hpi spring rate is red22.4 pink18.0 from my pro4 manual seem to fit fine on the rdx
thr parts list shows.9 for the pistons
alos the hpi spring rate is red22.4 pink18.0 from my pro4 manual seem to fit fine on the rdx
Who knows...http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/RDX.htm
10-03-2006, 07:40 PM
#9259
Originally Posted by edseb
The kit comes standard with low roll center blocks (or low hingpin adjusters) and the aftermarket ones are the ultra low roll center blocks. As the name implies , they adjust the roll center of the car. It is really fine adjustment option.
Actually, the stock ones are "roll center blocks". The option 79121 blocks are "low roll center blocks" per the header card on the bag. Nothing major but the "ultra low" term was probably coined by Rob.
Jeff
10-03-2006, 07:42 PM
#9260
Originally Posted by FT_TC3Racer
Let me rephrase my question. How can I tell the two apart. I am wondering cause I think this car has the ultra low ones.
Jeff
10-03-2006, 07:44 PM
#9261
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Any word yet? I am looking at using a sway with the new arms all around.
Jeff
10-03-2006, 07:47 PM
#9262
Originally Posted by Apex
Anyone know what shock pistons come in the US Spec RDX Kit?
Jeff
10-03-2006, 07:50 PM
#9263
Originally Posted by Apex
Yea, I read that in the manual, but on the U.S. Corally site it says the kit contains 1.3mm pistons. That's why I'm a little confused Who knows...
http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/RDX.htm
Who knows...http://www.corallyusa.com/2005/RDX.htm
Jeff
10-03-2006, 07:52 PM
#9264
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
Yo Carl, hope Saturday night treated you alright. haha.
Actually, the stock ones are "roll center blocks". The option 79121 blocks are "low roll center blocks" per the header card on the bag. Nothing major but the "ultra low" term was probably coined by Rob.
Jeff
Actually, the stock ones are "roll center blocks". The option 79121 blocks are "low roll center blocks" per the header card on the bag. Nothing major but the "ultra low" term was probably coined by Rob.
Jeff
Saturday was the worst I've been in years. The shots caught up to me, ouch. Anyway, thanks for the clarification.
10-03-2006, 10:52 PM
#9265
I really like the new topdeck. It makes it a bit harder to get at the pinion gear and motor screws, but that's okay. The car seemed a lot more consistent from side to side, and they weren't kidding about the tire wear being more even. My problems with foams getting worn more quickly from one side to the other didn't happen tonight. The car felt better than it ever has before.
10-04-2006, 03:02 AM
#9266
Is anyone running rubber tire on carpet with the new arms? I swapped my foam set up to try a rubber tire set up and the CS27 premounts rub the front arm at the front outer corner. Its not too bad so I just dremeled the offending material on the arm away but just wanted to see if I might be missing something. Also while I am thinking about it . . .I tried to copy ertrachter's set up and couldn't understand how 7mm was to be understood. I tried setting it to 7 mm on the AE gauge, and then again on HUDY dropp blocks and each left me with lowered ride height and no droop. Is the 7mm just referring to 2mm of upward travel from ride height ? (IE the ride height is set at 5 mm and then you want 2 mm of uptravel like in foam racing. Is thios where the 7 mm comes from . . .5 + 2 = 7? )
How crucial is it that I remove the lowered shock tower for carpet racing?
Is a 2 hole tamiya piston with 50 wt oil any different than a 3 hole tamiya piston with 60 wt oil?
Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks for all your support in here fellas! Id be in a world of ignorance if not for your insight and wisdom.
How crucial is it that I remove the lowered shock tower for carpet racing?
Is a 2 hole tamiya piston with 50 wt oil any different than a 3 hole tamiya piston with 60 wt oil?
Inquiring minds want to know. Thanks for all your support in here fellas! Id be in a world of ignorance if not for your insight and wisdom.
10-04-2006, 03:48 AM
#9267
7mm comes from a 5mm ride height with 2mm of lift.
10-04-2006, 03:50 AM
#9268
I run rubber tires both takeoff cs22 and RP24 they both rub the front arms, i run the 75% hard original arms. ITs annoying for sure.
The 7mm is the measured height of the chassis at full shocke extensionjust before the tires leave the ground. I say scrap the term droop toss the blocks and just refure to it as uptravel... ITs 100% universal for all cars. With droop all the guages differ and measureing points on the car are differnet. I use my droop blocks to set the 4 corners the same left to right then use ride height guages to set ride and droop i mean uptravel
IF that car runs 5mm ride height then he has 2mm uptravel, or 6mm ride and 1mm uptravel.
Not sure about the shock tower but if your running rubber and lower tower you may have a hard time getting your ride height down low. I know on my regular towers i find it hard to run low in some of the shock tower locations. I can imagin the lower tower would be worse(perfect for small foams though)
PS any comments on my wheelbase questions from earlier guys???
The 7mm is the measured height of the chassis at full shocke extensionjust before the tires leave the ground. I say scrap the term droop toss the blocks and just refure to it as uptravel... ITs 100% universal for all cars. With droop all the guages differ and measureing points on the car are differnet. I use my droop blocks to set the 4 corners the same left to right then use ride height guages to set ride and droop i mean uptravel
IF that car runs 5mm ride height then he has 2mm uptravel, or 6mm ride and 1mm uptravel.
Not sure about the shock tower but if your running rubber and lower tower you may have a hard time getting your ride height down low. I know on my regular towers i find it hard to run low in some of the shock tower locations. I can imagin the lower tower would be worse(perfect for small foams though)
PS any comments on my wheelbase questions from earlier guys???
10-04-2006, 03:53 AM
#9269
Originally Posted by Jeff Brown
The pistons were a running change to the kits about a year ago. I guess it wasn't updated in the manual but we do not make them.
Jeff
Jeff
10-04-2006, 04:33 AM
#9270
Originally Posted by Joel Lagace
I run rubber tires both takeoff cs22 and RP24 they both rub the front arms, i run the 75% hard original arms. ITs annoying for sure.
I've no problem with rubbing rims and I also use the "old" arms. I also ran with different kind of rims/tires. Like premounts CS27's and SSA's, Orion rims (with CS22's) and a couple more.
About the wheelbase, you're thinking too much!
It's excually pretty easy. You just have to take the front and rear suspension seperate.
The "mid" position, if there's one shim on both sides of the arm, this is the same for the front and rear.
The "short" position (the word already says it) is there for a shorter wheelbase. For the front this means you have to add both shims in front of the arm. For the "short" position on the rear end you have got to add both shims behind the arms to shorten the wheelbase. For the "long" position it's the same, only vice versa.
Last edited by Thraex; 10-04-2006 at 04:49 AM.