2LikesTamiya TB-Evolution IV
12-29-2004, 01:07 PM
#2266
Originally posted by Hebiki
wes, the reason i bring it up is i found something a bit weird last night. i race at socal (with wood barriers and concrete retaining wall). when i launch my car off a metal dot into one of those lovely concrete walls.. the car naturally gets tweaked. well.. i always take off my pinion and spin the drive train. i noticed that after a major crash, the motor mount moves every so slightly and binds up the bearing that holds the rear input shaft.
i took off the screws that hold the upper deck into the motor mount and they dont line up correctly. so i always check for tweak now (after every run) and make sure the drivetrain spins freely AND check the motor mount also.
i also took a reamer and made the holes a TAD bit bigger for the motor mount screws.
wes, the reason i bring it up is i found something a bit weird last night. i race at socal (with wood barriers and concrete retaining wall). when i launch my car off a metal dot into one of those lovely concrete walls.. the car naturally gets tweaked. well.. i always take off my pinion and spin the drive train. i noticed that after a major crash, the motor mount moves every so slightly and binds up the bearing that holds the rear input shaft.
i took off the screws that hold the upper deck into the motor mount and they dont line up correctly. so i always check for tweak now (after every run) and make sure the drivetrain spins freely AND check the motor mount also.
i also took a reamer and made the holes a TAD bit bigger for the motor mount screws.
12-29-2004, 01:42 PM
#2267
Hehe Chris, my drive train got more free so you didn't hit hard enough
I got a radio hit going down the back straight in my first qualifier and caught so much air I just about cleared the entire straight. The wing just barely nicked the pole!! If I would have hit it at that speed it would have surely broken the car in two.
Even though I an new to mod on asphalt, that was fun. The car was definitely fast and occasionally hooked up. If I had a track like SoCal in my back yard I'd be there every day!
What I did notice getting tweaked often is the rear suspension mount when you clip something. you will get a bunch of front to back slop on the a-arm on the side you hit. If you loosen and tighten it again, all will be good.
I got a radio hit going down the back straight in my first qualifier and caught so much air I just about cleared the entire straight. The wing just barely nicked the pole!! If I would have hit it at that speed it would have surely broken the car in two.Even though I an new to mod on asphalt, that was fun. The car was definitely fast and occasionally hooked up. If I had a track like SoCal in my back yard I'd be there every day!
What I did notice getting tweaked often is the rear suspension mount when you clip something. you will get a bunch of front to back slop on the a-arm on the side you hit. If you loosen and tighten it again, all will be good.
12-29-2004, 02:12 PM
#2268
Originally posted by fraz
Hehe Chris, my drive train got more free so you didn't hit hard enough I got a radio hit going down the back straight in my first qualifier and caught so much air I just about cleared the entire straight. The wing just barely nicked the pole!! If I would have hit it at that speed it would have surely broken the car in two.
Even though I an new to mod on asphalt, that was fun. The car was definitely fast and occasionally hooked up. If I had a track like SoCal in my back yard I'd be there every day!
What I did notice getting tweaked often is the rear suspension mount when you clip something. you will get a bunch of front to back slop on the a-arm on the side you hit. If you loosen and tighten it again, all will be good.
Hehe Chris, my drive train got more free so you didn't hit hard enough
I got a radio hit going down the back straight in my first qualifier and caught so much air I just about cleared the entire straight. The wing just barely nicked the pole!! If I would have hit it at that speed it would have surely broken the car in two.Even though I an new to mod on asphalt, that was fun. The car was definitely fast and occasionally hooked up. If I had a track like SoCal in my back yard I'd be there every day!
What I did notice getting tweaked often is the rear suspension mount when you clip something. you will get a bunch of front to back slop on the a-arm on the side you hit. If you loosen and tighten it again, all will be good.
12-29-2004, 02:16 PM
#2269
Tech Regular
Hi, just wondering what is this car like in stock racing(27T) and what hop ups(option parts) i should get if i et the IV after the new year
Chazz
Chazz
12-29-2004, 03:08 PM
#2270
I use a Q-Tip to CA the chassis edges.
The car is pretty good in 27t. I would get the aluminum input shafts. The stock ones are very heavy. I would also get the aluminum drive/input cups. The stock ones can/will break or split in a crash. A way around this is to use an outdrive ring around the stock plastic input cup. I posted this several several pages back. But sometimes this can cause a slight bind in the car. It other Words... it won't be as free. Other than that... 2 swaybar kits... some springs.. and you'll be off to a good start. Some spare parts as well. Rear hubs are a tad weak and sometimes might be molded wrong. Check your rear toe on a setup station to make sure yours are good. You could also get some aluminum rear hubs as well. Oh... and don't forget to get suspension blocks. The stock blocks give you like 3degree rear toe. Invest in a set of D's, C's, B's, and A's. Maybe an X block as well? For stock I'd run an A/A or A/B block in the rear. Up front a C/A or B/A.
Hmmm I think that's it. Everything else can come later.
The car is pretty good in 27t. I would get the aluminum input shafts. The stock ones are very heavy. I would also get the aluminum drive/input cups. The stock ones can/will break or split in a crash. A way around this is to use an outdrive ring around the stock plastic input cup. I posted this several several pages back. But sometimes this can cause a slight bind in the car. It other Words... it won't be as free. Other than that... 2 swaybar kits... some springs.. and you'll be off to a good start. Some spare parts as well. Rear hubs are a tad weak and sometimes might be molded wrong. Check your rear toe on a setup station to make sure yours are good. You could also get some aluminum rear hubs as well. Oh... and don't forget to get suspension blocks. The stock blocks give you like 3degree rear toe. Invest in a set of D's, C's, B's, and A's. Maybe an X block as well? For stock I'd run an A/A or A/B block in the rear. Up front a C/A or B/A.
Hmmm I think that's it. Everything else can come later.
12-29-2004, 03:11 PM
#2271
Oh, I also run AE springs on the car instead of Tamiya. But if I run Tamiya springs.. it's usually the Yellow/Yellow combo anyways.
12-29-2004, 03:33 PM
#2272
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Originally posted by KilRuf
I use a Q-Tip to CA the chassis edges.
The car is pretty good in 27t. I would get the aluminum input shafts. The stock ones are very heavy. I would also get the aluminum drive/input cups. The stock ones can/will break or split in a crash. A way around this is to use an outdrive ring around the stock plastic input cup. I posted this several several pages back. But sometimes this can cause a slight bind in the car. It other Words... it won't be as free. Other than that... 2 swaybar kits... some springs.. and you'll be off to a good start. Some spare parts as well. Rear hubs are a tad weak and sometimes might be molded wrong. Check your rear toe on a setup station to make sure yours are good. You could also get some aluminum rear hubs as well. Oh... and don't forget to get suspension blocks. The stock blocks give you like 3degree rear toe. Invest in a set of D's, C's, B's, and A's. Maybe an X block as well? For stock I'd run an A/A or A/B block in the rear. Up front a C/A or B/A.
Hmmm I think that's it. Everything else can come later.
I use a Q-Tip to CA the chassis edges.
The car is pretty good in 27t. I would get the aluminum input shafts. The stock ones are very heavy. I would also get the aluminum drive/input cups. The stock ones can/will break or split in a crash. A way around this is to use an outdrive ring around the stock plastic input cup. I posted this several several pages back. But sometimes this can cause a slight bind in the car. It other Words... it won't be as free. Other than that... 2 swaybar kits... some springs.. and you'll be off to a good start. Some spare parts as well. Rear hubs are a tad weak and sometimes might be molded wrong. Check your rear toe on a setup station to make sure yours are good. You could also get some aluminum rear hubs as well. Oh... and don't forget to get suspension blocks. The stock blocks give you like 3degree rear toe. Invest in a set of D's, C's, B's, and A's. Maybe an X block as well? For stock I'd run an A/A or A/B block in the rear. Up front a C/A or B/A.
Hmmm I think that's it. Everything else can come later.
12-29-2004, 03:40 PM
#2273
Tech Adept
Originally posted by KilRuf
I use a Q-Tip to CA the chassis edges.
The car is pretty good in 27t. I would get the aluminum input shafts. The stock ones are very heavy. I would also get the aluminum drive/input cups. The stock ones can/will break or split in a crash. A way around this is to use an outdrive ring around the stock plastic input cup. I posted this several several pages back. But sometimes this can cause a slight bind in the car. It other Words... it won't be as free. Other than that... 2 swaybar kits... some springs.. and you'll be off to a good start. Some spare parts as well. Rear hubs are a tad weak and sometimes might be molded wrong. Check your rear toe on a setup station to make sure yours are good. You could also get some aluminum rear hubs as well. Oh... and don't forget to get suspension blocks. The stock blocks give you like 3degree rear toe. Invest in a set of D's, C's, B's, and A's. Maybe an X block as well? For stock I'd run an A/A or A/B block in the rear. Up front a C/A or B/A.
Hmmm I think that's it. Everything else can come later.
I use a Q-Tip to CA the chassis edges.
The car is pretty good in 27t. I would get the aluminum input shafts. The stock ones are very heavy. I would also get the aluminum drive/input cups. The stock ones can/will break or split in a crash. A way around this is to use an outdrive ring around the stock plastic input cup. I posted this several several pages back. But sometimes this can cause a slight bind in the car. It other Words... it won't be as free. Other than that... 2 swaybar kits... some springs.. and you'll be off to a good start. Some spare parts as well. Rear hubs are a tad weak and sometimes might be molded wrong. Check your rear toe on a setup station to make sure yours are good. You could also get some aluminum rear hubs as well. Oh... and don't forget to get suspension blocks. The stock blocks give you like 3degree rear toe. Invest in a set of D's, C's, B's, and A's. Maybe an X block as well? For stock I'd run an A/A or A/B block in the rear. Up front a C/A or B/A.
Hmmm I think that's it. Everything else can come later.
12-29-2004, 03:53 PM
#2274
Yes, more steering... 
12-29-2004, 03:55 PM
#2275
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Originally posted by KilRuf
Yes, more steering...
Yes, more steering...
12-29-2004, 03:55 PM
#2276
Tech Legend
iTrader: (51)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Castle Mamba Max Pro. Feel its power!!!!!!!!!!
Posts: 21,220
Trader Rating: 51 (100%+)
Originally posted by Galifrey
Damn, now I gotta go and buy a load of upgrades for mine...
Damn, now I gotta go and buy a load of upgrades for mine...
12-29-2004, 04:04 PM
#2277
hopups
here's how you can go overboard hopping up the evoIV
delrin outdrives (from evoIII)
Ti screws
aluminum or Ti turnbuckles
flourine coated ball studs
flourine coated ball ends
blue aluminum shock top/caps
blue aluminum shock retainers
Ti axles (tamiya or square)
front one piece alum. input shaft/drive cup
rear alum input shaft
rear alum drive cup
clear diff covers
Tamiya lightweight shaft or Team Bomber graphite shaft. (a must for stock racing)
a sway bar kit.
servo mount/transponder holder from Square
Xenon aluminum center braces (3)
alum sway bar holders
ceramic bearings (if you really want to go overboard )
X - E suspenion blocks
1 deg alum rear hubs
1.5 deg alum rear hubs
0 deg alum rear hubs
did i miss something?
delrin outdrives (from evoIII)
Ti screws
aluminum or Ti turnbuckles
flourine coated ball studs
flourine coated ball ends
blue aluminum shock top/caps
blue aluminum shock retainers
Ti axles (tamiya or square)
front one piece alum. input shaft/drive cup
rear alum input shaft
rear alum drive cup
clear diff covers
Tamiya lightweight shaft or Team Bomber graphite shaft. (a must for stock racing)
a sway bar kit.
servo mount/transponder holder from Square
Xenon aluminum center braces (3)
alum sway bar holders
ceramic bearings (if you really want to go overboard
)X - E suspenion blocks
1 deg alum rear hubs
1.5 deg alum rear hubs
0 deg alum rear hubs
did i miss something?
12-29-2004, 04:18 PM
#2279
I have an X block here, maybe I'll toss that on and give it a try hehe. Well... I'll let you try the E/X up front...
Yeah, I forgot about the mainshaft. It's heavy as well. I haven't seen the Tamiya lightweight one yet. I run the TeamBomber mainshaft. BUT.... what sucks is I have to take it all off since I'm converting the car back to TCS specs.
Yeah, I forgot about the mainshaft. It's heavy as well. I haven't seen the Tamiya lightweight one yet. I run the TeamBomber mainshaft. BUT.... what sucks is I have to take it all off since I'm converting the car back to TCS specs.
12-29-2004, 04:46 PM
#2280
Originally posted by KilRuf
I have an X block here, maybe I'll toss that on and give it a try hehe. Well... I'll let you try the E/X up front...
Yeah, I forgot about the mainshaft. It's heavy as well. I haven't seen the Tamiya lightweight one yet. I run the TeamBomber mainshaft. BUT.... what sucks is I have to take it all off since I'm converting the car back to TCS specs.
I have an X block here, maybe I'll toss that on and give it a try hehe. Well... I'll let you try the E/X up front...
Yeah, I forgot about the mainshaft. It's heavy as well. I haven't seen the Tamiya lightweight one yet. I run the TeamBomber mainshaft. BUT.... what sucks is I have to take it all off since I'm converting the car back to TCS specs.
but i have more than enough steering now. just gotta find more corner speed
my car is basically TCS legal except for the long turnbuckle for the servo. im using a lunsford for that. the Tamiya lightweight shaft is the same weight (when compared by hand. ) as the Team Bomber. it also has "tamiya" etched into it. so its pretty cool looking.