20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
08-26-2011, 12:00 PM
#3601
so... 72t + 32, 33, 34, 35 and 36 will fit without any problems?
08-26-2011, 12:07 PM
#3602
Yes, I currently have the Associated Spur 69T (48P) in the car and I can put a 37T (48P) on. My problem is do not have anything larger to try. You will have to use the bottom motor mount hole not the back one, you will not be able to get the 2mm wrench in or the screw in the back hole. Also you will need to put the pinion on like you did with the TC5, because it will not fit though the opening between the motor mount and top deck.... You should be able to fit the following range of pinions on a 72T (48P), 30T to 43T giving a range of FDR from 4.8 to 3.35.
08-26-2011, 12:51 PM
#3603
Yes, I currently have the Associated Spur 69T (48P) in the car and I can put a 37T (48P) on. My problem is do not have anything larger to try. You will have to use the bottom motor mount hole not the back one, you will not be able to get the 2mm wrench in or the screw in the back hole. Also you will need to put the pinion on like you did with the TC5, because it will not fit though the opening between the motor mount and top deck.... You should be able to fit the following range of pinions on a 72T (48P), 30T to 43T giving a range of FDR from 4.8 to 3.35.
08-26-2011, 01:05 PM
#3604
Belt tension
So, I had the cam holders in backwards with the front set at 6 and rear at 7 so they were probably at 11 front and 12 rear. I think I have probably stretched them out a bit. My question is when checking the belt tension how much play should there be and does belt tension play any part in driving/handling characteristics or just the cam position.
08-26-2011, 01:09 PM
#3605
If you can get a 98T 64P that would get you a 4.0 (40T) and 3.5 (56T) FDR. If you are running VTA or 17.5, in blinky mode. Which you will need 4.0 FDR for both of these. To put a pinion on that to big to fit, you put the motor shaft though the hole, then put the pinion on. You can reach the set screw from access hole on the bottom of the chaise...
08-26-2011, 01:12 PM
#3606
So, I had the cam holders in backwards with the front set at 6 and rear at 7 so they were probably at 11 front and 12 rear. I think I have probably stretched them out a bit. My question is when checking the belt tension how much play should there be and does belt tension play any part in driving/handling characteristics or just the cam position.
Someone else will need to comment on the other question. I would like to see what they have to say also... I'm not clear on what tension does for the car...
08-26-2011, 01:25 PM
#3607
The reason I think I may have stretched them is now when I put the cam holders in the way I now interpret the manual they appear to be too loose. But, I don't know what the proper tension is because I have had them in wrong from day one. We will see when someone with experience chimes in.
08-26-2011, 01:43 PM
#3608
Tech Fanatic
it does not matter much, just change the setting until your belt: Front, in middle of top plate lift 4/5mm, Rear in between cogs push in 2/3 mm.
They should not be tight, asso belts are really good (probably the best on TC) the only thing that you have done is put sideway pressure on your diffs/spur assembly.
As for the diff setup, it raises the diff or lowers it, usually the front is lower and rear higher, never used cam B and do not know of anyone using then either, only A are used on all setup sheet I have seen so far
and you need to set the number on the left side (motor) and match the other side
They should not be tight, asso belts are really good (probably the best on TC) the only thing that you have done is put sideway pressure on your diffs/spur assembly.
As for the diff setup, it raises the diff or lowers it, usually the front is lower and rear higher, never used cam B and do not know of anyone using then either, only A are used on all setup sheet I have seen so far
and you need to set the number on the left side (motor) and match the other side
08-26-2011, 02:12 PM
#3609
it does not matter much, just change the setting until your belt: Front, in middle of top plate lift 4/5mm, Rear in between cogs push in 2/3 mm.
They should not be tight, asso belts are really good (probably the best on TC) the only thing that you have done is put sideway pressure on your diffs/spur assembly.
As for the diff setup, it raises the diff or lowers it, usually the front is lower and rear higher, never used cam B and do not know of anyone using then either, only A are used on all setup sheet I have seen so far
and you need to set the number on the left side (motor) and match the other side
They should not be tight, asso belts are really good (probably the best on TC) the only thing that you have done is put sideway pressure on your diffs/spur assembly.
As for the diff setup, it raises the diff or lowers it, usually the front is lower and rear higher, never used cam B and do not know of anyone using then either, only A are used on all setup sheet I have seen so far
and you need to set the number on the left side (motor) and match the other side
Also what is the purpose of more or less tension on the belt?
08-26-2011, 02:13 PM
#3610
The reason I think I may have stretched them is now when I put the cam holders in the way I now interpret the manual they appear to be too loose. But, I don't know what the proper tension is because I have had them in wrong from day one. We will see when someone with experience chimes in.
08-26-2011, 02:15 PM
#3611
it does not matter much, just change the setting until your belt: Front, in middle of top plate lift 4/5mm, Rear in between cogs push in 2/3 mm.
They should not be tight, asso belts are really good (probably the best on TC) the only thing that you have done is put sideway pressure on your diffs/spur assembly.
As for the diff setup, it raises the diff or lowers it, usually the front is lower and rear higher, never used cam B and do not know of anyone using then either, only A are used on all setup sheet I have seen so far
and you need to set the number on the left side (motor) and match the other side
They should not be tight, asso belts are really good (probably the best on TC) the only thing that you have done is put sideway pressure on your diffs/spur assembly.
As for the diff setup, it raises the diff or lowers it, usually the front is lower and rear higher, never used cam B and do not know of anyone using then either, only A are used on all setup sheet I have seen so far
and you need to set the number on the left side (motor) and match the other side
So, what does raising and lower the diffs do? I'm new to the rc sport in general and only have about 150 laps in onroad and on this car. One thing I like to do is try different things to see what the results are.
Thanks again, now back to tc6 prev maint.
08-26-2011, 02:20 PM
#3612
Tech Fanatic
Olly - first many thanks for all your help you have provided here. I'm not sure that I understand your first part, "in middle of top plate lift 4/5mm, Rear in between cogs push in 2/3 mm". Can you help a little more with this?
Also what is the purpose of more or less tension on the belt?
Also what is the purpose of more or less tension on the belt?
A "loose" belt is smoother but too loose and it will hop.
long belt, in middle of top plate/belt lengh, you should be able with your finger to lift it 4/5mm before it feels stiff, or use a screw driver.
short rear, between small gear of spur gear assembly and rear diff, it should go down 2/3mm when you push with your finger, actually easier again to see if you use a screw driver or other tool.
08-26-2011, 02:33 PM
#3613
If your belt is too tight it will put pressure on drive train.
A "loose" belt is smoother but too loose and it will hop.
long belt, in middle of top plate/belt lengh, you should be able with your finger to lift it 4/5mm before it feels stiff, or use a screw driver.
short rear, between small gear of spur gear assembly and rear diff, it should go down 2/3mm when you push with your finger, actually easier again to see if you use a screw driver or other tool.
A "loose" belt is smoother but too loose and it will hop.
long belt, in middle of top plate/belt lengh, you should be able with your finger to lift it 4/5mm before it feels stiff, or use a screw driver.
short rear, between small gear of spur gear assembly and rear diff, it should go down 2/3mm when you push with your finger, actually easier again to see if you use a screw driver or other tool.
08-26-2011, 02:34 PM
#3614
Tech Fanatic
Olly thanks for the reply.. I now seems like you mentioned belt tension somewhere before, but I couldn't find it.
So, what does raising and lower the diffs do? I'm new to the rc sport in general and only have about 150 laps in onroad and on this car. One thing I like to do is try different things to see what the results are.
Thanks again, now back to tc6 prev maint.
So, what does raising and lower the diffs do? I'm new to the rc sport in general and only have about 150 laps in onroad and on this car. One thing I like to do is try different things to see what the results are.
Thanks again, now back to tc6 prev maint.
There was, if I can remember something that Rick Howard mentionned somewhere about belt setup, but cannot remember if it is here or somewhere else, or if it is Rick either
the angle of the belt hitting the diff is also an issue to look into.
08-26-2011, 06:53 PM
#3615
Olly thanks for the reply.. I now seems like you mentioned belt tension somewhere before, but I couldn't find it.
So, what does raising and lower the diffs do? I'm new to the rc sport in general and only have about 150 laps in onroad and on this car. One thing I like to do is try different things to see what the results are.
Thanks again, now back to tc6 prev maint.
So, what does raising and lower the diffs do? I'm new to the rc sport in general and only have about 150 laps in onroad and on this car. One thing I like to do is try different things to see what the results are.
Thanks again, now back to tc6 prev maint.