InitialD

No, more like what they have on some Citroen cars...

InitialD

What about the spacers for the roll centers in the front? The rear?

spawn

iTrader: (6)

Citroen ZX.... if they could just have something intelligent like the honda prelude 4ws where the rear steering is active but changes the profile according to speed. I donno whether I am correct but anything less than 30kmh, the rear will turn opposite of the front to assist in parking and tight turns and above 30kmh it will turn in the same direction to assist stability. However the travel of the rear steering is quite minimal but enough to have a profound effect on the car. Only problem is trying to align the steering probably which requires an expert.

InitialD

Are you suggesting the aide of a fuzzy logic device on our small cars?

Yeah, aligning the normal 1/10 scale car is already cumbersome as it is.

spawn

iTrader: (6)

ya it will probably be too complicated. Anyway I have tried having rear steering change on the NTC3 and it works great. I tried the position where there is more toe-in when the sus. compresses on tight tracks. Easy to turn and steer but due to the weak links and swiping the wall, the toe link went out of alignment.

OB42TC3

most full size cars use some amount of dynamic toe geometry, current gen Celica for example, although I can't remember which direction.

utopian

Where did you buy the 705? Back to the shop and ask for the 20% discount. I get 20% discount from LHS for Serpent parts.

Ed Delgado

iTrader: (3)

For any of you who want to replace the 3mm screws with titanium ones, here's a list:

Quantity-Type-Size

2-Cap Screw 3x18mm
1-Cap Screw 3x14mm
2-Cap Screw 3x16mm
14-Cap Screw 3x12mm
12-Cap Screw 3x10mm
26-Cap Screw 3x8mm
8-Cap Screw 3x6mm
2-C.S. Screw 3x10mm
4-C.S. Screw 3x8mm
6-C.S. Screw 3x6mm
2-Grubscrew 4x6mm
3-Grubscrew 4x4mm
8-Grubscrew 3x10mm
5-Grubscrew 3x8mm
9-Grubscrew 3x4mm
10-Grubscrew 3x3mm

Paolo M

Do you think that are needed? Alluminum saves ore weigth!!

clmbia45

That's why I asked Julius what the dry weight was, with body. If it's significantly over 1725 grams, I'd use titanium screws when I 1st built it. Hate to do that tho and then have to add weight to make tech inspection.

Ed Delgado

iTrader: (3)

I like to use titanium as much as possible, like on steering and shock ball inks, shock tower mounts, etc. I usually use alum on the servos. Here's my new MTX 3.

clmbia45

Very nice!

lawndoggie

Wanchai man! Those bastards only gimmie 15%.... Hey are you heading to PYC this saturday?? Comeon!!!1

GoldFinger

My opinions, use stock screw 1st.
I have no digital balance, but I am sure its way lighter than stock 705. 50gr is minimum.

I found that if I built step 6.7, the 23mm threaded rod just in manual 44.5mm. I cannot align the servo saver with the (90 deg.) servo horn position.
If I keep this setting and adjust the horn to reach servo saver center position, the left turning is cannot reach its max. travel evenwith 30 point difference in EPA.
But luckily I can remove and replace that rod without lifting the upperdeck. I ended up with 40-41mm. And now the horn is 90 deg., the saver was center(in Hudy setup) and the EPA diff is only 4point. You need to replace the ball end.

Im using ftb low profile servo S9550.

Any comment on this?

InitialD

I think the "problem" lies in the different servos used. I think somewhere on the 950 thread at mytsn listed this "problem" on his 950.

The Serpent manual usually likes to refer to the Sanwa/ Airtronics servos as example. I bet they fit just like the measurement in the manual if you were to use a Sanwa servo.