XXXDad

iTrader: (198)

When you make chassis so ridged it takes away traction, so in a high bite situation you can get away with it. Outdoor: stick with the flex from the stock unit. Make sure the threaded rod is as far as it can go into the plastic eye.

SoCalMX

iTrader: (5)

Thanks... Yea, I would bottom out the allthread rod into the plastic, I guess my driving needs much improving!

Just ordered the rigid set as all my 2.0 sees is the indoor track.

hkrob

iTrader: (18)

I have been running the mip braces since they came out both indoors and out. I did not notice a loss in traction when running on indoor clay tracks I see no down side to running the mip braces with the stock chassis.However I did run them with a BCE chassis and did not like the way it drove.

Thunder Trail

iTrader: (66)

Sounds like a big improvement. Do they take out caster or put more caster in?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Awesome idea from Imagine It Graphics. Way cleaner then shoe goo.

bds81175

iTrader: (20)

That is a slick idea. I have been wetting a finger and smoothing the shoe goo out too. Works really well, you can spread it uniform and relatively thin and it remains clear and doesn't stick to your finger.

symmetricon

iTrader: (27)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw1i...e_gdata_player
Roar nats sct A1

JEFFs SC10

iTrader: (15)

The stock braces SUCK and are known to break. I run the MIP's and love them. It's a known thing that they stock plastic sucks.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Can you break the stock plastic ends on the stock braces. Sure. If you thread the set screw all the way into the plastic piece to fill in the hole in the plastic end first it strengthens it significantly and they last much longer.

The stock ones allow more torsion then the MIP ones. It is a tuning thing. There was a reason for the way TLR did it.

rivalshad

iTrader: (16)

I 2nd that. The first one I built for my bro I threaded it in the rod first and it broke on the first night. I then screwed it in the eyelet on his and mine and haven't broke one on either truck in a year.

Roken

I broke my front one only once on a string nose dive. Then assembled like the man says and have had no problems.

Jack Bonhomme

I installed the new 15 deg +2mm front castor blocks and +0.5mm rear hexes in my version 1.0 for this past Sunday's outdoor season opener at Barnstormers in NY. The new handling was quite impressive. This is a large 1/8th scale sized medium grip track, which gets fairly bumpy by the end of the day. I was able to TQ 4wd SC with my truck. I believe I was the only person running the new parts. My truck drove noticeably smoother and was very stable. It was not darty to small steering inputs, and seemed to have more corner exit steering on power. The steering felt more like it was coming from the front end, and less from having the rear end break free and rotating. The truck was fairly planted overall. But I could still pitch it into a turn if I needed to. But with no sudden loss of rear grip. I did have to raise the front body posts up 1 hole in order to keep the now wider front end from rubbing the front tires on the body's wheel wells. Other than that I made no other changes to my usual setup. I still have to drive it again on a small indoor track to see if these new parts benefit the steering and handling as well as they did on the big outdoor track. But so far it seems like money well spent!

Maximos

after assembling the car i noticed that the driveshaft that connects the middle and the front differential is not completely straight. i also checked a brand new i got as a spare part when i purchased the kit and i noticed that it is also a bit bent. anyone else had the same issue?

Casper

iTrader: (34)

My front center shaft has been bent for a while. It does not seem to affect much and I have left it. I am about to replace most of my drive line as it has been almost a season and a half and time for a refresh but yeah some of them are slighly bent. You can contact Horizon Customer Service.

JoeC

iTrader: (120)

I have a question about bump steer. A lot of the setup sheets I see have a 2mm washer added for bump steer. Would I be correct to assume that the 2mm washer adds bump steer (which I believe adds toe out at full compression)?