Gazza_D

hey guys, those arms in the picture posted by stjerno are in fact the long span and the mid span arms. He is right in saying the shorter arms make the car more responsive on tighter twistier tracks, the pivot point for the mid span arms is moved out to the outer holes on the chassis.

There is a short span arm set but it uses pivot blocks and pins instead of the pillow balls used on the mid and long span arms.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Hi Steve
Well this weekend I 'will be racing out door and I like to know should change the Med span to long span arm? The race track get med or better traction and is treated with grape soda
Any body got killer set up for out door racing ( R2 xenon stage 3)

GTO2

Talking abt arms, does anybody ever tried Front mid and Rear long? Would it give mild twitch or even more than applying both?

Merciless:
I notice the chassis wasn't prep with CA. Should've done it before the assy, makes it much more easier to do before that the battery slot 45deg and other filing need to be done 1st as well.
Front shaft holder will give way sooner or later, get the Alum ones. If you have extra cash change both F n R.
Looking good man, wish I can get hold of those uprights

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Hey Joseph, saw the Tech car up for sale, what are you gonna be running?

Merciless

Guys the lower chassis is CA'd ll around.

I sanded the edges before i glued it too i think it's the flash that's making it hard to see(Oh and maybe the fact that i never bother doing the other chassis parts ??)

Battery slots are filled as much as i'm going too ! my cells sit low in the chassis as it is anyway

Will get the shaft holders but there an expensive item when you got 4 to buy (2 cars)

Lucky i started with 2 cars really as i've so far had diff parts missing out of a second diff for 1 of the cars, no ballraces with the optional "complete" comet diffs,the ears come off one ofthe crown gears and a lack of diff shims to shim the diffs correctly to the crown gears.....................so i've built 1 good car from both at the moment and am awaiting replacement parts so as to be able to start the second

Anyone known where has got the hpi pistons INSTOCK ??

rc-zombies

iTrader: (9)

He's selling the std. Tech car... he's still got the 'R' version he's going to race this year.... he's down to 1 car now...

for now anyways....

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

aah, I got it I'm loving my belt car too, I'm running a lot of mod and it just seems easy to drive...

ImGoinRCn

iTrader: (4)

A belt car better in 19 turn than a shaft drive car?

Merciless

If ne1 has built the R3 and is reading this can you tell me if the lower shock mountings are part no.7 off the plastic shock parts tree ??

And could you get the shocks to the 59.5mm lenght as i can't seem to get below 60.5

Help please

stjerno

Hi Merciless,

Can't remeber if it part 7 but I followed the manual and it fit.
Have you remebered the 2mm spacer #13 after the e-ring in the top of the stempel ?

Just had my firest race day with my new cuda I'll be back with a review tomorrow Too good to be true

Happy racing
The Wallbanger

Merciless

the "update" sheet says that spacer no llonger needed

Well at least it says "you no longer need to put a 1mm teflon spacer on the shock shafts of the rear shocks." ?? ??

Merciless

Got it !! rear shocks used to have an EXTRA spacer

Oh well got the droop screws in already that'll cure the problem anyway !!

JusBox

iTrader: (1)

I had trouble building the shocks too... pretty confusing. I'm going to go with a set of trf shocks soon anyway.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I'm not having any problems in 19t with the car either. Dont know if it's so much the belt car as it's the Losi though, I really just like how the car works.

JusBox

iTrader: (1)

Didn't you have a losi originally? Then sold it, bought every other car and then went back to the losi? Kinda funny.