Serpenteer

Any particular reason for using 48dp??

artwork

iTrader: (88)

Thanks for posting these setups... they look great. Any way you could post a pic of the cut top deck...these things are not cheap so screwing it up could suck!

CoreyW.

Strictly durability But you can also use different gear sets to move the motor forward/rearward- just another tuning option really.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

2pc blocks in F/R? Any issues with durability doing that?

I need to convert your droop settings to over right height when I get home.

Thanks for posting these!

CoreyW.

Don't have the cars with me but it really is easier than it sounds. You cut front the front to the middle screw hole(the one that is right above the steering rack). As long as your drill bit is thinner than the diameter of the hole, you can't mess it up. Once cut, it will flex from the furthest outside points the pre-drilled hole rather than your cut line. Take a look at the stock deck and you will see what I mean.

CoreyW.

No durability issues at all. Funny enough, I usually measure over ride height but I thought more people wanted droop block settings. Above ride height it should translate to 2mm front and 2.5mm rear. Keep in mind, when I measured form the droop blocks on the fornt end, I used the set screw housing on the c-hub as my reference point.


Note: The Superstock sheet shows 48P gears when really it was meant to say 64P.

Skiddins

Thanks Corey

Always like looking at setup sheets to try and see what people have done.

Both setups look like you were trying to get a lot of turn in/steering (lower front upper links etc), why didn't you use the 1.3mm roll bar at the front on the stock setup, and did you try arm sweep at all?

Would running 2.7 springs front and rear at the Snowbirds have reduced grip/steering at all?

Thanks
Skiddins

CoreyW.

You would be correct - Andrew likes allot of steering in and out of the corner. He gets to the power much quicker then most and sometimes it can be a challenge finding the balance between push and oversteer. The heavier diff oil was the best change we made all weekend. The track seemed to have allot of forward bite, atleast thats we found, therefore we could use the thicker oil which gave Andrew drive off the corner.

I am not sure how the 2.7's would have worked but at this track, you need to compromise between good transition speed(2 chicanes) and the ability to carve or wrap around the many 180 degree corners. We found the car did both very well, and in some rounds, we were nearly 2 tenths quicker per lap then the next fastest car. When that is the case, only minor changes to the setup are needed, usually only if Andrew was looking for a different "feel" for the way the car drove.

Skiddins

So did the 2.3 springs front and rear offer more steering and traction than the 2.5's all round?

Thanks
Skiddins

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Corey - what fluids did you run? 313cst shock oil? 2.5kcst diff fluid?

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

The 2.5 million diff fluid is probably GravityRC. Nexus has it.

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

i'm fully aware of the Gravity RC stuff... looks interesting. i'm interested in the other oils.

syndr0me

iTrader: (32)

Fully!!!

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

dam right.
fully.

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

He is using the 2.3s with the optional arms (2 hole) so its probably about the same.