Babblefish

Sorry for jumping in, but since I was online...
Before moving the pressure line to the top of the tank, my muffler/pipe would fill up with unburned fuel from the tank. I had to pour it out every 2 or 3 tanks of running. After the mod, virtually nothing comes out, just a couple of drops. Since the fuel isn't being sucked into the muffler/pipe, the fuel milage goes up.
And yes, my pressure line was configured as suggested by Associated - about 12 inches coiled (about a 1/2" radius) around the carrying handle.

Since some people don't seem to have any problems, my guess is that it's dependent on the engine that's being used. Different brands of engines have different port timings so some may cause more exhaust gas inversion - in other words, more suck back from the pipe into the cylinder. Pipe tuning is also related to this problem. Some engines have different tuning requirements and may induce more or less of this exhaust inversion. Bottom line is this can cause the engine via the muffler/pipe to suck fuel from the tank. Just a guess.

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

boomer - About 4 or 5 pages back there are some pictures and how to's for moding the tank. Once you see the pic, you should be able to figure it out

ChristopherKee

Flash Gordan

Thanks Babblefish I don't think I could have explained that any better.

bbntc3

I tried Piccos and RB's with and with out the tank mod, and neither would run right or keep tune, the serpent tank has a special lid for equal pressure, plus has a baffle in the middle of the tank to stop the washing machine effect. The mod help the fuel out the pipe problem but when you rev up the engine theres so much turbulence in the tank you still get tiny air bubbles in the fuel line, which you all know you can't tune air, so I think the Serpent tank replacement is still the best deal.
Sorry to come of like a prick with you guys but this is a cool site and hate to see it go down the tubes like alot of other sites do to a lack of funding and support.
If you would have read back farther in the threads you would have seen where we done the lid mod to do away with the pipe that you talk about splitting.
I appoligize if I have offended anyone! BB

DJ_GenR8

I'm purchasing a NTC3 within the week. Anyone know of any major flaws or extra assembly instructions??? I'm also kinda confused on what engine to run. Any suggestions??? I hear the Fantoms are pretty nice......I race electric now, and I will race this car, but it is my first nitro.....Thanks for the help

bbntc3

Pay attention when building the 2 speed, its easy to messup, the fuel tank is a problem with most racers, also the steering rack need a stronger spring, some kits had a bad batch of pivot balls, thread diameter was to small, if the pivotballs screw in easy theres a problem. Also buy the steering rack brgs and the brake block brgs, much better and removes most of the slop. Since your just starting with gas I'd buy a Side exhaust engine since you have so much more pipe options. OS hyper or TR engines would be a good engine to start with, they are much easier to tune.
Read bach through all the pages here most problems and cures are here. BB

Boomer

thanks guys - I had glossed over the tank discussion so I didn't remember it. That has been done and it went well.

Tomorrow to break the puppy in and get some time on the pavement.

Tmblewd

Been a long time since I have been here. You'd have to go back to the first 2 or 3 pages to see my name.

My questions to anyone running a Nova Rossi in their car:
Have you had any problems with engine temps are shut downs for now reason? Have you done the fuel tank mod explained in earlier pages of this thread?? And if so, have you noticed any difference in how the car runs?? And to anyone using the blade sway bar, what angle do you have your blade set at and do you really see any difference at the angle??

Thanks to All!!

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Has anyone tried loosening the tank mount screws a 1/2 turn? You'd be amazed at how much it decreases the "washing machine" effect of the tank.

TambokGT

I run the MT12....did the tank mod......my car runs really great. I can now keep up with the 1/8 scale guys. Before doing the tank mod...I can't even start the engine. I don't use sway bars in my touring cars....only in my 1/8 scale. My car handles great without it.

patelladragger

I've read before that if you use a side exhaust kit you have more pipe options. I converted one TC3 from rear exhaust to side and put in an .15 os cvr and I had to cut the header to have a shot at getting an RB X12 pipe to fit. Even with the header cut foams tires bind. The AE pipe is very short, and even it doesn't have gobs of clearance, so you really don't have that many options.

However, from the time I did run the X12 and then later went and bought the AE pipe, I have to say the AE works pretty damn goodl I'm think i'm going to find another one and try putting one on a non AE car it works so well. I could tell noticeable improvement in bottom end and mid torque with the AE over the RB.

Anyone tried the dual chambered rear exhaust pipes yet?

Tmblewd

patelladragger - I have a dual chamber pipe on back order with Tower. I'll let you know if it's worth the money or not when it comes in. I cut the stock header down about 1/4 inch and opened up the exhaust outlet on the stock AE pipe to a #3 drill. It seems to help my MT12.

On my tank, I use 2 orings under it and I don't tighten them all the way down. I have done the tank mod before, but now I have the front fill tanks and I'm kinda leery about doing it to them just yet. I also use High Temp wire insulation around my fuel lines. I got it from where I use to work, I'm trying to find more now.

Impreza

Do you have to cut down the crank on an X12 with the pilot shaft to get it to fit in the NTC3? How do you guy's like the X12?

Thanks!

Boomer

I had to with my MT12, and I love the motor. . .it's ridiculously fast!

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

Impreza - The answer is no. You don't have to modify the RB X12 with the SG shaft to fit in the Nitro TC3.

It should fit perfectly. If you don't have the car yet, read the manual you can find it here Part A Part B Part C Read the page about installing he collet etc, you'll get a better understanding of what is involved. It should be located near the end of "Part B"

If the bell has to much play, I would recommend using 2 shims between the nut and bearing and 2 shims between the screw and flanged bearing. Make sure it spins very freely.

ChristopherKee