copter

Nice chap from our local post office waked me up with a pleasant surprise, my VFS-1, double shottky and pc-link were in the package that I received.

I have been reading this thread a lot, but still I wanted to ask what kind of setup you would recommend for handwound 17x2 motors? I was thinking about testing that modified setup from KO's site to begin with. Any comments and ideas are welcome.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

dennis - for drag brakes. i have yet to mess with the esc setting portion of this. i usually drop my radio settings (Helios) quite a bit. i only race stock and 19T (also with a oneway) and those motors produce enough drag brake for my use. you can use the the settings on your ESC... but use a dbl diode because braking is actually causing a short across the esc. the dbl diode will ensure u dont fry your esc.

start with setting it on your radio first.. then the esc.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

ashto.. and rick.. ive had this happen to me, but it was from a bad crash/hit. i was talking to Robert from Ko and Steve from speedtech and they said what usually happens is this.

you hit something and the force of the impact causes the different boards in the esc (think of them like motherboards on a computer) to move and touch. once they touch. YOUR TOAST. they will short each other out and cause the esc to get fried. the next time you plug it in, it'll do exactly what you said. it'll just keep the motor on full throttle. ive had this happen to my twice. once with a bad t-bone hit. the other was when someone plugged in the esc wrong. (pos. esc wire into the neg plug on the battery.)

so with that in mind, i understand that the esc will not be covered under manu. warranty because its not a defect. the esc was damaged while in use, granted it was proper use, but someone hitting you is a risk we all take.

oh one more thing.. i guess its kinda of unavoidable with the boards touching and shorting in a hard crash. but companies are always trying to make their esc's smaller and faster. the trade off is, in a hard crash, there is less room. and these types of things are more likely to happen.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

copter... im crazy enough to run my stock profiles in 19T. what i do is, i overgear the motor and make up for the lack of punch by setting my esc to make up for it. iget the best of both worlds that way. lots of top end and enough rip in the infield. dont try it unless you got good batteries with good runtime. (410+)

ashto

iTrader: (1)

Hi hebiki,
I had not hit anything hard before this happened. as i had it in my 1/12 scale and it was perfect until i put in my tourer. All i did was take off down the straight and it didnt stop. So that to me sounds like a fault in the speedie.

DavidJoos

I had exactly the same problem as the one you describe. I was using my speedo on an outdoor track, and didn't hit anything. I then bolted in a 9 turn, with all necessary equipment installed. I did 1 aquaintaince lap, and coming onto the straight accelerated hard. I was quite amazed by the speed of my car, but unfortunately it continued to run at full speed. My new 415 was slammed into the barrier and my front suspension broke off. Imho the VFS2000 was not a good speedo. I am using a VFS1 now and it seems to be much more reliable. The most reliable speedo's I've ever used are MRT's however. Never broken a single one.

Rick Draper

David mine did evactly the same thing! I came around the hairpin at Halifax, started to accelerate around the sweeping bend onto the straight and it pinned on full throttle and would not come off throttle. Before this at the reedy race in the UK also at Halifax my car was fine after coming off the first final, then as it was put down for the 2nd final again the speedo pinned on full throttle and exploded. The first one i had blow up was in my new 414 worlds while racing indoors, again i placed the car on the track accelerated and again it blew up once again holding full throttle till it rammed a barrier. The 4th one will not setup and has a throttle like a switch (the throttle was setup fine untill half way through the first run it adjusted itself and will not reset) so thats sat on the side along with the 3rd dead one, both which had been repaired before going wrong again. Rick

copter

Hebiki,

I guess that might work ok for you, but I'm pretty sure that my armature would be done after couple packs with that kind of setup.

I downloaded all 1:10 touring and 1:12 carpet setups into my laptop and browsed those a bit. Setups between 27T, 19T and modified seem to have quite linear difference. 27T has the curve at quite top, modified below middle and 19T in between of those two.

If I would modify that 19T setup and adjust it from the main slider a bit downwards, then it should fit for 17x2 in theory? Or should I adjust every setting separately by counting theoretical value for each by using 19T, 27T and modified setups?

kentech

iTrader: (6)

Can you change the settings of the VFS-1 with the PC Interface or do you need the Multi Setting Adapter to do that? Which one would you recommend getting if I only get one of them?

Thanks.

copter

You can change settings with PC interface cable only, so you don't need Multi Setting Adapter if you only want to use only PC for changing setups. I didn't bought that adapter since I don't like the idea of browsing menus using small LCD screen.

Only thing that bothers me is the lenght of that PC interface cable (~ 40cm / 16"). It's so short that I need to have my car right next to my laptop or behind it. Double lenght would have made this cable a lot more easier to use, but I guess I just need to get some extension cable or just solder more wire to it.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

slide the whole thing down and have your lowest frequency at around the mid 20s.... and adjust from there. its recommended that you dont go below a certain number (it was 17 for the VFS-2000.. check the drive frequency comparsion sheet i posted several pages back.) for runtime issues / comm wear.. like you mentioned above.

17x2 is a very mild mod but still. dont wanna risk premature wear on your comm or dumping.

antoniop

The setting adapter is incredibly versatile for making changes at the track.

Much better than carrying the laptop around. It's less graphic but you can still save 3 memories on the device and change them very easy.

I just take several blank setting sheets with me in case I need a more "graphical" view of things.

It's an excellent ESC, and the added benefit of making our own profile to suit the motor is unbeatable.

copter

Is it possible to transfer setups between VFS-1 Manager (PC) and Multi Setting Adapter?

I guess it's possible to use VFS-1 Manager and PC-link to transfer setup from PC to VFS-1 and then transfer it from VFS-1 to Multi Setting Adapter, but is there more straight solution for this kind of usage?

berger

iTrader: (1)

Ordered some more KO gear to go in my cuda, anouther 2343 servo (run one in my xray too) and the speedo with setting adaptor for running stock. Cant wait till it arrives.

Hebiki

iTrader: (26)

oooo nice line up.