compaq888

I know that the ntc3 is fast due to it's shaft design, but in order to gain something you have to lose something, the ntc3 is a little bit fragile, but it is fast so that means you have to be a good driver to stay off the walls and the ntc3 will be fine, on the other hand the v one r is built strong but it loses speed because it's heavy and if you put like the s3 in the v one r you'll be fine, it's all up to the driver

Boomer

Compaq - any car is going to be fragile if it is used against the boards, V1R, Serpent or AE. If you want to preach the V1R, go to that thread. This thread is for information and discussion regarding the NTC3, not the V1R.

If you want breakage stories about the V1R, I can give them. . .I have seen front arms break, shock towers break. . .by the way, that's normal on any car that hits a wall. Yokomo, Impulse, whatever. If they're made of graphite or fiber, they're gonna break; if they're made of aluminum (or aluminium for y'all across the pond) they're gonna bend (and I've seen those break too).

If you want stories about growing pains. . .bad tanks, etc.. . .well, the AE's is far better than the GT-4 tanks which actually leaked and broke, without any assistance. . . In short - every car has growth pains. The NTC-3 is the newest car on the block and thus is going to show them now.

compaq888

i am discussin the ntc3, and getting info, i'm saying that cars have weaknesses and strenths too

hooked_on

iTrader: (1)

People,

I have finished the car and was able to give it a run today. To be honest i am over the moon with the way it went straight out of the box . The speed of the car is unreal and it is hanging on nicely too for a almost stock setup. But am wanting some imput with fine tuning the setup a little more to my liking.

My setup is as follows:

frnt:

Castor clips all to the rear?????
2 degrees of camber
0 toe
Copper springs
50wt shock oil
ackerman standard
no anti roll bar
droop = 4mm
ride height = 5mm
top shock position (inner)
bottom shock position (outer)

rear:

2 degrees of camber
3 degrees of toes in on each side
10wt shock oil
gold springs
top shock position (inneer)
bottom shock position (outer)
droop=3mm
ride height = 5mm

other:

Standard track
standard clutch and clutch spring


so what i found was the rear was taily under heavy braking and was unstable under accelation over bumps? any suggestions?

Look forward to hearing from yous shortly?

hooked_on

iTrader: (1)

also the diffs are:

frnt: -1/4
rear: -5/8

I also have some questions in the "Richey Performance" thread regarding the fuel tank mods.......

compaq888

dennis is working on improving the tank, but associated said that they are too improving the fuel tank

rod_b

Well, first off I would think that 10wt oil in the rear is way, way, way too light. I would use no less than 40wt. I actually run 60wt Front - 50wt Rear. The gold spring is too strong for oil. That's why you may be experiencing bouncing on the bumpy track. About the rear being "taily" under heavy braking, do you mean the tail gets loose or wiggles? If so, then I would go to 4 or 5mm droop in the rear. This decreases the amount of weight that's transferred to the front when braking. Keeping weight on the rear helps stability but may make the car push. Good luck

Boomer

Hooked On - are you running foams or rubbers? For rubber I find the stock setup works about as well as anything - it is pretty much the best balanced setup there is. For foams, it is too soft. I used Barry Baker's foam setup as a great base to start from.

In any case -

Front - sounds pretty good.

Rear - as rod said, 10 wt is way too light an oil. pretty much any spring you use will overpower the oil and leave you bouncy. Bring it up to 40-50. I think I am using 40 right now with Red.

3 degrees toe-in will scrub speed and take away from your rear's ability to turn. 2 degrees is usually the max (and standard) toe-in for the rear.

Both of these should take away some of the "Taily" feel (rear lifts too quickly and too much under braking) and will stabilize your on-power acceleration (too much weight shift to the rear too quickly) - especially the oil. You are shifting weight too quickly because of the 10wt oil.

Try it and let us know!

Btw, link to Barry's foam setup - RCCar San Jose - Barry Baker

Boomer

Yeah, I think that most of the tank mods have revolved around putting the pressure nipple in the lid - that's what I saw that AE is doing.

My only problem, when I tried it, was that it seemed to blow the tank lid open under high acceleration. I went back to the stock one and it worked fine. So, I am going to try and stiffen the spring and try it again.

bbntc3

Since you guys are on the fuel tank issue, heres one you might want to check into. Anybody seen the new tank for the RC10GT RTR yet? It has a black different style lid with the fitting made into the lid. I saw one back before the NTC3 even came out, so Ae has been working with the tank probs. for sometime now. Don't know the part # or if the mt holes are the same but worth the time to check into, if the mts are diff maybe just change the lid, I also was told that the hpi lid is a perfect fit but not sure on that one. I use the serpent tank and redrilled the mt. holes but it is kinda flemsy and in a hard hit into the board or hit from behind it sometimes will come out of the mts, but it was a diffently the ticket! Tunes perfect and no air bubbles, double the run time!

Boomer

I definitely have a fluke car/motor then. . . and glad of it!!!

At the Norrca Nats, on a 20 minute main I only needed to pit once (although I did pit the required 4 times) - the other three times my pit guy basically just splash-n-go'd me, I was over 2/3 of a tank each time. And I'm runnin rich!

bbntc3

Thats wild Boomr, I'd keep it too, you must be one of the chosen few!!!!!!!!!!
I use the RBx12turbo 5 port and it would hardly even run until I did the tank change!

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

I am not racing for another few weeks, but I have arranged to try some CRC front tires!!! Thanks for the tip on them. I hope they feel just like the GRP front compound tires!!! Those are my favorite right now!!!

bbntc3

Ray: you also might want to try a 2114 CRC it's a dual compound with the outer edge being harder, similar to a plaid I think.

rayhuang

iTrader: (5)

Hello everyone,

I need some feedback

I would like to know how many of you would be willing to buy a complete kit that eliminates the compression of the Nitro TC3 REAR TOE LINKS. No more tapping the board with the front wheel, car rotates into board and shortens the rear toe link-effectively ruining your qualifier or main!!!

The kit will include:

-Two special 2-degree rear toe links that are solid, but adjustable in a unique design. Simple and effective-the way it should be.

-Two RPM ball cups.

-Spacers to change toe from 2 degrees to 3.5 degrees and anywhere inbetween (Specifications may change on this).

-Steel Screw to pre-thread ball cups to ease assembly (Like Losi car kits).

-Full assembly and and toe change instructions.

I cannot post a picture yet because my partner and I are incurring a certain amount of cost to design, prototype, test, manufacture, inventory and market these special rear toe links!!! So we dont want to be copycated before we make it to market!!!

Although it is dangerous to speculate on dates-I would think 5-weeks from today is a realistic amount of time to see some product available for sale. Prices have not been set as all costs have not been incurred.

Ray Huang