Skiddins

Try standing your rear shocks up, might help a little with both problems.

And/or stiffer rear springs.

Whatever you choose, let us know how it goes

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Anyone have any input

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Out of curiosity what is your through process behind this? I would think you'd want to start up front if it's an off power corner entry issue.

Dave

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Less caster helps turn in but you'll lose some exit steering, stiffen the rear and it'll help a little on exit. I've been trying to get rid of the push entering corners and when I finally did I now push on exit.
What I did was stand up the rear shock, put the lowest RC in the front of the front arms and 0 RC in back of rear arm and you'll have less caster but it helped out alot. Sometimes I switch the RC in front to 0 in front of front arm and -75 in back of rear arm and it helped alot also. Try it, it can't hurt

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Are you saying you only use shims on carpet? What do you feel changes and is benefited when you do these? And I am understanding correctly that people only shim the front top at tower and rear bottom at arm?

Dave

Skiddins

I've found that stiffer rear springs help initial steering at corner entry.

Sometimes stiffer rear springs, or standing the rears up more seems to also prevent too much weight transferring to the rear at corner exit as you apply the power.
If you go too stiff at the rear it might start to make the rear loose again.

You might also want to consider moving more static weight to the rear of the car. This might contribute to the issues

Like everything, it's a balancing act as well as being effected by driving style etc.

erchn

iTrader: (7)

Are those holes even threaded? Are you sure the arm mounts will even fit in those holes without hitting the chassis? I'd be surprised if they did.

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Yes, I only shim the front top shock on carpet. I felt it calmed the front of the car down, not so twitchy. I put a 2mm just on top of the front to make it straight up and down, some put 1.5 even 2.5.

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

You can't even get the screw in those holes, if you shim under the bulk you probably can but then you'll be raising COG and the shocks wouldn't fit and some other parts as well

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Good questions. I'll check when I get to the track tonight and report back. I don't know why they'd put them there if they weren't functional on some level (Weight shedding perhaps?).

Dave

Skiddins

If you want 'inbetween' roll centre heights, you can just add shims underneath the pivot block mounts

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

I definitely see what you mean about stiffer rear helping w/ on power steering I'm just trying to wrap my head around a stiffer rear spring helping off power corner entry. Perhaps the stiffer spring is speeding up weight transfer to the front off power into corner entry?

Dave

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Ok can you tell me what you experience when you put washers on the rear shock at the arm itself? Is this also in effect straightening the rear shock like the front? I can't say I've paid attention to the exact vertical orientation of the shock itself.


Thanks
Dave

TT_Vert

iTrader: (72)

Yeah I've read that in the manual. I was just wondering why xray put those lower holes in. Perhaps so you can put a few MM under the block to get extra roll center options like you said. I currently run 0 FF/FR and -.75FR/RR. I tried a -.75FF/FR to try to get a bit more low speed steering and turn in butthe car had crazy high speed steering and was way too twitchy for me. Didn't help me w/ turn in a bit. I couldn't imagine using those lower holes which is why I asked if anyone used those and why xray put them there if not.

Dave

JOE SI

iTrader: (13)

Yea same thing, straightening the shock.
Don't know what it actually does, but I'm going to say it makes the suspension more efficient