odpurple

Thanks for posting that one Wingman. I really like the Laje front end, and ran it on the OD12 for a while. It's really one of the best front ends I've ever used. It is so adjustable you can really get yourself into trouble

wingman2

No worries. The whole kit was quite expensive (for a 12th car) when I ordered it, but you could ask them to set the front end up with regards to castor/camber settings when they built it at the factory (the kit came pre-built).

There was some really nice touches though, and overall, with all the 'upgrades' that came with it, it was good value for money.

Nw car should be out soon.

peter_robinson

iTrader: (21)

The simpler things are in a minimalistic car like a 1/12th pan car, the better off you are going to be IMO. Just because the old skool front end is one molded piece does not mean that it's not adjustable, I change caster, camber, and track width all the time... Do you really want to get lost in adjusting your front end when 90% of the people I see at the track have a hard enough time getting the car balanced and tweaked flat? I don't anyway.

tim fry

iTrader: (1)

How do you make those adjustments if it's moulded?

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Shims.

peter_robinson

iTrader: (21)

Indeed, a little shim here or there is all that's needed.

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

Keep it simple is good but the reactive castor is not so bad

Just mostly caster with those little spacers (And that's pretty easy just see if you need more onpower steering and increase castor)

And just setting camber so tires wear flat which takes a run or two to see how they are wearing also not so hard

That's me keeping it simple

Note:

I knows there more like spacing of steering arm or springs but I think the stock setting for the steering arm works fine for me and most run .020 although I like it when i can use .018 cause I like the steering massive

Maybell

iTrader: (2)

I miss the old Delta front end.... adjustable everything while driving!

Infinite 12th

iTrader: (3)

lol...I think I know what you mean



We used to run a lot of castor with those

At least outdoors at pit stop and briggs in La area

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

I can see how to adjust caster easily enough on the Old School front end, but how are you adjusting camber?

It is 1/3 of the price though, that helps sell kits.

avink007

I take a piece of tape and put it on the half of the lower part of the arm where it touches the chassis. Either inside or outside of the arm depending on more or less camber, or stack pieces on top of each other. If you want to get fancy you can cut the thin CRC ride height adjusters so they are only touching half the arm making it possible to adjust camber.

YR4Dude

iTrader: (44)

Same way you adjust ride height.....shims.

Radio Active

iTrader: (2)

No offence, but Avink's answer was more informative. Does everyone do that, or do you use wedge shaped shims or something?

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

I used to use pieces of header card from parts packages. Just trim them so they rest against the mounting screws and extend to the outer base of the arm.

JoelV

iTrader: (4)

Its not really even a war. Every camp seems to have their preference. You run a CRC you run their pro strut. You run AE you run the r5 dynamic. The guys designing the cars don't even care to touch others. Bruce wants nothing to do with a dynamic strut as I'm sure Frank has been set in his pro strut with no interest in changing.

Pick your car and run whatever the team guys are. (Hint, it comes in the box)