Tamiya mini cooper
My old shocks seemed to have a lot of shaft stick-tion, too-thick fluid and probably the wrong springs, making . With the old shocks, the Mini was pretty chattery on bumpy pavement.
The TRF works shocks are so smooth. The car is very settled in bumps, while still not bottoming. The new shocks (the only thing I changed) make the car a lot more planted in corners.
I'm looking forward to my next race, which unfortunately isn't for two weeks.
Anyway, thank you again.
Bill S.
Tech Elite
Thanks G-pa. Have not run at WCRC in months. Our first outing was at Cal with CB (mountain biking buddy).
I have taken your suggestion in a previous post about the Sweep Premounts. We now have an assortment from 25-40's. Have a spare set of 40's for the impending CA treatment, but didn't use them at Cal. My LWB car was a little tippy if I hugged the curbing a bit too tight. Also, needed a little more rear grip in certain areas of the track. Still playing with setup. Roll bars should arrive today from TQ.
My daughter didn't have any real issues with her MWB car except for a little rear end chatter. Different story for me when I drove it. We have very similar speed, driving styles are different I guess.
I have taken your suggestion in a previous post about the Sweep Premounts. We now have an assortment from 25-40's. Have a spare set of 40's for the impending CA treatment, but didn't use them at Cal. My LWB car was a little tippy if I hugged the curbing a bit too tight. Also, needed a little more rear grip in certain areas of the track. Still playing with setup. Roll bars should arrive today from TQ.
My daughter didn't have any real issues with her MWB car except for a little rear end chatter. Different story for me when I drove it. We have very similar speed, driving styles are different I guess.
The problem might not be at the rear of the car, but at the front. It could be the front is biting too hard and digging in the outside front tire. Try raising the front ride height a mm or so to keep the weight transfer down. A rear roll bar is helpful also cause it helps control the roll of the front. You could also try reducing the amount of travel and/or slow down the servo speed. You can also widen the track by using spacers.
Rear end chatter is usually one or a combination of the following: A mismatch in the shock oil to spring. Too stiff a spring or too light an oil can do this. Not enough rear camber and ride height in the rear being too high. Rear track too narrow. Too much rebound in the shocks.
Probably more things, but those are the most common errors.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Guys quick question
Does anyone know the difference between Tamiyas Antiware Compound and
a compund called Never Sieze?
In reality they look and feel the same
Does anyone know the difference between Tamiyas Antiware Compound and
a compund called Never Sieze?
In reality they look and feel the same
There are a number of things you can do for more rear end grip. The easiest is to drop your rear ride height a mm or so. This will also give you more rear camber. You could install some adjustable rear links so you have a way to increase rear camber.
The problem might not be at the rear of the car, but at the front. It could be the front is biting too hard and digging in the outside front tire. Try raising the front ride height a mm or so to keep the weight transfer down. A rear roll bar is helpful also cause it helps control the roll of the front. You could also try reducing the amount of travel and/or slow down the servo speed. You can also widen the track by using spacers.
Rear end chatter is usually one or a combination of the following: A mismatch in the shock oil to spring. Too stiff a spring or too light an oil can do this. Not enough rear camber and ride height in the rear being too high. Rear track too narrow. Too much rebound in the shocks.
Probably more things, but those are the most common errors.
The problem might not be at the rear of the car, but at the front. It could be the front is biting too hard and digging in the outside front tire. Try raising the front ride height a mm or so to keep the weight transfer down. A rear roll bar is helpful also cause it helps control the roll of the front. You could also try reducing the amount of travel and/or slow down the servo speed. You can also widen the track by using spacers.
Rear end chatter is usually one or a combination of the following: A mismatch in the shock oil to spring. Too stiff a spring or too light an oil can do this. Not enough rear camber and ride height in the rear being too high. Rear track too narrow. Too much rebound in the shocks.
Probably more things, but those are the most common errors.
Any advice on order of upgrades for a M05?
First a little background. I'm building a small garage track, super tight and have a handful of racers already lined up. We're running M size cars, silver cans, and body correct drivetrain but beyond that everything is fair game. I've already got a RWD Cup Racer and just built my first ever Tamiya M-scale. I've got oil dampers, a range of springs, and aluminum steering already on the way. I'm holding off on tires as one of our racers has a large selection and I'll see what works before dropping anymore money there. Where else should I be looking at for upgrades right away?
Edit - already did bearings when I built the car up and the race surface is relatively low traction if that's relevant.
First a little background. I'm building a small garage track, super tight and have a handful of racers already lined up. We're running M size cars, silver cans, and body correct drivetrain but beyond that everything is fair game. I've already got a RWD Cup Racer and just built my first ever Tamiya M-scale. I've got oil dampers, a range of springs, and aluminum steering already on the way. I'm holding off on tires as one of our racers has a large selection and I'll see what works before dropping anymore money there. Where else should I be looking at for upgrades right away?
Edit - already did bearings when I built the car up and the race surface is relatively low traction if that's relevant.
Last edited by forty2; 05-10-2013 at 09:08 PM.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Sounds as if you're on your way
Best upgrade I would suggest is to get out on that track and run laps so you learn how to handle the car and track and how the car and the track handle
Best upgrade I would suggest is to get out on that track and run laps so you learn how to handle the car and track and how the car and the track handle
Working on it. Just etched the concrete yesterday in hopes of getting a little more grip out of it. Going to run it later today and see if I did. Still waiting on the steering and dampers to show up, hopefully today...
For a TCS race on very low grip asphalt, which of the legal tires / wheels would be the best to go with; PN 1016, 1028 or 1029?
Bill S.
Bill S.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (1)
Maybe one of the more experienced driver/mechanics can shed some light
on this
Yeah, that also works on concrete. Back in the late 90s/early 00s when I was taking TC pretty seriously (not to be confused with TC taking me seriously, that never happened) one of our regular locations was in a concrete parking garage that would get sprayed before starting and cleaned when we were done. I'm not going to have that much invested in traction honestly, as long as everyone is on the same surface I think we'll be okay.
Tech Elite
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Tamiya M05 rear carbon shock tower came out.
Also, we are having TCS regional next sunday.
We are expecting good mini turnout, bring your minis and let's race....
FYI, Thanks.
Also, we are having TCS regional next sunday.
We are expecting good mini turnout, bring your minis and let's race....
FYI, Thanks.
Tech Initiate
Where can I buy one of these?
Tech Regular
My thought is that I built the kit 'by the book' (M05 S-Spec #84204) and the shocks come out such that there is very little droop, and very little suspension travel. I suspect this makes it unstable on a parking lot or other rough surface. But is was fantastic on a carpet track!
Tech Apprentice
R/C Tech Elite Member
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