Pittster

iTrader: (5)

I have replaced the Ackermann to the TD alloy one as it was $9.

Installed exotek rear alloy hubs after ripping the ball stud clean out of the plastic one.

Installed a Sumo racing camber link as I snapped the stock gearbox at the ball stud mounting point + new gbox.

Have snapped a front right C-hub but replaced with the same part number and noticed it is thicker in alot of spots so perhaps a revision from the kit one by TD.

I have a spare set of towers just in case of a failure but if it happens I will get carbon front and rear.

This is from 2 race meets so hopefully the breaking will stop.

All these breakages happened on landing apart from the front C-hub that was into a barrier off a jump at full speed so it was to be expected.

8ight-e

iTrader: (58)

• Aluminum ackerman good investment
• Aluminum hex's also good investment
• Rear hub, all you really need is the long ball stud and a nut to be bulletproof, aluminum not needed
• Several companies make aluminum front c-hubs and are a great buy

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

RM4 parts came in! Too bad I blew up my ESC. Hopefully I'll be able to rig something up before this Monday and even get some time with RM4 to get it dialed in.

jonsee

iTrader: (2)

you may like it. all I ever ran is MM4... even in my DESC. I always liked the feel.

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

I might try MM4 since it would he a quick swap but with how low bite the track is I have a feeling I'll have better luck with RM4.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Try it but I definitely don't think of it as a quick swap. Wires rerouted/switch the camber links/reset camber

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

I'd be willing to run RM4 one qualifier than MM4 then the next and switch back to RM4 if I felt smoother with it. Quick enough if I'm willing to tackle it between heats haha!

Though I am buying another RTR since it's not much more than an ESC and the Type B chassis upgrade. Something like $60 for an extra roller my cost which is stupid to pass up. Why have spares when I could have a spare buggy minis ESC/Servo/Receiver.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

Very true!

A friend just got the desc210 RTR from tower. They threw in all the B chassis parts!

homershoots

I just got two of them from tower a red one for myself and the blue one for a friend who otherwise would not have been able to afford the purchase. The red one came with all the extra b chassis parts the blue one did not. Should I change out the chassis and parts straight away or is it not something that will make a big difference in handling?

iTz Nicholas72

iTrader: (19)

It's for durability to fix the weak points on the original DimeC and DimeC20 chassis'.

homershoots

Oh ok. Looking forward to running this class should be fun. I haven't run it yet and will run it with the rtr radio until my m11x reciever shows up. Deffo want to change out the servo do you guys recommend a low profile or mini servo? Or is just a standard high speed servo ok? Not sure what to use coming from 1/8

1slash

iTrader: (2)

I have yet to run mine myself as well. But everyone I know just runs the normal sized servos. I'm sure a Low profile would work fine but I don't see any major needs to run one.

shagino

iTrader: (57)

I'd call Tower and ask them about the parts. Personally, I'd change out the chassis for convenience. Seems easier to do it now. It shouldn't change handling though.

I use a normal servo but I know a guy who used a low profile before the switched cars. Depends how much you crash.

fivepointnine

iTrader: (15)

with a low profile servo you can run the battery in the most forward position, a full size servo blocks the screw holes for the forward battery block.

homershoots

Ok good to know, an extra tuning option is always a good thing.