TC3 Forum
#2746
It's also 25 bucks plus shipping! Ouch!
As we said a few pages back (yeah, I know, a LOT of pages in this thread) just pull the diff balls, space the "nut" side a bit (to keep the little white t-nut thing from breaking) and then tighten it down all the way. costs nothing, if you put the balls back in, you are back to a normal diff. . .use a little locktite on the nut if you want to keep it permanently locked (I have one dedicated that way).
Personally, I think that's better than spending extra dinero on one.
As we said a few pages back (yeah, I know, a LOT of pages in this thread) just pull the diff balls, space the "nut" side a bit (to keep the little white t-nut thing from breaking) and then tighten it down all the way. costs nothing, if you put the balls back in, you are back to a normal diff. . .use a little locktite on the nut if you want to keep it permanently locked (I have one dedicated that way).
Personally, I think that's better than spending extra dinero on one.
#2747
Tech Apprentice
Losi rear hubs
Hi guys a few questions about the losi hubs when running them on at tc3!
1.Are they a direct fit or do you have to make a new hole for the tie rod?
2.I was reading that cyrul runs them but has them on backwards,any idea why?
3.Basically running them to get 1 degree or 1/2 degree toe-in depending which hubs you have on..any other advantages?
thnks
1.Are they a direct fit or do you have to make a new hole for the tie rod?
2.I was reading that cyrul runs them but has them on backwards,any idea why?
3.Basically running them to get 1 degree or 1/2 degree toe-in depending which hubs you have on..any other advantages?
thnks
#2750
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Losi rear hubs
TRL: If you follow Cyril's set ups for his TC3. You need to see what all josh does to his car and why.
1) He replaces the "R Block" with a "F block" in the rear.
Plus he adds the R+2-0 block.
Basically it takes all the toe angle out of the arms.
2) Then josh uses the losi hubs to put what ever degree of toe he wants back in.
On carpet w/ foams, you only need about 1 to 2 degrees for stock class.
One other thing I noticed about his set ups.
Josh removes about .030 off the top of the hub carriers.
It clears the wheels and keeps the camber link level.
That's all I can add for now.
I know there are other forums in which you can get some good info for TC3's and anyone racing the Cleveland Indoor Champs.
Hope this helps.
Tracy
1) He replaces the "R Block" with a "F block" in the rear.
Plus he adds the R+2-0 block.
Basically it takes all the toe angle out of the arms.
2) Then josh uses the losi hubs to put what ever degree of toe he wants back in.
On carpet w/ foams, you only need about 1 to 2 degrees for stock class.
One other thing I noticed about his set ups.
Josh removes about .030 off the top of the hub carriers.
It clears the wheels and keeps the camber link level.
That's all I can add for now.
I know there are other forums in which you can get some good info for TC3's and anyone racing the Cleveland Indoor Champs.
Hope this helps.
Tracy
#2752
Tech Apprentice
Losi rear hubs
Thanks for the help guys!!
doorman are you sure its the 2+0 block and not the 3+0 block..thought i read 3+0???
The only thing i'am still confused on is why backwards sometimes does running 1 degree hubs on backwards give you something other then 1 degree toe?
thks again
doorman are you sure its the 2+0 block and not the 3+0 block..thought i read 3+0???
The only thing i'am still confused on is why backwards sometimes does running 1 degree hubs on backwards give you something other then 1 degree toe?
thks again
#2753
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
TRL, What I did was to take the "F- block" and match it with what ever rear block that lined up both sets of holes so they were parallel. (sp-?) I know Josh is always trying different stuff with his car. Josh did mention that he used a R+3-0 block.
Try it and see how it lines up.
As for the Losi hubs, if you install it the way they suggest, you will get the added toe in. If you mount them backwards, they take out that amount. The holes are drilled at an angle.
Hope this helps.
Tracy
Try it and see how it lines up.
As for the Losi hubs, if you install it the way they suggest, you will get the added toe in. If you mount them backwards, they take out that amount. The holes are drilled at an angle.
Hope this helps.
Tracy
#2754
rear diff ????
ok. i am needing a rear diff, and i am woundering . if i should just get the light weight diff kit , or solid rear axle, or what should i do ? i run cvd's aluminum.. thanks for the help. and info...
#2755
Re: rear diff ????
Originally posted by gator
ok. i am needing a rear diff, and i am woundering . if i should just get the light weight diff kit , or solid rear axle, or what should i do ? i run cvd's aluminum.. thanks for the help. and info...
ok. i am needing a rear diff, and i am woundering . if i should just get the light weight diff kit , or solid rear axle, or what should i do ? i run cvd's aluminum.. thanks for the help. and info...
#2756
Tech Apprentice
solid diffs
I was wondering if anyone can tell if a solid diff is good for foam tires on carpet.
#2757
Re: Re: rear diff ????
Originally posted by Corse-R
The solid axle of the NTC3 cannot fit on the TC3 (a simple matter of width of the outdrives). In this case, the answer is straight, get a lightweight (plastic diff), no matter you run (stock or mod) the plastic outdrives withstand anything you bolt on your TC3 (well... for sure cannot whitstand a 14 cell 6 turn mod, FYI ).
The solid axle of the NTC3 cannot fit on the TC3 (a simple matter of width of the outdrives). In this case, the answer is straight, get a lightweight (plastic diff), no matter you run (stock or mod) the plastic outdrives withstand anything you bolt on your TC3 (well... for sure cannot whitstand a 14 cell 6 turn mod, FYI ).
thanks , i appreciate the help. i am going to get the light diff kit then...
#2758
hey guys went to drop in one of my extra diffs and the bearings would not sit down in the seats in the chassis. the bearings are spaced outward to far. i measured my extradiff that i was putting in and it was about .020" longer, so theres the reason but im not sure why its longer. also on this diff the ring gear can spin when both out drives are held. i have no clue whats wrong with this diff. i was up late trying new balls, rings, outdrives and have no clue about either of these 2 problems. any help world be appreciated.thanks
#2759
doesn't a solid axle only work best with foam tires ?
#2760
spaz456
check the bearings inside the diff. there are 2 different bearing sets. The ones for the steel diff are a little wider. that will keep the diff from being put together right.