Ay Way Way

iTrader: (3)

3racing parts are good, one of the better brands out there, , but nothing will compare to Tamiya quality. Not saying u should not get 3racing parts there is nothing wrong with them.

From your list the 3 racing main shaft might be a waste of money considering the Tamiya one is already metal.

You should also consider spending a bit more money and get a set of TRF dampers.

Driftwoof, What kind of parts are you looking for? I have just taken off a few parts off my tb-03 and looking to get rid of them

bluesxman

Whups, sorry. Bad cut and paste on my part. For the diff halves I meant:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=54056

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

Oh ok, is the motor spacer needed though? The stock one feels like thin cardboard or stiff paper/plastic. I don't want it to hinder the transfer of heat to the motor mount cooling fins. I want my motor as cool as possible.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BYezFrlRms

I'm going to scrap the shaft then. I have those JazRider shocks on my Yokomo SD. I think they are good enough, they look just like that.\

I'm looking for 1 way center, and to replace the front and rear diffs to locked. I'm a little confused since I sent i got links to both 3racing and tamiya parts to get fro drifting on this thread.

I think I will stick with Tamiya Parts. What Tamiya parts do I need for the front and rear diffs? I don't like ball diffs. i fear the word "braking". I will order the parts in the coming weeks all at once. I built the tb03d from scratch so i no how to do it.


This is all i need right? And the diffs are done and drift ready? Will it be more durable? These parts will rid of my front and rear ball diffs right?

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-evo...h=595_744_1229

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-evo...h=595_744_1229

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tb0...6-p-28280.html

Correct?

I noticed there is a front 1 way and a center 1 way in my list. I need them both to get max out my drift right?

bluesxman

Well, I couldn't tell you, honestly. I can say that with the stock spacer, my motor mount seems just as hot as the motor itself. My guess is that it isn't a significant issue, but I could easily be wrong on this one.

fat500

iTrader: (51)

Tamiya places that motor washer in the kits for use when using a plastic motor mount or a cast alum. one.. It helps keep the heat transfer down so the plastic parts do not get as hot and warp or the cast ones do not crack. When using Machined aluminum it is not necessary. (ie the blue alum. motor mount) . The kit motor mount in the tb03 is cast aluminum and does not transfer heat the same way a machined one does. Cast Tends to get hot spots causing stress cracks.
That is why they spec the fiber spacer. The cast Kit one could crack if it gets hot enough, although very unlikely.But Tamiya covers all their ends so they spec it in the manual. I run the stock cast one with no spacer and have no problems.
I doubt i will have a problem as 17.5 temps at around 155 deg. 180 max. If I was running mod or drifting I would buy the machined one. Next: The Blue Aluminum motor spacer #54129 is designed to let more airflow in to the front of the motor as drifting is more constant high rpm and generates more heat. Hope this helps

Metla

I have been throwing those fibre spacers in the bin since 1985......

kerk

iTrader: (2)

I drifts with my TB-03. I run Front 1-way, Rear diff. The way I look at it is, if the front is already a 1-way, then I don't feel its necessary to install a centre 1-way.
But, if you choose to have a spool up front, combo with a centre 1-way, then, I think, it should let you have more steering on power, while off throttle, the car will rotate better in comparison to front spool/diff, centre solid, rear diff/spool setup.
Not forgetting, no matter which combo you choose to use, with proper suspension / geometry setup, it will most probably work. Some setups are just harder to work with.

With regards to have a really tight diff, there's a quick way. Remove the spacer which is sandwiched between the 2 bearings. This will allow the 2 out drives to move closer than before. Please be careful with tightening. It can really put plenty of pressure on the plates and balls. You can practically lock the diff, if you want to.

From what I've found out, no matter what setup you have, a single biggest area that affects the way the car drifts, its with the droop setting. Carefully play with the ratio between the front and the rear. As a quick reference, for every quarter turn of the hex driver, it translates to about 1mm of droop changes at the hub (running std TB-03 arms).

Hope this information helps.

Cheers!!

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

I just want you guys to know I really appreciate the time and help you given me.

I love the TB-03D. I like the fact that the droop is even(car level) on both sides when the screw is not even tightened(unlike my yokomo). I leave the hex screws in the arms but they are not set to the point where the cars starts getting lower. The car is like 1/2" high without them set. I kinda like this clearance.

My Parts list:
This goes in the front diff box right?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-evo...7-p-27495.html

This goes into the rear right?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-evo...g-p-28279.html

And this goes in the mid/back where the motor mount is, the spur gear connects to this correct?
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-tb0...6-p-28280.html

And as for the driving mechanics I'm done right? I maxed out my drift settings with these minus all other adjustments that have nothing to do with the drive system?

CSaddict

iTrader: (13)

I have an SMC 5200 lipo that is a bit too tall to get the bracket on. Are you guys using an extension or a longer threaded body?

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

On my car all I did was not thread the bracket hold downs in so far on the chassis and I can get all my lipo's to fit fine. I use Thunderpower 5000 packs and SMC 5200 with no problems. I haven't had any of my lipos come out in wrecks from not having the hold downs threaded in all the way either.

CSaddict

iTrader: (13)

Thanks. Did you see my question about my car pulling hard left on hard acceleration? I think its the spool. Any insight? Maybe just the nature of the shaft drive car?

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Oh no I didn't sorry have been pretty busy this past week, If your car is pulling try and check your droop settings carefully. That is usually the problem. Any car being tweaked will cause this, even a belt car... its just shows up a lot faster on a shaft drive. Other things to check are equal length shock lengths, binding wheel bearings or any kind of drag in your drivetrain. Hope this helps, let me know how you make out.

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

I'm hoping someone sees my last post too

Timmie

iTrader: (3)

Yeah seems that if you had those you would have everything covered as far as drivetrain goes. If I was to make a drift car, I would probably run the spool in the rear of the car and run a one way up front. That way on power you would be able to hold a drift better and off power the one way would help set the front for turn in so that you could put the car into a drift easier. A lot would depend on what your using for tires too. The difference in grip from plastic drift tires to the rubber drift tires are pretty big.

DriftWoof

iTrader: (4)

Ok I think I get it.

The spool is a direct coupling right?

Front One Way: I put it in the diffs up front in the diff box by the steering side. It replaces the stock front ball diff.

Direct Coupling: Goes into the rear diff box by the motor mount/motor. Replaces the rear ball diff.

Center 1 Way: Connects to spur gear just before the shaft. I don't know if this is necessary since the front one way is already there. If I put it it might mess it up or add to my drifting I don't know. Is it needed since I have a front 1 way or will it make the car a better drift? I'd like to get the most out of my car so adding it would be no problem and I will add it unless someone says otherwise.

Can you guys verify everything for me to make sure I'm correct. I'm going to make this my setup for my drivetrain and call it a day on the drivetrain so I can start on other things.