racer x 1

iTrader: (27)

the stratus seem be a high downforce body on my mtx3 but cant really tell yet on my four.

Stew

This may have already been covered, but I didn't fel like reading through 100 post replies.

Are the axle shaft lengths on the MTX3 the same overall length as the new MTX4? AND are the length of the front's the same as the rear?

Thanks,

Stew

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

I have tried all the bodies that rcfoolz has tried as well. I also have run the Losi and Parma Alfa's. I found the Losi Alfa to be the best of the 3, but the Alfa's were the worst of the bunch. Lots of steering, loose, but unstable and inconsistant. The caddy was also loose but consistant. I liked it and got my best qualifiers using this but I also got my worst quals. I stopped using this body because it was too hard to drive for long periods of time and exposed my car to too many risks on the track. The mazda was just the opposite of the caddy. Not enough steering. Very easy to turn consistant laps. I switched to this body because it was easier to drive for long periods of time. I didn't love this body, but it was the best I could find. The stratus 3.1 is great. I have not run any of the previous stratus bodies, but this one is awesome. It has steering close to the caddy and the rear is planted close to the mazda. I loved it on the MTX3 and I love it on the MTX4. For reference, I run on medium and large tracks usually prepped fairly well and I run only on foam tires.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

The axle shaft is the piece that fits through the upright and is threaded for the wheel nut. They are the same on both cars. The dogbones are also the same. If you use CVD's, the MTX4 uses a new length for the rear that just became available. On the front of the 4, many people use the MTX3 rear cvds (mugen suggests these). Some people including myself use the MTX3 rear cvd's on the front of the mtx4.

Stew

Scott,

Thanks for the correction. My use of the term axle shaft was incorrect adn I thank you for pointing that out.

Here is the reason I am asking. I see that there are complete assemblies made of Titanium that incorporate the CVD, dog bone and axle shaft as one piece.

I was considering these on the MTX4 and was attempting to gather enough information on the forum here to enlighten me so I could make the swap.

The CVD set I have found are for the MTX 3 and the ad states "front or rear".
It these will fit the MTX3, then will they also fit the MTX4?

I believe that in your answer you more or less answered my question, but I thought that perhaps a more direct and specific question would be better.

Thanks,

Stew

Stew

Scott,

Thanks for the reply on performance. I was struggling a little with the choice of the Stratus vs Mazda. I think the Stratus will be the choice.

Thanks again,

Stew

rcmike

iTrader: (40)

The mugen cvd from the mtx3 will fit the frt of the mtx4, but will not work on the rear because of the longer arms on the rear of the mtx4. I heard that mugen is coming out with a cvd kit for the rear of the mtx4 in the future off of this forum.

ogreasurada

iTrader: (1)

Actually it came out a while ago, part# is T0274.

Stew

I'm looking for Titanium CVD's....

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

Part T0274 came out a just a few weeks ago. It is the complete CVD setup for the rear of the MTX4. For the front of the MTX4 Mugen says to use part T0245. That is the same as the MTX3 front universal set. I use the MTX3 rear universal set on the front of my MTX4. That is part number T0249. I have never used Titanium for these parts. If you give them a try, let us know how they hold up. If it were me I would use the stock steel ones on the front and try the titanium on the rear first.

rcfoolz

iTrader: (22)

GPM made titanium ones. I tried them once and tossed them in the trash. 1 hit and they twisted. Second hit and it snapped. Titanium cannot take the stress load.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

That doesn't surprise me. That is why I was skeptical to try them on the front of the car.

going4#1

RC, I not surprised by the results but to me it seems GPM's parts are more to blame than titanium in general. Titanium can be quite expensive when used in it's near pure form (%98-99.5). For low-cost applications, titanium is the primary component of an alloy that can also contain tin, aluminum, and valadium. 6AL4V (%90 ti) is a common type of titanium alloy used for RC parts, golf clubs, knives, etc. but other alloy mixes exist. Plus, how parts are made and quality control plays a big part in how well a part will turn out. Are parts cast or milled?

That being said, I can't see anyone cutting RC parts out of the highest quality titanium out there. A set of CVDs costing $400 wouldn't sell too well. Ti sounds sexy and exotic but it isn't. It's light, strong, and corrosion resistant but for RC parts undergoing a lot of stress you need parts that will take a lot more punishment than 6AL4V. Steel is an ideal material and for CVDs that's what I'd stick with. Even for screws, I've only used Ti on the top deck but not the bottom. If the head snaps off it will be a nightmare drilling out a titanium screw.

going4#1

I've tired 4 bodies. The Kawahara Lexus LS-250, Kawahara Accord, Protoform Stratus 3, and PF Mazda 6.

The Mazda 6 is a quick body but it is sensitive. You've got to be very careful with your steering input as even a little steering input can destabilise the car if your not careful. But going around a turn the car can be quite quick with this body.

The Accord is similiar to the 6, at least what I've experienced, but a little slower on turns.

The LS-250 and Stratus 3 are smooth riders. If your hand gets a little jittery your car won't freak out. They tend to understeer just a bit but if you turn earlier that should fix the problem.

As for Kawahara vs. Protoform: PF nice price but weaker lexan so body life is a bit shorter. Good selection of stickers too. Kawahara higher price, disappointing stickers but slightly thicker lexan so body tends to last longer.

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

Stew:

If you are going to do roar racing, the Kawahara bodies are not on the approved list. I also found just the opposite of Going4#1 to be true when comparing the stratus and mazda bodies. If you can, get them both and try them. You will know for sure then.