View Poll Results: what's your tire choice?
Protoform
46
30.67%
HPI
104
69.33%
Voters: 150. You may not vote on this poll
U.S. Vintage Trans-Am Racing Part 2
#8251
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
Prevent the flex when I turn in 3 feet to early!! Lol... Anyone know a place to get big chunks of foam?[/QUOTE]
I use a foam block from parma and cut it to fit the body.
http://www.amain.com/parma-pse-unive...e2LRoCYPfw_wcB
I use a foam block from parma and cut it to fit the body.
http://www.amain.com/parma-pse-unive...e2LRoCYPfw_wcB
#8252
I actually do like the driver -figure part, you have to get creative with how you mount them up. I have a set-up that is "quick release" and I can slap any shell on, I don't glue the driver to the body itself as some do. It's a cool part of the class to have the added realism.
For me, one of the main reasons I wanted to run this class when I was introduced to it (Thanks Bob!) was because these are scale looking muscle cars with realistic tires and rims. I like the speed of the 17.5 TC and other classes, but the sweep type tires/wheels/bodies can make them look like toys from Fisher-Price.
Guess I'm old school, and proud of it, but if VTA is just another class to you where the only difference you see is motor turns and a different molded lexan clam shell, then you don't understand "The spirit of VTA" that most of us dig. If you look at the photos below, you will see driver "figures" inside each car. That's the look I think the founders of the class were going for.
#8253
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
I actually do like the driver -figure part, you have to get creative with how you mount them up. I have a set-up that is "quick release" and I can slap any shell on, I don't glue the driver to the body itself as some do. It's a cool part of the class to have the added realism.
#8254
Tech Addict
iTrader: (5)
There is no best tire. You have to run the HPI vintage tire. The correct part number is on the USVTA website. But you need to use traction compoun(stx 3.0 works great). And it will take a few runs to break the tires in before they start to work really well. Driver is in the rules. So... I dont run one, but I will if I ever go to a big race.
See you Sunday,
Mark
#8255
Chad
#8256
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
question on battery here, last race had my servo horn loosen up down the straight into the first turn and hit the wall and upper door pretty hard, cracked the battery case.
Anything I should look out for on the battery in particular?
Also, if anyone has any tips on an inner driver figure quick mount setup, let me know. Would like something simple and prepainted if possible to pick up.
Anything I should look out for on the battery in particular?
Also, if anyone has any tips on an inner driver figure quick mount setup, let me know. Would like something simple and prepainted if possible to pick up.
#8257
Tech Legend
iTrader: (1212)
question on battery here, last race had my servo horn loosen up down the straight into the first turn and hit the wall and upper door pretty hard, cracked the battery case.
Anything I should look out for on the battery in particular?
Also, if anyone has any tips on an inner driver figure quick mount setup, let me know. Would like something simple and prepainted if possible to pick up.
Anything I should look out for on the battery in particular?
Also, if anyone has any tips on an inner driver figure quick mount setup, let me know. Would like something simple and prepainted if possible to pick up.
#8259
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
http://www.rctech.net/forum/13681952-post5176.html
Here's what I did for my driver. I needed something light, LOL. His spine is zip tied to the motor leads coming out of my Justock ESC.
BTW, our club doesn't require a driver. But I think it's a cool rule and I keep Ol' Bones strapped in for the fun of it.
#8260
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
You'll find more driver figure tips in the VTA body/paint thread, and specifically in this recent post here:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/13681952-post5176.html
Here's what I did for my driver. I needed something light, LOL. His spine is zip tied to the motor leads coming out of my Justock ESC.
BTW, our club doesn't require a driver. But I think it's a cool rule and I keep Ol' Bones strapped in for the fun of it.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/13681952-post5176.html
Here's what I did for my driver. I needed something light, LOL. His spine is zip tied to the motor leads coming out of my Justock ESC.
BTW, our club doesn't require a driver. But I think it's a cool rule and I keep Ol' Bones strapped in for the fun of it.
#8261
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
For reinforcing bodies, use the wing joining fiberglass strips at your LHS. I put Shoe Goo on the body first, then use a squeegee/bondo spreader to put the fiberglass strips on top of it to spread it evenly and permeate the strip with Shoe Goo. It is MUCH stronger than the drywall tape that you get at Lowe's or Home Depot.
#8264
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
For reinforcing bodies, use the wing joining fiberglass strips at your LHS. I put Shoe Goo on the body first, then use a squeegee/bondo spreader to put the fiberglass strips on top of it to spread it evenly and permeate the strip with Shoe Goo. It is MUCH stronger than the drywall tape that you get at Lowe's or Home Depot.
cost though was up there for what I felt I got in comparison to the drywall tape, but still, definitely strong.
Hmm, nice. I should add a female head to the passenger and maybe a sound box so I can simulate my wife's side seat driving.