Jammin X1 - so close yet so far
#556
Tech Master
iTrader: (37)
Re: PRO'S AND CON'S
Originally posted by FREAKAH
Some of you may say that I should give it a chance(as my freinds say) but with a child on the way, I would like to spend less time wrenching to fix problems when I get home so I can spend more time with the family.
Thanks!
Some of you may say that I should give it a chance(as my freinds say) but with a child on the way, I would like to spend less time wrenching to fix problems when I get home so I can spend more time with the family.
Thanks!
hmmmm............ so i guess you finally going install the front universals on your mtx3. it must have popped out at least twice during our championships.
honestly, the some of the problems you mentioned are one time fixes. do the degani shock trick, done. replace the lsd to standard diffs, done. run front universals in the rear, done. more work but its worth it. the x1 cr pro looks trick too. lets go racing........
#558
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
FREAKAH, well, even though i've had good success with my X1, no buggy is perfect. There are some issues no matter what brand you pick. "MY" main consideration was initial price and features, but since the jammin is better equipped then the 777 and needs less immediate attention, I chose it.
In my opinion, the Jammin X1 Pro and the Mugen Prospec MBX5 are the best buggies for the money, with the 777 in third......STILL, the driver and wrench(usually same person) will determine any cars success, not what some guy said on the internet............
Bottom line, if you can get what you paid out of your 777, do it, if not, finish it and enjoy it. But, do the popular mods first, before racing it, otherwise it will be pretty frustrating.........My friend has about $1000 in the rolling chassis of his 777 alone, not including our 777 Illuzion body, ..(shameless plug, haha).
As far as problems with the X1, I replaced the motor mounts to the one peice and the hinge pins to the screw type($70 total)......no problems since, it's a great car for a total investment of $570. But i'm not looking forward to buying a $140 chassis from OFNA?..........Jim
In my opinion, the Jammin X1 Pro and the Mugen Prospec MBX5 are the best buggies for the money, with the 777 in third......STILL, the driver and wrench(usually same person) will determine any cars success, not what some guy said on the internet............
Bottom line, if you can get what you paid out of your 777, do it, if not, finish it and enjoy it. But, do the popular mods first, before racing it, otherwise it will be pretty frustrating.........My friend has about $1000 in the rolling chassis of his 777 alone, not including our 777 Illuzion body, ..(shameless plug, haha).
As far as problems with the X1, I replaced the motor mounts to the one peice and the hinge pins to the screw type($70 total)......no problems since, it's a great car for a total investment of $570. But i'm not looking forward to buying a $140 chassis from OFNA?..........Jim
#559
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
xlgraphicspro, if your buggy seems to "nose dive" over jumps, one of two things is happening. The first is the oil may be too light in back, allowing the buggy to bottom out on the face of the jump and have the back end pushed off the jump harder then the front.
The second is the front oil may be too heavy, not allowing the front springs to bring the front end up as you leave the face of the jump, so it will be nose down as well.
Throttle control will help recover from alot of things, but if your car is way off, nothing will help except for being VERY carefull every time you hit that jump, or retuning the shocks.
Are you running a popular set up, or experimenting on your own?
If you drilled your pistons to 53's, then run about 50wt max up front and 40wt max in back. If you did not drill them you'll need to stay under 40wt in front and under 30wt in back.....Hope this helps?.....Jim
The second is the front oil may be too heavy, not allowing the front springs to bring the front end up as you leave the face of the jump, so it will be nose down as well.
Throttle control will help recover from alot of things, but if your car is way off, nothing will help except for being VERY carefull every time you hit that jump, or retuning the shocks.
Are you running a popular set up, or experimenting on your own?
If you drilled your pistons to 53's, then run about 50wt max up front and 40wt max in back. If you did not drill them you'll need to stay under 40wt in front and under 30wt in back.....Hope this helps?.....Jim
#560
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
arghh, i've never honestly seen a carbon/graphite chassis being run in 1/8th off-road. I would think from all the years i've been racing thet it would be far more fragile and expensive. I also don't think weight is a concern, since if my X1 was 2 ounces lighter it would be illegal......plus weight usually means easier to drive and more traction.
If you just want it to impress your racing buddies and have the money, go for it?
We proved that weight issue years ago testing an aluminum RC10 Team car to a graphite plate RC10, with aluminum tranny shafts and axles, etc............Even though we had our fastest lap with the "lightweight" car, our fastest 5 minute race was with the standard car....................................., Jim
If you just want it to impress your racing buddies and have the money, go for it?
We proved that weight issue years ago testing an aluminum RC10 Team car to a graphite plate RC10, with aluminum tranny shafts and axles, etc............Even though we had our fastest lap with the "lightweight" car, our fastest 5 minute race was with the standard car....................................., Jim
#562
Tech Adept
Anyone have any luck with the blue clutch?
I normally use the Mugen aluminum clutch with 1.1 springs. I was out of those so I tried the clutch (blue aluminum) and springs included with the Jammin Pro. After 5 tanks 2 springs broke and locked up the clutch bell. Is this normal for the OFNA springs? The Mugen clutch/springs are bullet proof. I've gone through about 5 sets over the past few months and none have broke. Just the usual wear.
#563
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
strguy, I had the same experience, broken clutch springs after about 5 or 6 tanks, cost me a race.
Now, I run only mugen shoes and springs, for most conditions I prefer the black shoes and 1.0 springs, but my Maxy modded Mega 7 port is too punchy, so i'm trying .9's the next race........Jim
Now, I run only mugen shoes and springs, for most conditions I prefer the black shoes and 1.0 springs, but my Maxy modded Mega 7 port is too punchy, so i'm trying .9's the next race........Jim
#564
Tech Adept
Originally posted by W.E.D.Jim
strguy, I had the same experience, broken clutch springs after about 5 or 6 tanks, cost me a race.
strguy, I had the same experience, broken clutch springs after about 5 or 6 tanks, cost me a race.
#565
I love My buggy!!!!!!!!!
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#570
All i need now is some Sponsers, Hint Hint