HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
#2881
i am sad to report due to my engine troubles i was unable to get a chance to put in any good lap times
i got to the track early enough to run some practice and the car was incredible but engine temp was over 300
in the first qualifyer my crystal came loose in warm-up and i got a late start and ran 9 laps and stalled
in my second qualifier i ran into a board in warm-up and broke the front universal
the 3rd qualifier i figured out why i hit the wall in the 2nd because my reciever pack was dying
i was now qualified dead last except for the guy who left after 1 lap
i easily took the c-main (still running 300+) but stalled in the B then started pushing the car and grenaded it on the straight
i guess i could go back and check the c-main lap times but without having a properly tuned engine im sure they werent very good
and once a get a new engine there will be no real comparison i admit
but honestly i could feel a real difference after lightening i was so excited after practice i never thought my day would go like it did
i got to the track early enough to run some practice and the car was incredible but engine temp was over 300
in the first qualifyer my crystal came loose in warm-up and i got a late start and ran 9 laps and stalled
in my second qualifier i ran into a board in warm-up and broke the front universal
the 3rd qualifier i figured out why i hit the wall in the 2nd because my reciever pack was dying
i was now qualified dead last except for the guy who left after 1 lap
i easily took the c-main (still running 300+) but stalled in the B then started pushing the car and grenaded it on the straight
i guess i could go back and check the c-main lap times but without having a properly tuned engine im sure they werent very good
and once a get a new engine there will be no real comparison i admit
but honestly i could feel a real difference after lightening i was so excited after practice i never thought my day would go like it did
#2882
Originally posted by PTP Racing
i am sad to report due to my engine troubles i was unable to get a chance to put in any good lap times
i got to the track early enough to run some practice and the car was incredible but engine temp was over 300
in the first qualifyer my crystal came loose in warm-up and i got a late start and ran 9 laps and stalled
in my second qualifier i ran into a board in warm-up and broke the front universal
the 3rd qualifier i figured out why i hit the wall in the 2nd because my reciever pack was dying
i was now qualified dead last except for the guy who left after 1 lap
i easily took the c-main (still running 300+) but stalled in the B then started pushing the car and grenaded it on the straight
i guess i could go back and check the c-main lap times but without having a properly tuned engine im sure they werent very good
and once a get a new engine there will be no real comparison i admit
but honestly i could feel a real difference after lightening i was so excited after practice i never thought my day would go like it did
i am sad to report due to my engine troubles i was unable to get a chance to put in any good lap times
i got to the track early enough to run some practice and the car was incredible but engine temp was over 300
in the first qualifyer my crystal came loose in warm-up and i got a late start and ran 9 laps and stalled
in my second qualifier i ran into a board in warm-up and broke the front universal
the 3rd qualifier i figured out why i hit the wall in the 2nd because my reciever pack was dying
i was now qualified dead last except for the guy who left after 1 lap
i easily took the c-main (still running 300+) but stalled in the B then started pushing the car and grenaded it on the straight
i guess i could go back and check the c-main lap times but without having a properly tuned engine im sure they werent very good
and once a get a new engine there will be no real comparison i admit
but honestly i could feel a real difference after lightening i was so excited after practice i never thought my day would go like it did
#2883
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
dusty track
hey how is it going? I was wondering what is a good setup for the r40 on a dusty track? I was practicing at a local track, and the surface was not too clean. I was using the stock setup from the manual(on yeah I had the front shock position on the innner most position). However I was using different foams from the kit, I was using 40 fronts and 37 rears (30m). It seemed as if I was not able to get on the car too much, the back end out come out from under neeth me.
thanks all
Jason
thanks all
Jason
#2884
Re: dusty track
Originally posted by jscamry
hey how is it going? I was wondering what is a good setup for the r40 on a dusty track? I was practicing at a local track, and the surface was not too clean. I was using the stock setup from the manual(on yeah I had the front shock position on the innner most position). However I was using different foams from the kit, I was using 40 fronts and 37 rears (30m). It seemed as if I was not able to get on the car too much, the back end out come out from under neeth me.
thanks all
Jason
hey how is it going? I was wondering what is a good setup for the r40 on a dusty track? I was practicing at a local track, and the surface was not too clean. I was using the stock setup from the manual(on yeah I had the front shock position on the innner most position). However I was using different foams from the kit, I was using 40 fronts and 37 rears (30m). It seemed as if I was not able to get on the car too much, the back end out come out from under neeth me.
thanks all
Jason
To get a little more rear grip you can use, more rear toe, more rear droop, or possibly softer springs. End of the day the tires can only do so much, and all the weight transfer in the world wont help. Try an Alfa 2.1 body as well, it has pretty good rear grip.
#2885
Tech Fanatic
Just like PTP and NCC did, I lightened the car. I lost over 100grams. I also changed the clutch shoe to the mugen red. Wow! Punch and responsiveness was quite apparent off the line. My lap times were still about .2-.5 sec off the mark. I believe the problem lies in the front end push. Anybody got any ideas. I've tried running less droop (less travel, not less #). I did notice however, that my rear diff (10k w/4 gears) was starting to leak at the outdrives. On power my car was pushing which was probably due to the loose diff in the rear. I've been running 10k because I've been having a problem keeping the rear end planted. Now that I have the rear very well planted (using 35F/37R GQ tires) I may change back to the 30 K I used to have in the car now that the rear is planted.
On another note, has anybody noticed how bad the rear arm/hub flexes? I hope that by chaning to the new arms the rear end will feel more consistant. I'll let you guys now on thurs (I've got the day off) how the new arms are working. The thing I really like about the new rear arms is that they relocated the droop screw to the front of the arm. Makes setting droop much easier. I also installed the new adj sway bar. I also swapped the front one-way outdrives with much lighter ones.
Now I'm really starting to get mad. This time my belt lasted a little bit longer as I set the tension quite tight. Actually I think it's too tight but it did however make the belt last. The belt is just coming apart. I know some people have stated that they haven't had a problem but it's hard for guys to compare because 1) I've running a very torquey (sp?) motor. A JP RRL5 with 30% and #5 plug. 2) our track has very good traction (permanent track) 3) our track is very tight where you're rarely at full throttle. I did check out a mugen belt and it seems like it may work. It looks a bit loose but at least it's made out of much durable material.
And that's it folks!!!!
JB
On another note, has anybody noticed how bad the rear arm/hub flexes? I hope that by chaning to the new arms the rear end will feel more consistant. I'll let you guys now on thurs (I've got the day off) how the new arms are working. The thing I really like about the new rear arms is that they relocated the droop screw to the front of the arm. Makes setting droop much easier. I also installed the new adj sway bar. I also swapped the front one-way outdrives with much lighter ones.
Now I'm really starting to get mad. This time my belt lasted a little bit longer as I set the tension quite tight. Actually I think it's too tight but it did however make the belt last. The belt is just coming apart. I know some people have stated that they haven't had a problem but it's hard for guys to compare because 1) I've running a very torquey (sp?) motor. A JP RRL5 with 30% and #5 plug. 2) our track has very good traction (permanent track) 3) our track is very tight where you're rarely at full throttle. I did check out a mugen belt and it seems like it may work. It looks a bit loose but at least it's made out of much durable material.
And that's it folks!!!!
JB
#2886
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
where did you get the new arms?....
#2888
yeah it was a horrible day at the races (still better than the best day at work though)
cant blame anyone but myself though i knew i was around 300 even while playing it safe
i will be offroading untill i can get enough for a real fast engine
looking probably for a 5 port any suggestions??
and i think im going to go back to 20% nitro at least for touring car
cant blame anyone but myself though i knew i was around 300 even while playing it safe
i will be offroading untill i can get enough for a real fast engine
looking probably for a 5 port any suggestions??
and i think im going to go back to 20% nitro at least for touring car
#2889
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by fastharry
where did you get the new arms?....
where did you get the new arms?....
PM me with your requests. I will need you to prepay, that way I'm covered if you decide to back out. Here's the thing too...Akihabara is about an hour and a half away. He should be making a trip this coming weekend. Funds will need to be in by Thurs since they are a day ahead. You can figure out at least $10-15 for shipping, insurance. I will charge at least $10-15 for shipping per person no matter how many people get together. The reason is that it takes time for him (and he complains about it being a hassle...I laugh and say...."c'mon lil bro...and he finally gives in)...plus he says he gets hungry. As for pricing, please contact me and I will try to do some research or just find the price somewhere and let me know. Please don't forget 5% on top of the price. That is there tax rate over there. I accept paypal and you can check ebay under kaliboy for user feedback. NCC here on the boards can vouch for me; I got the 2004 conversion for him. One last thing....the difference between the 2004 CONVERSION and the actual 2004 spec kit is that the kit comes with the titanium screws, front one way and threaded aluminum shocks. The conversion kit is 13000 yen and the kit is 33000 yen. I believe the conversion rate is at 105 as of last friday. I remember last year when I visited it was close to 118.
On another note...I have the new adj rear sway bar. It's nice to have but adds weight (minimal) to the car.
#2890
Tech Adept
looking probably for a 5 port any suggestions??
#2892
Originally posted by Proteus
Just like PTP and NCC did, I lightened the car. I lost over 100grams. I also changed the clutch shoe to the mugen red. Wow! Punch and responsiveness was quite apparent off the line. My lap times were still about .2-.5 sec off the mark. I believe the problem lies in the front end push. Anybody got any ideas. I've tried running less droop (less travel, not less #). I did notice however, that my rear diff (10k w/4 gears) was starting to leak at the outdrives. On power my car was pushing which was probably due to the loose diff in the rear. I've been running 10k because I've been having a problem keeping the rear end planted. Now that I have the rear very well planted (using 35F/37R GQ tires) I may change back to the 30 K I used to have in the car now that the rear is planted.
On another note, has anybody noticed how bad the rear arm/hub flexes? I hope that by chaning to the new arms the rear end will feel more consistant. I'll let you guys now on thurs (I've got the day off) how the new arms are working. The thing I really like about the new rear arms is that they relocated the droop screw to the front of the arm. Makes setting droop much easier. I also installed the new adj sway bar. I also swapped the front one-way outdrives with much lighter ones.
Now I'm really starting to get mad. This time my belt lasted a little bit longer as I set the tension quite tight. Actually I think it's too tight but it did however make the belt last. The belt is just coming apart. I know some people have stated that they haven't had a problem but it's hard for guys to compare because 1) I've running a very torquey (sp?) motor. A JP RRL5 with 30% and #5 plug. 2) our track has very good traction (permanent track) 3) our track is very tight where you're rarely at full throttle. I did check out a mugen belt and it seems like it may work. It looks a bit loose but at least it's made out of much durable material.
And that's it folks!!!!
JB
Just like PTP and NCC did, I lightened the car. I lost over 100grams. I also changed the clutch shoe to the mugen red. Wow! Punch and responsiveness was quite apparent off the line. My lap times were still about .2-.5 sec off the mark. I believe the problem lies in the front end push. Anybody got any ideas. I've tried running less droop (less travel, not less #). I did notice however, that my rear diff (10k w/4 gears) was starting to leak at the outdrives. On power my car was pushing which was probably due to the loose diff in the rear. I've been running 10k because I've been having a problem keeping the rear end planted. Now that I have the rear very well planted (using 35F/37R GQ tires) I may change back to the 30 K I used to have in the car now that the rear is planted.
On another note, has anybody noticed how bad the rear arm/hub flexes? I hope that by chaning to the new arms the rear end will feel more consistant. I'll let you guys now on thurs (I've got the day off) how the new arms are working. The thing I really like about the new rear arms is that they relocated the droop screw to the front of the arm. Makes setting droop much easier. I also installed the new adj sway bar. I also swapped the front one-way outdrives with much lighter ones.
Now I'm really starting to get mad. This time my belt lasted a little bit longer as I set the tension quite tight. Actually I think it's too tight but it did however make the belt last. The belt is just coming apart. I know some people have stated that they haven't had a problem but it's hard for guys to compare because 1) I've running a very torquey (sp?) motor. A JP RRL5 with 30% and #5 plug. 2) our track has very good traction (permanent track) 3) our track is very tight where you're rarely at full throttle. I did check out a mugen belt and it seems like it may work. It looks a bit loose but at least it's made out of much durable material.
And that's it folks!!!!
JB
Front end push. I assume you are running a one way? Where does it push, into or mid corner? On power it will push with 10K in the rear in good traction for sure.
The new rear arms are awesome, the droop locations are much more convienient, and I like attaching the swaybars on the outer linkage points. Give the arms more leverage on the bar itself.
With your belts I dunno. I run a RB V12 which is a torquey motor, with the Red Rulon shoes on a good traction track which has 8 180 degree hard acceleration corners. Mine has so far held up. Do you know why they are crapping out?
#2893
Re: AMG
Originally posted by jscamry
I am using Alfa 2.1 body, also do you own a AMG?
thanks Jason
I am using Alfa 2.1 body, also do you own a AMG?
thanks Jason
As for the AMG it is a wierd story. My friend used to own an AMG and we would rock up at the track in it and then start to pull these crappy RC cars out of the trunk (HPI Racer 2 and Kyosho Pure 10 GP Spider MK II World Cup Edition). We got some wierd looks for sure. I dont personally own one, I am a Japanese car fan myself.
#2894
Originally posted by PTP Racing
yeah it was a horrible day at the races (still better than the best day at work though)
cant blame anyone but myself though i knew i was around 300 even while playing it safe
i will be offroading untill i can get enough for a real fast engine
looking probably for a 5 port any suggestions??
and i think im going to go back to 20% nitro at least for touring car
yeah it was a horrible day at the races (still better than the best day at work though)
cant blame anyone but myself though i knew i was around 300 even while playing it safe
i will be offroading untill i can get enough for a real fast engine
looking probably for a 5 port any suggestions??
and i think im going to go back to 20% nitro at least for touring car
#2895
Originally posted by Proteus
I accept paypal and you can check ebay under kaliboy for user feedback. NCC here on the boards can vouch for me;
I accept paypal and you can check ebay under kaliboy for user feedback. NCC here on the boards can vouch for me;
Proteus would your brother ship to other countries? I dont need anything right now, but it might be handy if my HK hookups fail me.