Serpent 710
05-02-2004, 11:01 PM
#9316
Originally posted by jfc_tech
which one is this LRP Comp Charger? im using LRP Pulsar and i can charge, discharge, run-in my motor...everything.
and yes, have to use the clean 12V. anything cheap power supply will be rejected by Pulsar. damn strict unit.
which one is this LRP Comp Charger? im using LRP Pulsar and i can charge, discharge, run-in my motor...everything.
and yes, have to use the clean 12V. anything cheap power supply will be rejected by Pulsar. damn strict unit.
05-03-2004, 12:44 AM
#9317
Re: Camber question.
Originally posted by markp27
For the setup wizards
From the setup book, it is recommended that front camber be setup to achieve equal tyre wear across the front tyres' widths. But for the rear, a slight conical effect should be achieved.
I didn't really understand this with regards to the rears - my thoughts were: if the rears become conical, then surely this changes the effective camber, assuming the tyres were of equal diameter across their width before driving, i.e. if the conical effect equals 2 Degrees across the tyre width and the camber was set to 2 Degrees, then the camber has now been nullified.
Does this not mean that the tyres wear and find their true camber value?
Hopefully I've made myself clear in what I've said above.
Cheers, Mark.
For the setup wizards
From the setup book, it is recommended that front camber be setup to achieve equal tyre wear across the front tyres' widths. But for the rear, a slight conical effect should be achieved.
I didn't really understand this with regards to the rears - my thoughts were: if the rears become conical, then surely this changes the effective camber, assuming the tyres were of equal diameter across their width before driving, i.e. if the conical effect equals 2 Degrees across the tyre width and the camber was set to 2 Degrees, then the camber has now been nullified.
Does this not mean that the tyres wear and find their true camber value?
Hopefully I've made myself clear in what I've said above.
Cheers, Mark.
In the end you just look at the shape the tire gets after running and change the camber setting if you don't like the way it looks. For me I like the fronts to wear flat. But in the rear a slight cone to the inside (inside smaller than out) stabilises the car a little (it's sort of like a little extra toe-in).
You are right in that the coning of the tire slightly reduces the angle between tire and ground but there is nothing you can do about that. If you change camber the tire will wear into a new shape and the end result will be close to the same.
05-03-2004, 01:02 AM
#9318
Re: Re: Camber question.
Originally posted by Julius
You are right in that the coning of the tire slightly reduces the angle between tire and ground but there is nothing you can do about that. If you change camber the tire will wear into a new shape and the end result will be close to the same.
You are right in that the coning of the tire slightly reduces the angle between tire and ground but there is nothing you can do about that. If you change camber the tire will wear into a new shape and the end result will be close to the same.
I was running with a -3 camber at my track, but found that the tyres coned - therefore I thought I'd had too much camber - I then reset it to -2 and then the rears wore evently. My thinking was then that this must be the optimal camber as the most grip is use from the tyres (i.e. no side is being worn more than the other) and my camber angle remains constant.
And my thinking was that if I set my camber to -3 that after a short time then the tyres would wear in such a way (i.e. cone) that I'd end up with a -2 camber anyway.
05-03-2004, 01:47 AM
#9319
Re: Re: Re: Camber question.
Originally posted by markp27
Thanks for the answer Julius!
I was running with a -3 camber at my track, but found that the tyres coned - therefore I thought I'd had too much camber - I then reset it to -2 and then the rears wore evently. My thinking was then that this must be the optimal camber as the most grip is use from the tyres (i.e. no side is being worn more than the other) and my camber angle remains constant.
And my thinking was that if I set my camber to -3 that after a short time then the tyres would wear in such a way (i.e. cone) that I'd end up with a -2 camber anyway.
Thanks for the answer Julius!
I was running with a -3 camber at my track, but found that the tyres coned - therefore I thought I'd had too much camber - I then reset it to -2 and then the rears wore evently. My thinking was then that this must be the optimal camber as the most grip is use from the tyres (i.e. no side is being worn more than the other) and my camber angle remains constant.
And my thinking was that if I set my camber to -3 that after a short time then the tyres would wear in such a way (i.e. cone) that I'd end up with a -2 camber anyway.
Originally posted by PSI Racing
Has anyone tried adding a taper to the rear tires like we do on a 1/8?
Has anyone tried adding a taper to the rear tires like we do on a 1/8?
05-03-2004, 01:53 AM
#9320
Tech Addict
Opel Astra DTM
I have been told that this body give move downforce for better steering
plus its a cool body !
plus its a cool body !
Last edited by Brett.w; 05-03-2004 at 01:59 AM.
05-03-2004, 02:01 AM
#9321
Re: Re: Re: Re: Camber question.
Originally posted by PSI Racing
I guess that relates to my question that I asked earlier.
I guess my question was too vague.
I guess that relates to my question that I asked earlier.
I guess my question was too vague.
05-03-2004, 02:07 AM
#9322
I don't cut them but it's the same as what you mentioned with the camber. With new tires you need to run them in according to the set up you have so the reartires wear conish. If you'll cut them taperred they are good from the start.
05-03-2004, 05:35 AM
#9323
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
Originally posted by Profoxcg
actually , i just checked the site and they do not . =(
I am looking for a stornger shock tower... i saw a picture somewhere, it even had a laid down throtle servo...
actually , i just checked the site and they do not . =(
I am looking for a stornger shock tower... i saw a picture somewhere, it even had a laid down throtle servo...
It is not Kawahara that has the S710 parts, but rather Kai.
They have a really nice graphite conversion kit.
See here:
http://www.kmodels-kai.com/nitro-kai-top-right.htm
I was hoping that some place like The Border in Netherlands would have these available, but not yet. You can probably deal directly with the original company.
If you find a good place that sells the kit, please let us know.
Regards,
05-03-2004, 06:16 AM
#9325
Originally posted by markp27
[B... Where are you in England? If you're in the west, then forget about RC - it rains virtually all the time. The east is pretty dry, except for this time of year It should only last a couple more weeks, then you'll have some good dry weather 
[/B]
[B... Where are you in England? If you're in the west, then forget about RC - it rains virtually all the time. The east is pretty dry, except for this time of year
It should only last a couple more weeks, then you'll have some good dry weather [/B]
05-03-2004, 08:53 AM
#9326
Do you guys remember someone bought a impact dogbones that are now comes in black color just like the regular one? In fact we did receive some new shipments and they are, indeed, in black...
What I would like to ask is, I remember someone over the factory claimming it was in the same quality as Hudy spring steel.. With all do respect... How do you know if it is in the same quality?? they even look weaker than the 710 standard bones.
What I would like to ask is, I remember someone over the factory claimming it was in the same quality as Hudy spring steel.. With all do respect... How do you know if it is in the same quality?? they even look weaker than the 710 standard bones.
05-03-2004, 08:57 AM
#9327
Originally posted by Sow&Steady
Luckily I'm in Surrey .. south east. But then again, I've only managed to race outdoors only once so far. We'll see later this month.
Luckily I'm in Surrey .. south east. But then again, I've only managed to race outdoors only once so far. We'll see later this month.
You'll be able to look forward to a good summer with moderate temps (max around 32 Degrees, average around 23).Cheers, Mark.
05-03-2004, 10:54 AM
#9328
Originally posted by Pyramid
Do you guys remember someone bought a impact dogbones that are now comes in black color just like the regular one? In fact we did receive some new shipments and they are, indeed, in black...
What I would like to ask is, I remember someone over the factory claimming it was in the same quality as Hudy spring steel.. With all do respect... How do you know if it is in the same quality?? they even look weaker than the 710 standard bones.
Do you guys remember someone bought a impact dogbones that are now comes in black color just like the regular one? In fact we did receive some new shipments and they are, indeed, in black...
What I would like to ask is, I remember someone over the factory claimming it was in the same quality as Hudy spring steel.. With all do respect... How do you know if it is in the same quality?? they even look weaker than the 710 standard bones.
Honestly I'm not sure what to believe, but I would be very very very disappointed with Serpent if it's not the truth...
05-03-2004, 11:59 AM
#9329
New rims/tyres to test.
I'm trying out the Arrows tyres/rims hopefully this week. They look nice (see pic), but one curious thing is that the socket for the wheel hub is larger than on the Serpent rims - this means that the wheels have a bit of play before I tighten down the wheel nut 
Hmmm, I'll see how they perform before judging any further.
Hmmm, I'll see how they perform before judging any further.
05-03-2004, 12:01 PM
#9330
Measuring coned tyre diameter
Hi,
Would I be right in thinking that I should take the diameter measurement from the centre of the tyre when the tyre is coned? i.e. if I want to use equal sized tyres front and back, then with the coned tyres a central measurement should then correspond to a central measurement of the non-coned tyres?
Cheers, Mark.
Would I be right in thinking that I should take the diameter measurement from the centre of the tyre when the tyre is coned? i.e. if I want to use equal sized tyres front and back, then with the coned tyres a central measurement should then correspond to a central measurement of the non-coned tyres?
Cheers, Mark.