HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
09-18-2006, 12:17 AM
Yes you will need to buy the 73478 part tree just for that part. If you are hitting stuff, you will eventually need the other parts on the tree. You will have the upper and lower front arms, the rear arm and the rear upright. Extra wheel hexes are always good to have around too. I know your kit comes with the alum. clamping hex's, but you never know what might happen at the races. All that for 7 or 8 bucks.
09-18-2006, 04:19 AM
Originally Posted by boggysv
the noob strikes again!!
well, actually, I popped my steering knuckle last night, and I lost the part shown in the picture.
is it a generic part, or do I have to get the whole set of arms from HPI again?
2nd problem
initially on stock setup, my rears are wearing more on the inside, hence i decreased camber by 4 turns each side. (sorry, i don not have a camber gauge).
now it is wearing evenly, but the rear of the car seems to like to fling out after long sweeping turns. Any remedies?
car is a hara kit, with the AL mid brace, and mazda 6 body, 35F,35R.
well, actually, I popped my steering knuckle last night, and I lost the part shown in the picture.
is it a generic part, or do I have to get the whole set of arms from HPI again?
2nd problem
initially on stock setup, my rears are wearing more on the inside, hence i decreased camber by 4 turns each side. (sorry, i don not have a camber gauge).
now it is wearing evenly, but the rear of the car seems to like to fling out after long sweeping turns. Any remedies?
car is a hara kit, with the AL mid brace, and mazda 6 body, 35F,35R.
The mazda 6 is somewhat a loose body. Try a parma m or stratus 3.1 that alone could cure the problem.
09-18-2006, 04:21 AM
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
I have a new in packet rear swaybar that I bought only a few months ago, so they are still in production. One of the best optional parts for the car, even though it is pricey.
09-18-2006, 09:28 AM
car
just a ? where did the R40 go im not seeing them anymore i had 1 but they disapeared just curious no intent 
09-18-2006, 02:31 PM
Originally Posted by ProE
Do you have a part number, and where did you buy it from?
09-18-2006, 02:33 PM
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Why is it one of the best?
Mike Swauger uses one on his car all the time.
09-19-2006, 08:19 PM
Tech Initiate
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Increase rear camber by 1/4 turn back.
The mazda 6 is somewhat a loose body. Try a parma m or stratus 3.1 that alone could cure the problem.
The mazda 6 is somewhat a loose body. Try a parma m or stratus 3.1 that alone could cure the problem.
Thanks, would try it out and report back.
Body wise...the gf wants a M3 body
beter get what she wants first, else I would lose a partner at the tracks.
09-20-2006, 01:27 PM
Originally Posted by 20 SMOKE
r40 for sale cheep http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=129519
09-20-2006, 02:29 PM
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by boggysv
the noob strikes again!!
well, actually, I popped my steering knuckle last night, and I lost the part shown in the picture.
well, actually, I popped my steering knuckle last night, and I lost the part shown in the picture.
09-20-2006, 05:07 PM
Tech Master
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Originally Posted by GBagRacing
Superglue that plastic part into the part #ed 56461. DO NOT get the glue on the beveled part that sits against the ball. You will never loose that part again.
09-20-2006, 05:31 PM
Well, I think I'mma enter my R40 in the Region 1 Warmup event and the Champ event however I'm still waiting for my setup gauges. Without them it's a trial an error. I may try some front droop to get rid of the steering as I found it effective on my last R40. The car doesn't have much upgrades, but it's still quite a performer IMO. I just need to purchase a sedan body and tires.
09-22-2006, 10:55 PM
Tech Initiate
I dont understand, why am I breaking belts as if the car hates me?
I heeded the advice given here, and only play on track, yet I broke 2 belts in 2 plays. Heck, I even replaced all the pulleys and belts before this breaking frenzy began. Thank the lord my middle belt is still fine.
1st day, broke front urethane belt after 7 tanks, went home to install used rubber belt, and raise ride height.
2nd day, broke rear urethane belt after 9tanks, front belt still holding up fine.
(rear belt is one perch loose from the middle point)
also, regarding the mtx3 clutch conversion. during the last few tanks on the 2nd day, i had problems launching the car from low speeds. Sometimes it wont even grab after the 2speed shifted. Is that normal for the stock r40 clutch?
Would it be a good time to go for the conversion?
I heeded the advice given here, and only play on track, yet I broke 2 belts in 2 plays. Heck, I even replaced all the pulleys and belts before this breaking frenzy began. Thank the lord my middle belt is still fine.
1st day, broke front urethane belt after 7 tanks, went home to install used rubber belt, and raise ride height.
2nd day, broke rear urethane belt after 9tanks, front belt still holding up fine.
(rear belt is one perch loose from the middle point)
also, regarding the mtx3 clutch conversion. during the last few tanks on the 2nd day, i had problems launching the car from low speeds. Sometimes it wont even grab after the 2speed shifted. Is that normal for the stock r40 clutch?
Would it be a good time to go for the conversion?
Last edited by boggysv; 09-23-2006 at 01:05 AM.
09-22-2006, 11:45 PM
If you're braking belts there could be a couple of things.
1) Check to see that every thing moves freely, belts, shafts, diffs.
2) Check that your wheel diameters are about the same size. Your whole drive train is one mechanism that is connected through belts. If your going in a straight line, the front and rear shafts will rotate at the same RPM (unless your using other gearing). If your wheel diameters differs from front to rear, they will spin at different RPM. This will put alot of strain on the belts and could brake them.
I had the same problem when I used my car for the first time. I fitted new tyres onto the car and the problem dissapeared. In general the rear tyres wear more than the front. When ever I see a difference in the front to rear diameters, I true the front tyres down to the same size as the rears.
The clutch on this car has been talked about many times on this forum. Do a search and you will find alot of posts. Some guys use the stock clutch without any problems. Some fit only the mtx4 grey clutch shoe, and the other guys fit the whole mtx3 clutch kit.
If your clucth has work fine but is slipping now, check the adjustable nut in your clutch, it tends to tighten itself. Loosen it back if this is the problem. So of the post that were made before, mention the use of locktight to keep the nut in a set position.
Good luck with this.
1) Check to see that every thing moves freely, belts, shafts, diffs.
2) Check that your wheel diameters are about the same size. Your whole drive train is one mechanism that is connected through belts. If your going in a straight line, the front and rear shafts will rotate at the same RPM (unless your using other gearing). If your wheel diameters differs from front to rear, they will spin at different RPM. This will put alot of strain on the belts and could brake them.
I had the same problem when I used my car for the first time. I fitted new tyres onto the car and the problem dissapeared. In general the rear tyres wear more than the front. When ever I see a difference in the front to rear diameters, I true the front tyres down to the same size as the rears.
The clutch on this car has been talked about many times on this forum. Do a search and you will find alot of posts. Some guys use the stock clutch without any problems. Some fit only the mtx4 grey clutch shoe, and the other guys fit the whole mtx3 clutch kit.
If your clucth has work fine but is slipping now, check the adjustable nut in your clutch, it tends to tighten itself. Loosen it back if this is the problem. So of the post that were made before, mention the use of locktight to keep the nut in a set position.
Good luck with this.
09-23-2006, 03:34 AM
Urethanes seem to snap. I had mine to test around and the rear snapped first race. Swapped back to rubber and im good.
09-24-2006, 10:50 PM
How do you guys got around the fact that the rear body post sit right under the rear wing?