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Old 07-08-2010, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by stiltskin
I like the 6 cell chassis better than the lipo chassis on asphalt.
Are you talking about the soft Lipo chassis or the stiff?
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by stiltskin
I like the 6 cell chassis better than the lipo chassis on asphalt.
Maybe u should double check your setup. Fairtrace was killing it last weekend outdoors with the lipo chassis.. but he could probably use a tc4 and be fast too
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Old 07-08-2010, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by stiltskin
I like the 6 cell chassis better than the lipo chassis on asphalt.
I thought that was the case as well, so last weekend I went to the track with the exact same setup on both cars, except one had the stiff lipo and one had the stock rubber 6 cell chassis on it. My 6 cell car was ok, but my Lipo chassis car was unbelievable. Like real real good. Now I know tracks can vary and such but at a med/med high bite asphalt track like Jackson the stiffer chassis always feels better and faster to me.

It all depends on the level of traction you have on your track. I think the least stiff of the new lipo chassis's and med or carpet topdeck would probably be good on a lower bite track. I like the feel of the car without the battery tray on it.

Keep in mind I didn't run the new battery holder, I just used the old weight braces front and rear stoppers and taped the battery in and balanced it with weights.
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Old 07-08-2010, 04:56 PM
  #4834  
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace
I thought that was the case as well, so last weekend I went to the track with the exact same setup on both cars, except one had the stiff lipo and one had the stock rubber 6 cell chassis on it. My 6 cell car was ok, but my Lipo chassis car was unbelievable. Like real real good. Now I know tracks can vary and such but at a med/med high bite asphalt track like Jackson the stiffer chassis always feels better and faster to me.

It all depends on the level of traction you have on your track. I think the least stiff of the new lipo chassis's and med or carpet topdeck would probably be good on a lower bite track. I like the feel of the car without the battery tray on it.

Keep in mind I didn't run the new battery holder, I just used the old weight braces front and rear stoppers and taped the battery in and balanced it with weights.
+1 true
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Old 07-08-2010, 05:13 PM
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When I built my ltd. ed. car, the lipo chassis in the kit seemed so stiff compared to the TC5R and even the T3, I went straight to the 6 cell. A little flex in the chassis always seems to make the car feel more "locked in" to me. Am I wrong here?
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Old 07-08-2010, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace
I like the feel of the car without the battery tray on it. Keep in mind I didn't run the new battery holder, I just used the old weight braces front and rear stoppers and taped the battery in and balanced it with weights.
^^ sounds like a familiar conversation we had a few weeks ago, eh Tony? ^^
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by pcar951
When I built my ltd. ed. car, the lipo chassis in the kit seemed so stiff compared to the TC5R and even the T3, I went straight to the 6 cell. A little flex in the chassis always seems to make the car feel more "locked in" to me. Am I wrong here?
As larry said, it depends on your track. Sometimes too locked in is just slow. I picked up .3ths in one round with larry's changes, one of which was a thicker top deck
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeXray
As larry said, it depends on your track. Sometimes too locked in is just slow. I picked up .3ths in one round with larry's changes, one of which was a thicker top deck
I like to try Larry set up with Lipo chassis! it is online ?
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Old 07-08-2010, 09:44 PM
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I'm still hoping the LiPo chassis works for me, it just looks so slick, oh and I dropped the $40+ on the mounts so I'm committed to make it work anyway.


Oh and back in the world of gear diffs, I did noticed this today...
http://www.spec-r.com/specrr2/module....php?storyid=8

Being 40T will the Yokomo diff work in a Photon?, or will the width end up being wrong?, I just mention is cause no one is sure yet how good the mini diff will end up being.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Skitee
Will you have spare parts for rebuilding ?
Originally Posted by RC MARKET
rebuild kit have case , gear & o-ring,
later release !
according to the Manufacturer of the µ-Pro Diff,

it is preassembled and not rebuildable. and only for Stock classes as the Torque is what wears them out (not the speed),

the high Pitch of the gears is what allowed them to make it so small but also why it does not last in high torque classes.

and it is also not advisable to change the oil from what it comes with it,

basically when it wears out you throw it out an buy a new one,

I should have them in AUS by next week,
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:49 PM
  #4841  
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Good info Rod thanks, so this diff would be best suited from 10.5 to 21.5 then ?
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Skitee
Good info Rod thanks, so this diff would be best suited from 10.5 to 21.5 then ?
in modified they mentioned that it had a MTTF of about 20 runs,

I would still be a little wary with 10.5 and the "turbo" ESC's we are all running now,

I am interested to see feedback as to how long they last with different classes of motors.
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:15 PM
  #4843  
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Originally Posted by L.Fairtrace
I thought that was the case as well, so last weekend I went to the track with the exact same setup on both cars, except one had the stiff lipo and one had the stock rubber 6 cell chassis on it. My 6 cell car was ok, but my Lipo chassis car was unbelievable. Like real real good. Now I know tracks can vary and such but at a med/med high bite asphalt track like Jackson the stiffer chassis always feels better and faster to me.

It all depends on the level of traction you have on your track. I think the least stiff of the new lipo chassis's and med or carpet topdeck would probably be good on a lower bite track. I like the feel of the car without the battery tray on it.

Keep in mind I didn't run the new battery holder, I just used the old weight braces front and rear stoppers and taped the battery in and balanced it with weights.
I've been holding off on getting the LiPo deck, our track has good bite but it is really bumpy in places. Would you suggest the medium lipo deck with a foam top deck or a stiff lipo deck with a rubber top deck ?
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:27 PM
  #4844  
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Originally Posted by Rod M
in modified they mentioned that it had a MTTF of about 20 runs,

I would still be a little wary with 10.5 and the "turbo" ESC's we are all running now,

I am interested to see feedback as to how long they last with different classes of motors.
I assume that's running rubber so that number could be much lower running foam since there's considerably more load on the drive train, in which case would this diff then hold up well to stock classes running foam ?
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:30 PM
  #4845  
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Originally Posted by Rod M
in modified they mentioned that it had a MTTF of about 20 runs,

I would still be a little wary with 10.5 and the "turbo" ESC's we are all running now,

I am interested to see feedback as to how long they last with different classes of motors.
I'm glad I slow and haven't order the gear diff. Even though I race 17.5, it's the not rebuildable and throw it out that I don't like.

I wonder if the spec-r for Yokomo (coming) or either of the two others will work with little mod.
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