Unregulated LiPo
#16
True also but none of our LHS has this unit on sale. Already tried looking around.
Yeah racing regulator is very commonly used nowadays so far so good. Easy to find as it became common item.
Yeah racing regulator is very commonly used nowadays so far so good. Easy to find as it became common item.
#17
Tech Regular
Wow, thanks. I always through the vz is a digital servo. But I am running another VZ in my 1/8 now with spektrum, 2S lipo and regulator for almost a year now without any issue.....
Sorry.... maybe your sanwa got burned because sanwa erg-vz is analog servo. When you connect analog servo to spektrum receiver, analog servo's FET will get hot..... so hot until it burned itself. Please check your spektrum receiver manual regarding using analog servos.
Futaba HRS receivers also don't work with analog servos.
Futaba HRS receivers also don't work with analog servos.
#18
If you already use the combo for almost a year without overheating problem, I guess the combo are fine to combine.
Last edited by asw7576; 12-28-2009 at 12:38 AM.
#19
In my book there are several advantages to running a regulator on Lipos or even LIFE batteries.
1) The servo's and receiver sees a regulated voltage. This gives consistant and more predictable throttle and servo response throughout the batteries usage.
2) When fully charged....I have found my Lipo's produce almost 8volts at peak charge. I don't want to risk damaging $100.00 + electronics to save a little space.
3)After using regulated lipo's for over a year, I have found far less problems with burned out or broken servos.
4) I haven't tried the Life batteries yet, but they from what I have read are a more stable power source. However.... they are rated at 6.6volts...but is the peak voltage when fully charged in the mid to high 7's? I still would run a regulator with it.
1) The servo's and receiver sees a regulated voltage. This gives consistant and more predictable throttle and servo response throughout the batteries usage.
2) When fully charged....I have found my Lipo's produce almost 8volts at peak charge. I don't want to risk damaging $100.00 + electronics to save a little space.
3)After using regulated lipo's for over a year, I have found far less problems with burned out or broken servos.
4) I haven't tried the Life batteries yet, but they from what I have read are a more stable power source. However.... they are rated at 6.6volts...but is the peak voltage when fully charged in the mid to high 7's? I still would run a regulator with it.
#20
Btw I also get 6.6V with my NiMH pack at full charge using Voltmeter to test. So far no issues... Since LiFe is still new. I was hoping if someone who tried would share their opinion.
#21
In my book there are several advantages to running a regulator on Lipos or even LIFE batteries.
1) The servo's and receiver sees a regulated voltage. This gives consistant and more predictable throttle and servo response throughout the batteries usage.
2) When fully charged....I have found my Lipo's produce almost 8volts at peak charge. I don't want to risk damaging $100.00 + electronics to save a little space.
3)After using regulated lipo's for over a year, I have found far less problems with burned out or broken servos.
4) I haven't tried the Life batteries yet, but they from what I have read are a more stable power source. However.... they are rated at 6.6volts...but is the peak voltage when fully charged in the mid to high 7's? I still would run a regulator with it.
1) The servo's and receiver sees a regulated voltage. This gives consistant and more predictable throttle and servo response throughout the batteries usage.
2) When fully charged....I have found my Lipo's produce almost 8volts at peak charge. I don't want to risk damaging $100.00 + electronics to save a little space.
3)After using regulated lipo's for over a year, I have found far less problems with burned out or broken servos.
4) I haven't tried the Life batteries yet, but they from what I have read are a more stable power source. However.... they are rated at 6.6volts...but is the peak voltage when fully charged in the mid to high 7's? I still would run a regulator with it.
Last edited by new3; 12-28-2009 at 09:24 PM.
#22
Besides that any difference in run time for LiFe comparision with NiMH of same mAH rating. Will I get more with LiFe other than weight.
#23
Tech Apprentice
i am running life at 6.6 volts in 1/8 and 1/5 th they work great and no reg needed. i know they will fit in serpent , Shepard, montonica i believe a mugan. i use the big one in the 1/5th scale. they are reasonable. and they don't blow up like lipo and they last longer than lipos. for a very good reg at an inexpensive price that i have used for years. common sense r/c has one that you get bang for buck
#24
I am using Spekrum SR3500 previously. Although the supported voltage is 3.2 - 9V. I still stick to NiMH at 6V. Reason is when u input 6V to the RX. The output is the same as input. Higher volts will kill the servos. Else you may consider a regular to be safe.. But I seen ppl got both servo's toasted when their regulator mulfunctions..
To date no servo manufacturer produces servo to operate at 7.4V for this case.
To date no servo manufacturer produces servo to operate at 7.4V for this case.
#25
Just to add to the point that this isn't correct, all current KO Propo radio gear is compatible with an unregulated Li-Po receiver pack. I've also been running the Orion/Peak servos with an unregulated lipo pack and have not had any issues. Rest assured that most radio manufacturers are already moving in the direction of making their radio gear compatible with the voltage levels common with a LiPo pack.
Speed: 0.10sec/60deg
Torque: 13kg.cm (6.0V)
Size: 39.0 x 20.0 x 37.4mm
Weight: 61g
#26
LiFe offers you that kind of maintenance without degradation to the battery. It will hold a charge for FAR longer than a NiMH will so you can charge put your car away for the winter, then bring your car out in the summer and not have to worry about charging it. You can't do that with NiMH.
Technically yes, I've seen people charge LiFe with LiPO chargers. I wouldn't suggest it though because of the chemistry difference and how each type of battery peaks. There are very low cost chargers available that will do both, and if you can afford to run nitro you can afford a 50$ or 100$ charger . I would suggest being safe.
#27
Tech Apprentice
Technically yes, I've seen people charge LiFe with LiPO chargers. I wouldn't suggest it though because of the chemistry difference and how each type of battery peaks. There are very low cost chargers available that will do both, and if you can afford to run nitro you can afford a 50$ or 100$ charger . I would suggest being safe.
Any suggestion on charger brand and model ?
#28
There are a couple that i normally suggest to nitro guys:
1) Hyperion EOS 0606i AC/DC easy to use, does every chemistry battery and doesn't require an additional power supply, well constructed etc etc etc . You can charge your starter box and everything else with this charger. I own and use the 606's big brother the duo 3.
2) Turnigy Accucell-6 really really cheap, you need an external power supply and you get what you pay for BUT it's cheap!! There are a couple guys at the track that run these things, and they seem to like them. They feel a little light and flimsy but for 40$ you really can't beat them with a stick. Power supply for this charger. You can charge your starter box and everything else with this charger too.
3) Hyperion Duo III if you've got a decent sized budget and you want the best, this is it. It remembers everything, can charge 2 batteries at once, makes coffee and if you push it's buttons just right there is a happy ending . Power supply for this charger.
There are a bunch of other chargers on the market but to keep things simple these are what i'd suggest. I've used all three, and own and use the Duo 3 for my electric and nitro racing.
Be careful with the Duratrax Onyx line, they can only do 3s lipo so you won't be able to charge your starter boxes.
1) Hyperion EOS 0606i AC/DC easy to use, does every chemistry battery and doesn't require an additional power supply, well constructed etc etc etc . You can charge your starter box and everything else with this charger. I own and use the 606's big brother the duo 3.
2) Turnigy Accucell-6 really really cheap, you need an external power supply and you get what you pay for BUT it's cheap!! There are a couple guys at the track that run these things, and they seem to like them. They feel a little light and flimsy but for 40$ you really can't beat them with a stick. Power supply for this charger. You can charge your starter box and everything else with this charger too.
3) Hyperion Duo III if you've got a decent sized budget and you want the best, this is it. It remembers everything, can charge 2 batteries at once, makes coffee and if you push it's buttons just right there is a happy ending . Power supply for this charger.
There are a bunch of other chargers on the market but to keep things simple these are what i'd suggest. I've used all three, and own and use the Duo 3 for my electric and nitro racing.
Be careful with the Duratrax Onyx line, they can only do 3s lipo so you won't be able to charge your starter boxes.
#29
Tech Apprentice
Thanks for the advice.
Best raegards.
Best raegards.
#30
LiFe technically isn't new. The electric airplane guys have been running them for a couple years or more now. I have a couple different manufacturers that I've tested and I resell Hyperion cells under my own brand and directly. There are quite a few nitro guys around I've sold them to and they are very happy with them for the reasons stated above. I use NiMh because it's cheaper.