MatsNorway

How is the ideal setup for max tire temperature.

Soft inserts?
Soft springs?
anti squat at the back?
rollbar?
weight F/L? i believed a heavy front would make it understeer.

The car is a T1 fk05. it got soft springs now, a bit too hard damping i think, it also got a lot of anti squat at the back lots of toe inn and a fairly loose rear diff.

running a spool front. optionally i can have oneway spool or pure oneway

Im running some LRP carpet wheels with hard inserts now.
running on carpet.

feels ok at corner exit but too nervous at entry or shance or direction.

I want it to lean towards understeer so i can attack more.
now i have to be as gentle as i can be.

sosidge

A stiffer car is going to put more load in the tyres, as will a heavier one, and one with less damping, or one that is driven aggressively etc etc

It's not going to make much difference though. The tyres themselves and the track is the biggest factor.

If you can change tyres, change them. If not, focus on getting a good balance from your setup, rather than a setup that maximises tyre loads.

MatsNorway

I tried brick hard springs in the front and yes that gave hella lot of front grip. Tried the same in the back but did not get the same effect.

I had not been running it for a few months so im a bit rusty so i might have to retry a few things.

And yes i will try to get back to some sorex wheels. I had that first and they were great. Only problem was that they picked up a bit of dirt and got slippy when i did not run it hard engough or ditched that tire additive.

Buckaroo

iTrader: (3)

You need the XXX Main chassis book and the Hudy set up manual. That answers these, and ANY other chassis/handling questions you will ever have.

Foxxrocket

You don't want max tire temperature. You want the tires at optimum temperature. Like Sosidge said, the track is the biggest factor.

MatsNorway

I do want to know what creates the maximum temp. if i Know how to do it, it makes it easier to avoid when i should have such a rare problem.

the hudy guide does not say much about temp as i can recall.

YZFAndy

Generally the less energy absorbed by chassis flex, springs and inserts the more energy/heat goes into the tyre.

I use stiffer spring quite a bit to get more heat into tyres.

Foxxrocket

If you race on asphalt you're going to base your tire selection on surface temperature, and maybe even air temperature. The track surface is likely to be 10-30 dagrees hotter or cooler than what you normaly feel. You want the softes tires available, without them overheating. Knowing what compound to use at what temperatures is the key.

JR007

Your question is unanswerable because there are so many viariables, that is why you are getting so many answers. The rubber in the tires heat up due to friction, which is caused by the tire slipping over the surface they are on, and also stretching and compressing by the weight of the car and transfer of weight.

So, all of the things you noted affect tire temps. And as said before, the track surface and temperature, as well as your set-up and driving style, all affect how much grip you have.

If you are asking how to stop tires cooking, that is the golden question we all want to know the answer to! Everyone is trying to find the point of maximum force on the tires (grip) without losing traction.

1101

Is there any good way to know when to change to higher temp rubber tyres during a race day??
Educated guess or should I actually measure tyre temp at the end of the race??
Ive 24,28,32's . I was staring with 24's & using 28's as is got hotter

Summer here is just starting (haha) so the ashfelt track can be cool in the morning & hot by about 1pm
Cheers

sosidge

If the tyres start squealing, they're too hot. That's a pretty good indication!

You'll also feel a change in the grip levels mid-race, if it starts to drop off, the tyres may well be getting too hot.

JR007

Over summer you definitely want harder rubber for our outdoor tracks. Down here in Chch I used Sorex 28's in the morning, but by lunch I was on 32's. Some of the guys were using 36's and it's still only spring!
I have 28's and 32's for the most part running in the 13.5 class. A little less critical for stock (silver can).
If you are cooking them, you will often see a "wavey" pattern around the outside edge. Also, the softer they are, the faster they wear. I went through a set of 28's in 4 qualifying runs. They are practice tires now.

ixlr8nz

Funnily enough the set of tyres that served me the best was the sorex 40r's at the South Islands. 15 laps 19s in the final is not an easy task.

Mike

MatsNorway

Thanks for the responses ppl. im thinking softer damping in the back to start with and ofc softer tires and inserts.

Jr. in case you have not noticed im from Norway. its snow time here and most of the time the indoor tracks i have been to feels like they only got some 15 Celsius max. i usually keep my beanie and sometimes my jacket on.

1101

I thought you SI guys drove mainly in snow/ice conditions :-)

After all but 1 Ak outdoor meet in the last 4 months being cancelled due to rain, my rubber race tyres seem to last pretty damn well


the old 24's are pretty worn,front 2 trashed, so I guess they new 24's are 1st morning race only.
Cheers

PS
Any thoughts on RIMS??
I just use Speedmind, they are flexy so never break, and the CA glue doesnt melt them. I need every advantage when it comes to gluing.
Im thinking perhaps the lightest RIM for stock racing, less rotating mass. Or as I just kidding myself ???
Any real performance disadvantage to use flexy rather than stiff rims??