mckrooz

iTrader: (8)

Add shims between spring cap and bearing.

goldenboy

i have sg shaft, but ya there is plenty of shaft still, and i didnt touch the nut, all i did was exchange the bells

NickName999

I finally got around to starting the MTX after having built it. It starts great, but does not go so well. When the engine is started, and throttle is applied, the clutch does not engage to cause the pinion to rotate. I checked the spring pressure and the ‘clutch clearance’, but both seem to be inline with the manuals requirements. Is there something common or unwritten that I did or did not do? Should I play with the spring pressure or change the amount of 'clutch clearance'?

Thanks

Tag

iTrader: (31)

I would loosen the pressure screw to reduce a little amount of clearance. Your clutch will engage a little faster this way...of course this is given that you have your clutch setup assembled correctly..

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

hey all I have seen people w/ a carbon fiber strip connecting the body posts, does anyone know where i can find this item?

thanks Jason

mckrooz

iTrader: (8)

http://shopping.rcmodel.com.hk/index...fc77ad1d2880b9


They have it.

Profoxcg

iTrader: (2)

Thanks, can you tell me the part number?

Cartman

here

TOEBSTER2

iTrader: (6)

Does anyone know if you can change the pinion jump to 5 or 6 instead of the stock 4. My car is just a stone on the track. The bottom end is weak and delayed and the top end hits to soon. The track I run on has a 155 foot straight and is flowing. Also the car came with MR12 and REX pipe.

Can Anyone HELP?

Bivens

Thanks....I haven't had a chance to get a picture.....just take a razor-saw or dremel with a cut-off wheel and take about 2-3mm off the top of the upright......

Kawahara Spool......Try ACE hobbies....

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/ca...oducts_id=4489



Here's another one I recommend to get more rear-traction mid-corner to off corner (goes well with cutting down the rear uprights.....if you don't overdo it...). This rear bracket has a third camber-link hole higher than the stock holes. (It also has the stock holes).....looks cool also..... (sortof $$$ though )

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/ca...oducts_id=4491



It's possible to generate some VERY large gaps between 1st and 2nd gear if you really want to.....I had something on my car last week that was so crazy the engine almost over-revved 1st gear just to get into 2nd gear....(and 2nd was really tall).....there was a DRAMATIC rpm-drop when the shift occurred.....It was WAY too much and I took it off the car....but it's possible.....Just try different combinations until you find the right pair that mesh.....I've also heard of people using both 0.8 gears for 2nd-gear and standard gears for 1st.......I don't see any reason this isn't possible either.......

What I did to ease the pain of gearing changes on my NTC3 (before I saw the light).....I sat down one-night and just installed every combo I could and wrote-down all of the matching pairs and made a chart of possible combinations.....I haven't seen the need to do this yet on the MTX-3 since gear changes are much easier and trial-and-error for gearing on this car doesn't waste much time....the bottom line is that almost anything is possible to run if you can satisfy yourself that the mesh of the gears is OK.

If your bottom-end is that weak....I'd personally try lengthening the pipe and shimming down the head-clearence to get more rip first.....then optimize gearing.....If the motor isn't right, gearing will just hide the real problem.....on the other hand....the secret to being able to run LOW gears is to have a motor that will rev high also so your 2nd gear doesn't have to be that tall......make sure the motor is doing all it can first.

NickName999

Thanks, that helped quite a bit. What effect will increasing or decreasing the 'clutch clearance' with shims have? Or is it simply that it either works or doesn't work?

I assume that the spring tension will allow it to engage at a lower RPM, but aside from there being no neutral, can it be too loose?

Thanks

Seisick

Had the same problem, the clutch would not engage ´til high on the rpm on the engine, which was not recommended for a new engine. had to loose the spring completely and from the point it just grabbed the thread, 1.5 turns in. Just finished breakin the engine today and I noticed that some ntc3 had terrific bottom compared to mine. I think that perhaps the clutch is slipping so I´ll now try to adjust as the manual states. let me know if this helps. any suggestions welcome, got the mt12

Seisick

hey bivens, can you post your chart of the possible combinations on the gear mesh? 15/48-21/42 will work?

chaka

just got my mtx-3 and was wondering how good the mr-12 motor is. is this still a competitive motor is it more of a bottom end or top end motor. how would it compare to the ns12. so many questions.. thanks in advance...

j240z

I just got a Kawahara belt tensioner part # A011. I'm wondering if it can be used on the MTX-3? I was told it would work on the MTX-3 but the package says MTX-2, Kyosho, Mugen, Serpent. Does anyone here have this on their mtx-3? If so could you please guide me in installing this. Pics would be great too! Thanks.