barnacle

iTrader: (9)

Don't use the front tensioner location on the topdeck, the belt can wedge between the post and pulley causing it to flip or break. I think it is because of the close location to the diff pulley.

I had to shim the tensioner pulley to line the belt up properly.

RC_Woody

Ok guys, I will post a pic tonight and see if anybody can see anything.

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

You can also take the plastic pulley right off and have the belt run on the bearings... this eliminates the risk of belts getting caught. I've been running mine like that since I got the car and no troubles there.

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

How are your front bulkheads - they maybe bent causing the diff to caulk to one side. Pull them off and check them on a flat surface. You may want to check to ensure that your bearing inserts (in the bulkheads) are not opposite each other (one in the upper position, one in the lower position).

seaball

iTrader: (9)

caulk and balls?

barnacle

iTrader: (9)

He said balls!

or8ital

iTrader: (38)

Gee no wonder you have so many posts. Between making fun of peoples typing, bumping old threads about lipos, and teaching people how to search... How do you have any time left in the day?

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

RC_W
give us the pics ......intersting..dilemna you have there..

it's probably something really small.

ok..guys....put your RDX capes on....

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I wear an RDX mask... but only to cover that stupid XRay tattoo I got when I was young and drunk. Those guys are assholes.

wide_mouth_frog

iTrader: (1)

Just wondered if anyone can help.......

Im racing on a tight indoor track on Vtec24r tyres, (27t stock)


REAR
17lb
40w
2nd hole in on shock mount
kit camber possitions apart from on hub wher im on the outer
1.9 roll bar
2 degrees toe in

FRONT
19lb
60
3rd hole in on shock mount
kit camber possitions
1.9 roll bar
kick up

the car seems pretty well planted (enough to win) but on fast hairpins the front seems to bottom out on the chassis, i went up to 22lb but it still does it, other than that when the grip comes up the rear end is just was to planted for me, i need to free it up slightly but with out wrecking the rest of the handling... i thought maybe raise the inner rear camber link to the top row?

If anyone has any better suggestions, i would like to hear them

Thanks

olhipster1

iTrader: (102)

Syndrome...TMI on your lyfstyle....
j/k

having a problem understanding droop...
is having more droop on the gauge = to a higher number 6
or the opposite more droop = 1

I'm still using my ride height gauge to adjust droop, usually 1.5 or 2 above ride height...I haven't used the droop gauge yet.

I know silly question.....for some reason I cant get it in my brain waves...here my yellow bus to pick me up....helmet please...

RC_Woody

Interesting statement I'm not sure I understand. Are you talking about the little black inserts that set right in the bulkhead and hold the bearings?

Don't they only fit in one way?(because of the notches)?
and why would one be in the upper position and one in the lower position? that doesn't make any sense to me... can you explain?

(I will post pics when I get home tonight)
Woody

RC_Woody

More droop means lower the number on a droop gauge.

I think of it this way - if you have 0 or no droop your tires will lift instantly measuring up travel. To Do this you have raise the arms with the droop screw right? So on a droop gauge that would make the numbers go higher the less "droop" you put in your car.

What you are talking about measuring 1.5 or 2 above ride height is called "Up Travel" most of the guys at our track do it this way.

Woody

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

I believe the diffs can be mounted high or low by rotating the bearing holders in the bulkheads. I imagine it's possible to have one up and one down, but it seems like it would be very apparent. It's worth checking, though, just to be certain. Pretty much everybody runs them in the down position.

I've been running the RDX for two years now, and it's been through some brutal accidents in its time. I've bent bulkheads, broken arms, bumper braces, bumpers, shock towers, steering knuckles, etc. Never, though, have I ever flipped a belt. It seems like there's gotta be something wrote causing it to happen so easily.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Droop is a tough one for people to understand. I prefer to use uptravel. Slide a ride height gauge under one end of your car. Lets say it reads 5mm, which would be your ride height. Then, hold down the wheels at that end of the car, and pull the suspension up as much as you can until it bottoms out, then slide the ride height gauge under your car again while holding the suspension in its upmost position. The difference between that measurement and your ride height is your uptravel. Lots of guys use that instead of droop since it's a more universal and consistent way to measure and express that particular setting. It's essentially two different ways of measuring and explaining the same variable in your car's setup.

Almost every foam/carpet setup I've seen uses 2MM of uptravel at each end of the car. It's a VERY powerful adjustment, so it's good to make sure you've got it right.