InitialD

Boca's prices for the big bearing is USD 41.95 and USD 34.95 on the smaller front bearing.

Sow&Steady

Yes, Mark Green says they're more consistent too.

Sow&Steady

D, Mark forgot to mention to you that with his LSN only at 1.25 turns out, he is having to use 0.5mm of gap in the carb (Idle speed).

I think this is why his engine idles nicely but as soon as touches his throttle to speed up the engine gurgles and bogs down ... the HSN is richer than it should be to compensate for the small gap.

Right now if he leans the LSN further it doesn't help the bogging down issue right?

Sow&Steady

A new era begins with the new kid on the Serpent Team USA.

markp27

Yep, this is true. But when I find that the engine gurgles and cuts out - if I lean the LSN (that's why it's at 1.25 turns out) then I can run ok.

Thanks to Sow, I'm getting to know how to setup the engine better - I think it all started by running the LSN rich, but with too low an idle speed. As soon as I took the glow plug driver away the engine died - I assumed this meant that the LSN was too rich, but Sow was saying that it is probably just that I don't have the idle set high enough.
This then led me to having a pretty lean LSN - and then when I pressed the throttle at bit and the engine cut out, I was thinking the LSN was still too lean and I leaned it further. Until it would pick up - but it looks like it was the HSN all along.

Cheers, Mark.

InitialD

I guess it's best to set the idle back to 1 mm thereabouts, reset the LSN and HSN and start back again. If done correct, it'll be spot on most of the time.

I took out my STS engine after keeping it aside for some time and decided to run it on the 710. I had a hell of a time tuning it. Told myself just go back to stock rich setting and set it from there. Bang. It was spot on after that.

Sow&Steady

FW05, not hardcore ... perfection

Believe it or not, I've driven my 710 for nearly a year and done 6 big races. I have never broken the front shock shafts. One rear one broke when it was thumped at full speed by another car during a race. It was hard enough to drive my car into the boards and that impact cracked the upper bumper plate (that's how hard it was).

The rest are good performance enhancing mods done to perfection. You don't need to do these to be competitive right out of the box.

I recommend doing these mods when you've exhausted the car's abilities and used the really good set-up guide that comes with the kit. Do them at your next major rebuild .. I'm doing some of them right now.

Just my 2-cents.

InitialD

Did you do the pinch test Mark? The other way to check the LSN is to determine if the engien can idle for about 20 to 30 seconds or so after a good rev and you're able to give it a good hard rev without the engine stalling afterwards. If it gurgles and stalls, then the LSN is on the rich side.

The way I described earlier is to set the LSN in the ball park after richening it. This is done with the idle set to open about 1 mm thereabouts at neutral position. Once that is gotten, then start to lean out the HSN till you get very crisp high revs. Put the car on track to tune further. Adjust the HSN, LSN and the idle screw 5 to minutes plus minus to get you the correct setting.

It is important to set the idle correct at about 1 mm opening or so. Once that is set, you only need to play around plus minus 10 minute needle movements to tune the idle. That's all. If you're on the rich side on the LSN, the engine will not idle well and you will tend to open the idle bigger. This will come to a point where the engine will overheat because of too much air going into the engine at idle.

Sow&Steady

Aha! *SowSteady** claims his fame by managing to "draw out" Hellion who claimed he would NEVER come back to this forum!

Well no Hellion, not a shot at you at all ... more a shot at some of my compatriots back home .. you should see some the wing mods on their Stratus. I guaratee you even Protoform will dispute that it was their bodyshell!

Anyway, I don't think you should take those guys in the other thread too seriously. You come on back and show us your innovative body work.

Schrijver99

Does anybody have extreem wear on their Diff axles and on the pins on the driveshafts?
Mine are already wornout and i haven't run more than 6 liters, also i'm not the only one with this problem on my track.
I want to know if this only appearce on a high speed track (like mine) or also on technical short tracks?

I wish Hudy will make some upgrades for Serpent soon.
In the meantime if taken out the pins from my Impulse Pro shafts and put them in my 710 shafts

Sow&Steady

Murnan believes this engine is the punchiest one he has ever tried. Is this your experience too?

Sow&Steady

Now now now ... that can't be legal .

InitialD

Yes, these are the outdrive wear on the rear ball diff that myself and crashed_1 was talking about a few pages ago. The dogbone pins create a dimple in the outdrives and makes the rear end of the car "jump" when you gas on the starter box. It will come very bad when the car will start to vibrate and hop on the track. At the end, this dimple will somehow lock the dogbone side play movement and binds the rear suspension. So for no apparent reason, your rear end will spin out.

Are the pins on the PRO shafts better? I actually do not have any problems on the pins of the 710 dogbones. Just the outdrives.

KevinS

I don't believe it.

InitialD