Team Losi JRXS
#5086
Tech Initiate
Geoff,
I might just take the age prize at 63.
Just completed building my JRXS. Thanks to this thread I was able to address a lot of issues, however I also still have the rear toe problem. Will be trying replacement hubs to see if this cures the problem, and hopefully Todd wil have some answers soon.
Just a note on another problem i noticed during building, the front "C" blocks were off one was 4* whil;e the other appeared to be 2*. Replaced the 2 with a 4 (after dremmiling inside) I had from my XXX S and all is fine.
Also by cutting some of the meet off the front of the servo mounts and using an Ofna S/S I am able to go up to 40 pinion with 128 spur.
Need to purchase new speed control and paint body before I get to drive. Will be using old faithful XXX S till then.
Nuff said!
John T
I might just take the age prize at 63.
Just completed building my JRXS. Thanks to this thread I was able to address a lot of issues, however I also still have the rear toe problem. Will be trying replacement hubs to see if this cures the problem, and hopefully Todd wil have some answers soon.
Just a note on another problem i noticed during building, the front "C" blocks were off one was 4* whil;e the other appeared to be 2*. Replaced the 2 with a 4 (after dremmiling inside) I had from my XXX S and all is fine.
Also by cutting some of the meet off the front of the servo mounts and using an Ofna S/S I am able to go up to 40 pinion with 128 spur.
Need to purchase new speed control and paint body before I get to drive. Will be using old faithful XXX S till then.
Nuff said!
John T
#5087
Tech Adept
63! thats not fair! all those extra birthday and Xmas presents
Geoff
Geoff
#5088
Originally posted by J Tronzano
I might just take the age prize at 63.
I might just take the age prize at 63.
Bill
#5089
Originally posted by 403forbidden
yeah you are so right!
I wish I would have thought of using that joke first just as much as I wish I was using a 2400 baud modem hahahaha!
yeah you are so right!
I wish I would have thought of using that joke first just as much as I wish I was using a 2400 baud modem hahahaha!
Now that’s a classic!
#5091
Tech Initiate
Now that we have established the age pecking order, does anybody have an answer to this one;
The JRXS instructions state that the new front cd's were specifically designed for running a spool in front, but we should use them for all drive set-ups.
My question, if the new cd's were specifically designed for use with a spool, would it matter if you run regular cvd's when not runnig a spool ie. diff infront ?
The JRXS instructions state that the new front cd's were specifically designed for running a spool in front, but we should use them for all drive set-ups.
My question, if the new cd's were specifically designed for use with a spool, would it matter if you run regular cvd's when not runnig a spool ie. diff infront ?
#5092
As far as i know and have tried, you could go right ahead and run a normal cvd, but this will be a little bit smoother in and out of the corners.
#5093
The LCD's imo should be used all the time, as they take out all wheel wobble at lock. Which I think will give the car a more consistant, smoother steering feel (not that I'd notice w/ my limited skillz).
Also, anyone know what is ment by setting droop 4mm above ride height. I don't get it
Thanks,
E
Also, anyone know what is ment by setting droop 4mm above ride height. I don't get it
Thanks,
E
#5094
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
The wording of the manual is a bit sketchy regarding the usage of the LCVD, but the jist is .....
The LCVD allows much steeper angles between the axle stub and axle shaft, which shows the greatest benefit when running a spool, but will be smoothest when running any style diff, in comparison to a standard 1-pin CVD.
The LCVD allows much steeper angles between the axle stub and axle shaft, which shows the greatest benefit when running a spool, but will be smoothest when running any style diff, in comparison to a standard 1-pin CVD.
#5095
Originally posted by EricF
Also, anyone know what is ment by setting droop 4mm above ride height. I don't get it
Thanks,
E
Also, anyone know what is ment by setting droop 4mm above ride height. I don't get it
Thanks,
E
instead of taking off the wheels and using a gauge on the arm, you leave the wheels on the car. Do your rideheigh like normal to say 5mm. Then with the car race ready tighten or loosen the droop screws enough to make the chasis able to go to 9mm off the ground before the tire lifts from the ground.
#5096
Originally posted by POOKYT
At what locations on the chassis are you guys using to measure for ride height? Talk to a brutha!!!
Brant
Tech Director
B-Main Motorsports
At what locations on the chassis are you guys using to measure for ride height? Talk to a brutha!!!
Brant
Tech Director
B-Main Motorsports
#5097
Originally posted by rcracingkid
To set droop this is used. Il try my best to explain it.
instead of taking off the wheels and using a gauge on the arm, you leave the wheels on the car. Do your rideheigh like normal to say 5mm. Then with the car race ready tighten or loosen the droop screws enough to make the chasis able to go to 9mm off the ground before the tire lifts from the ground.
To set droop this is used. Il try my best to explain it.
instead of taking off the wheels and using a gauge on the arm, you leave the wheels on the car. Do your rideheigh like normal to say 5mm. Then with the car race ready tighten or loosen the droop screws enough to make the chasis able to go to 9mm off the ground before the tire lifts from the ground.
E
#5099
Originally posted by karlo511
right behind the front arms and in front of the rears
right behind the front arms and in front of the rears
Brant