Durango DEX210 Thread
#7142
#7143
Original concept is here.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83523
#7144
Compared to the 22- More rear traction, better steering, and again more tunable. Only place I feel the 22 is better is on rough tracks or very fast, sweeping layouts. And that goes out the window with the long chassis- we run the +8 CF chassis from Tresrey.
They are all good cars, and all can win. I have great appreciation for the engineering and design of the TD cars, and above all we (mostly my brother Cush) are faster and more comfortable with them. Once the DESC210 hits I will no longer have anything but TD cars in our racing stable.
#7145
Tech Master
iTrader: (10)
Yes, It's a direct replacment for the original part. The aluminium parts are designed to keep the ball studs in the original position and plain, and only weigh 8.4g (4.2g each)
Original concept is here.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83523
Original concept is here.
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=83523
Thanks guy's
#7146
#7147
He's running the car in MM4, so the weight is a different tuning option. Cush's buggy has the Cream under servo weight and battery weight up front. You're all good
#7149
For the shocks, are these worth getting, or are the kit ones OK (I seem to have read this somewhere over the last several hundred pages):
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...or-Oil-Shock-8
Any "hints" for building the shocks?
SoCal
#7150
Tech Regular
iTrader: (7)
Anybody that is running on outdoor large tracks should not hesitate to try rm4. I had struggled when the track dusted over with rm3 for weeks. Without changing anything other than going from rm3 to rm4, the buggy was a totally different animal. Traction went through the roof and the buggy was much more stable in the loose sections. IMO, this is what makes the 210 better than the competition. Desc210, here I come.
#7151
Thanks Jonny5
For the shocks, are these worth getting, or are the kit ones OK (I seem to have read this somewhere over the last several hundred pages):
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...or-Oil-Shock-8
Any "hints" for building the shocks?
SoCal
For the shocks, are these worth getting, or are the kit ones OK (I seem to have read this somewhere over the last several hundred pages):
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...or-Oil-Shock-8
Any "hints" for building the shocks?
SoCal
_
Chamfer the shock cap with a razor/xacto/large countersink. This helps seat the cap more fully over the oring.
Sand the spacer that goes between the orings to shorten it a bit, a half mm or so. Then when the orings swell (they all do, no matter the manufacturer), the orings have room to expand.
Use green slime, liberally.
And I double bleed my rear shocks. I always run zero rebound (really because I can make them consistent more than anything), but with a single bleed they always got some rebound after pumping them up by hand. So I pump the shaft 10 times, and re-bleed them. I figure it's an emulsion shock anyway so it has to have air anyway. I think not doing this is what causes some people to have issues with their shock caps, but we have never lost one (aside from gnarly, arm removing wrecks). The fronts for some reason are fine with a single bleed- odd, but that's what I've seen.
It's really a standard build IMO. I did the same stuff on my AE shocks.
#7152
It's a half a pound heavy if you run a full sized pack. I'm surprised people are adding weight at all! The buggy has more than enough tuning options to adjust the setup to where you don't need weight.
#7153
when a track is a little bumpy, somewhat blown out or bad shape.
What do you guys prefer? less anti-squat or more anti-squat ?
What do you guys prefer? less anti-squat or more anti-squat ?
#7154
#7155