Kyosho Ultima RB6 & RB6.6 Car Thread
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Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
I've tried a number of things to improve traction including
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff
Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?
The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff
Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?
The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
^^ What he said. Definitely Ball diff is the way to go.
I've been running my shocks on front since beginning to drive this buggy for more rotation. Did this based on the performance of shocks on front of my other buggies (Xb2 and b6) I wouldn't run those buggies any other way. But, the rb6 has so much steering am contemplating running them on the rear. Anyone opine on their experience on front vs rear shock placement?
There is no doubt that a ball diff is better on medium grip. We are running a 3 gear laydown on a dirt grooved track and its hooked up. The rb6 steers in hard. I find myself balancing steering and rear grip. Rear grip always overrides my other needs. It's looks like gears diff want to keeps rotating on corner exit. Post up your setup and which track you race at.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (14)
I've tried a number of things to improve traction including
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff
Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?
The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff
Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?
The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff
I've tried a number of things to improve traction including
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff
Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?
The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff
Reducing shock oil from 30 to 27.5
Making my rear links longer
Moving out the shock on the rear shock tower
And using the same tires as the guys that are going fast at my home track
I've had a few people tell me to switch from a gear diff to a ball diff
Anyone else agree that a ball diff for some reason give bear rear traction?
The changes I've made to this point have made things better but still looking to know if a ball diff really makes traction better over a gear diff
At my local track we run slicks all the time and wheelie out of every corner but its still not enough to warrant a gear diff. We have tried it and it actually took grip away from the car on our track.
From what you have explained without knowing the exact surface you will be better off with a ball diff as others have mentioned.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
I've been running my shocks on front since beginning to drive this buggy for more rotation. Did this based on the performance of shocks on front of my other buggies (Xb2 and b6) I wouldn't run those buggies any other way. But, the rb6 has so much steering am contemplating running them on the rear. Anyone opine on their experience on front vs rear shock placement?
I would have to be really struggling for rear grip to move the shocks to the back of the arms.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
I was so confident in the laydown configuration, I turned the standup rb6.6 into a 4 gear laydown car.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
I am so confused on how to build this car. There are so many options and I think I know where to start, but I am not sure. I am building a 17.5 car, the track is indoor/outdoor clay. They add dirt glue to the dirt so traction is good.
I was thinking of going 4-gear laydown with shocks on front of arms. I wanted to use the gear diff with 3k in it for easy/Bullitt proof diff. There is only one other RB6.6 at the track and he is running the 3-gear lay-down with shocks on the back of the arms. I was thinking the 4-gear would add more mechanical grip to the car so I should be good to go with shocks on the front of the arms.
Also, how many of you have built the car stock with no aluminum up-grades?
I was thinking of going 4-gear laydown with shocks on front of arms. I wanted to use the gear diff with 3k in it for easy/Bullitt proof diff. There is only one other RB6.6 at the track and he is running the 3-gear lay-down with shocks on the back of the arms. I was thinking the 4-gear would add more mechanical grip to the car so I should be good to go with shocks on the front of the arms.
Also, how many of you have built the car stock with no aluminum up-grades?
I built a gear diff for my Rb6.6 laydown and it is not smooth or anything compared to the gear diff I just built for my B6d. Night and day comparison
Tech Addict
iTrader: (10)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (19)
I am so confused on how to build this car. There are so many options and I think I know where to start, but I am not sure. I am building a 17.5 car, the track is indoor/outdoor clay. They add dirt glue to the dirt so traction is good.
I was thinking of going 4-gear laydown with shocks on front of arms. I wanted to use the gear diff with 3k in it for easy/Bullitt proof diff. There is only one other RB6.6 at the track and he is running the 3-gear lay-down with shocks on the back of the arms. I was thinking the 4-gear would add more mechanical grip to the car so I should be good to go with shocks on the front of the arms.
Also, how many of you have built the car stock with no aluminum up-grades?
I was thinking of going 4-gear laydown with shocks on front of arms. I wanted to use the gear diff with 3k in it for easy/Bullitt proof diff. There is only one other RB6.6 at the track and he is running the 3-gear lay-down with shocks on the back of the arms. I was thinking the 4-gear would add more mechanical grip to the car so I should be good to go with shocks on the front of the arms.
Also, how many of you have built the car stock with no aluminum up-grades?
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
I am so confused on how to build this car. There are so many options and I think I know where to start, but I am not sure. I am building a 17.5 car, the track is indoor/outdoor clay. They add dirt glue to the dirt so traction is good.
I was thinking of going 4-gear laydown with shocks on front of arms. I wanted to use the gear diff with 3k in it for easy/Bullitt proof diff. There is only one other RB6.6 at the track and he is running the 3-gear lay-down with shocks on the back of the arms. I was thinking the 4-gear would add more mechanical grip to the car so I should be good to go with shocks on the front of the arms.
Also, how many of you have built the car stock with no aluminum up-grades?
I was thinking of going 4-gear laydown with shocks on front of arms. I wanted to use the gear diff with 3k in it for easy/Bullitt proof diff. There is only one other RB6.6 at the track and he is running the 3-gear lay-down with shocks on the back of the arms. I was thinking the 4-gear would add more mechanical grip to the car so I should be good to go with shocks on the front of the arms.
Also, how many of you have built the car stock with no aluminum up-grades?
Run a 3 gear with 17.5. Or your going to feel slow compared to other 3 gear cars with 17.5. Traction won't be a huge issue with stock motor. If I were you I'd run a 3 gear lay down with a ball diff and start from there on set up. The rb6 generates good rear grip in lay down configuration. I'd say from what I've heard I'd run shocks the the rear of the tower. Good luck and ask any questions u want. We are all glad to help.
Tech Master
iTrader: (41)
Thank you. Do you think the gear diff will be good to go. I really don't want to mess with the Ball but if it is the better option I will use it.
Tech Lord
iTrader: (360)
Tech Adept
RB6 shock mounting
I'm reading some people mounting their shock so on the front anyone have a picture of that?