Hot Bodies Cyclone
12-21-2006, 07:40 AM
#6392
Tech Rookie
Cyclone Diff
Using Cyclone in stock class is fine for the original diff screw, it works fine.
In Modified brushless (novak 3.5R or Castle 7700kv) it simply does not hold the power if the track is very fast and wide, if the track is mid to small, than no problem also.
The only way I was able to avoid diff screw to break was using Tamiya 415MSX diff screw, they are same size and diameter compared to the original Cyclone diff screw, just do not have the slot heat, means no adjustments from outside.
Anyway, diff screw does not break anymore using the Tamiya part, but it still unscrew in a fast and wide track using top brushless modified systems, even using thread lock on nut.
One thing that also helped was using Much More diff grease, they last longer than associated diff grease.
Using plastic joints with brushless (top ones) it simply melts the diff plastic joints.
Last week I´ve tried the 3Racing aluminum diff joints, nut and nut holder, they worked very very well, it worth to take and they cost half of the price of the HotBodies aluminum diff joints.
But I am quite sure that the factory drivers must have something different to make their diff to work or they change the rear diff for each race heat.
Paulo
In Modified brushless (novak 3.5R or Castle 7700kv) it simply does not hold the power if the track is very fast and wide, if the track is mid to small, than no problem also.
The only way I was able to avoid diff screw to break was using Tamiya 415MSX diff screw, they are same size and diameter compared to the original Cyclone diff screw, just do not have the slot heat, means no adjustments from outside.
Anyway, diff screw does not break anymore using the Tamiya part, but it still unscrew in a fast and wide track using top brushless modified systems, even using thread lock on nut.
One thing that also helped was using Much More diff grease, they last longer than associated diff grease.
Using plastic joints with brushless (top ones) it simply melts the diff plastic joints.
Last week I´ve tried the 3Racing aluminum diff joints, nut and nut holder, they worked very very well, it worth to take and they cost half of the price of the HotBodies aluminum diff joints.
But I am quite sure that the factory drivers must have something different to make their diff to work or they change the rear diff for each race heat.
Paulo
12-21-2006, 10:30 AM
#6393
Tech Master
Does anyone have the part number for the black, steele dogbones?
12-21-2006, 10:35 AM
#6394
Originally Posted by Static_racing
Does anyone have the part number for the black, steele dogbones?
61044 rears http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNZD2&P=7
12-21-2006, 10:38 AM
#6395
Originally Posted by Static_racing
Does anyone have the part number for the black, steele dogbones?
61043 - Front
61044 - Rear
61398 - ??
Not sure why the front and rear are different part numbers. Maybe because of a one-way vs. diff use issue? Anyway, these are the part numbers.
12-21-2006, 10:47 AM
#6396
I think the 61398 are the V2 versions.
The main difference between the fronts and the rears is that the fronts are slightly thicker.
The main difference between the fronts and the rears is that the fronts are slightly thicker.
12-21-2006, 03:45 PM
#6397
Originally Posted by schreff
Man, I must be a the lucky one with these diff screws. Of course, now that I said that, I'll probably break one every run from here on. 
yyhayyim - The Surikarn car you have coming from me has Associated diff screws in it. I had to drill out the outdrives to make them fit, but it is well worth it. I NEVER broke a diff screw on that car. I ran it in 19t and stock with no issues what so ever.
Also, the standard (black version) Cyclone that I am running right now has the delrin diffs and using the stock diff screws. I've run this car now for about 6 race weekends - mostly all in 19T - and have not had a problem at all.
What confuses me most is how these things just snap. My buddy Larry has gone through probably 6 diff screws already, 3 of which have been Associated screws. We even changed from aluminum outdrives to delrin ones to see if it made a difference and it seems to have helped somewhat - but they still break.
Moral of the story - I have NO idea what is going on with these diff screws. I fully expected my stock ones to snap within a couple packs, but they have been fine since I built the car. I know this doesn't help anyone and it doesn't help me either. Also, I'm not so sure titanium is the way to go. It's a harder material, but could also be more brittle. Maybe a much higher strength steel is the way to go.
Marcos, maybe we should get Breiner to make some diff screws.
yyhayyim - The Surikarn car you have coming from me has Associated diff screws in it. I had to drill out the outdrives to make them fit, but it is well worth it. I NEVER broke a diff screw on that car. I ran it in 19t and stock with no issues what so ever.
Also, the standard (black version) Cyclone that I am running right now has the delrin diffs and using the stock diff screws. I've run this car now for about 6 race weekends - mostly all in 19T - and have not had a problem at all.
What confuses me most is how these things just snap. My buddy Larry has gone through probably 6 diff screws already, 3 of which have been Associated screws. We even changed from aluminum outdrives to delrin ones to see if it made a difference and it seems to have helped somewhat - but they still break.
Moral of the story - I have NO idea what is going on with these diff screws. I fully expected my stock ones to snap within a couple packs, but they have been fine since I built the car. I know this doesn't help anyone and it doesn't help me either. Also, I'm not so sure titanium is the way to go. It's a harder material, but could also be more brittle. Maybe a much higher strength steel is the way to go.
Marcos, maybe we should get Breiner to make some diff screws.
12-21-2006, 04:01 PM
#6399
The best I can come up with is how you tighten your diff.
I never broken a diff screw on my hotbodies or pro4.
It is a steel screw and it streches. If you try to tighten it like a gorilla all at once it weakens the screw and snap shortly with use. If you slowly tighten the screw and build up the tension. .run the car...check for diff slip and adjust as needed you shouldnt have any problems.
People wreck all types of screws at my local track...they just have not learned what I like to call mechanic tight (ie never used any type of torque wrench in their life..lol.)
I dont think it is due to impact as I !@#@# destroyed a wall at full tilt in 19t 2weeks ago and broke a knuckle and that was it.
Jamie
I never broken a diff screw on my hotbodies or pro4.
It is a steel screw and it streches. If you try to tighten it like a gorilla all at once it weakens the screw and snap shortly with use. If you slowly tighten the screw and build up the tension. .run the car...check for diff slip and adjust as needed you shouldnt have any problems.
People wreck all types of screws at my local track...they just have not learned what I like to call mechanic tight (ie never used any type of torque wrench in their life..lol.)
I dont think it is due to impact as I !@#@# destroyed a wall at full tilt in 19t 2weeks ago and broke a knuckle and that was it.
Jamie
12-21-2006, 04:22 PM
#6401
Originally Posted by schreff
Also, I'm not so sure titanium is the way to go. It's a harder material, but could also be more brittle. Maybe a much higher strength steel is the way to go.
