terry.sc

F103 and F104 wheels bolt straight on, you don't need to buy anything to fit them. The rear axle and diff assembly is the same between the F109, F103 and F104 chassis.

But one problem with the F104 wheels, the rears are narrower than the kit wheels so you would end up with a 200mm wide front end with a 180mm wide rear end. If you are determined to run F104 wheels and tyres you can fix this by fitting the complete F104 front suspension parts to the F109, they bolt straight on.

kikcaffine

iTrader: (32)

Just these:
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...yword=&pg_no=1

or is there more?

texastc

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure its posted somewhere in this thread, but I can't find it right now. Box stock, how does this perform on carpet? I hope to have one this week. But I'm getting no information about my order from HKS.
I've been told by some people at my local track that the F1s don't do well on our track because of the long wheel base. They slip and slide a lot. I'm just getting one because I've wanted a formula 1 car for 20 years, we don't have a class of them to race. Really anxious to get this thing.

Markus

iTrader: (93)

I got my car second hand, so I have never actually tired the box stock setup on carpet. But I've read from top F1 drivers in this thread, that the box stock setup is pretty good with the kit foam tires on carpet. You should be race ready after assembly.

bsmooth

iTrader: (18)

In stock form, the car will work well on carpet. Asphalt is a whole other story. You need to find a way to mount the battery across the chassis for asphalt.

JR007

Noooo you don't. We have almost 1/2 the cars on our rack being 109's with standard battery. They go as well as any other. You do want to do the CRC/AE side spring mod, and get that ali caster block (if you can find one).
I'd say those 2 mods would be standard for any set-up, but I don't race carpet so may be wrong.

davenz

as JR007 said. Most of f109 racers in Hamilton New Zealand use these mods on the f109 with great success on asphalt, including our national champion.
Maybe you need to look at tyres also to get you f109 to work.

______________
sakura zero,
F109
Xray fk05, tekin 13.5/rs pro
mtronics ip6

Slot-machine

iTrader: (1)

I have a brand new (still in the box-unbuilt kit) for sale. The kit is in Springfield, Ohio, USA. Will sell for $137 shipped to lower 48 states. PayPal only.

THNX

Joe R

texastc

iTrader: (2)

Ugh, guess you didn't see my pm.

kikcaffine

iTrader: (32)

So aside from the arms, do I need the knuckles for the f104 to convert the front of the car to 180mm?

At the point when the car would be converted does it then use 104 wheels all around?

terry.sc

Those are just the plastic parts, you will also need the various ball joints and longer kingpins as well. The kingpin pivot balls should be the same as the F109 ones as 3Racing copied the design from Tamiya parts so you might be able to use the F109 ones. You might also want the F104 D parts for the servo mounts as they have a cut-out to clear the F104 rear mounting point, although you could just cut a section out of the servo mounts you have with the F109.

Parts you will need are
1 packs of 51381 F104 F parts
1 pack of 19808240 3x35mm bolts
1 pack of 19804206 5mm ball connector nuts
1 pack of 19808245 aluminium balls
1 pack of 19808246 aluminium balls
1 pack of 19808241 3x33 shaft

You can use the F109 steering knuckles, springs and centre mounting bolts rather than buy the F104 parts, they are identical so you don't need to buy them. You might want to add a couple of self tappers and washers to go on top of the steering stops, although they aren't necessary.

The manual for the F104 is here
http://www.tamiya.com/japan/download...al/f104pro.pdf
so you can see what parts are needed and how it is assembled.

With the front modified you will want to fit F104 wheels all round.

kikcaffine

iTrader: (32)

Glorious!

Thank you so much!

warnos

iTrader: (11)

Have put the outtuned diff on my 109 and noticed the instructions are a bit off for the inner M8 x12 x3.5 bearings. If you put the 1st bearing on before the spur u cannot fit the spur on.. or are you meant to drill out the spur so the spur goes on the M8 bearing?.. What I did was just put both bearings on after the spur..

What have other ppl done?

Also I am no longer using the black plastic thing u run in between the spur and the shaft.. I am just running the spur is this what other are doing?

Must say its allot better then running the standard diff... allot smoother..and the car turns the same both ways now..

terry.sc

It depends on what spur gear you are using.

Using Tamiya spur gears you put the bearing on first, which then sits inside the spur gear. If you are using standard spur gears then you need to use the POM gear ring to centre the spur gear on the axle. Running the spur gear without the adaptor ring means there's nothing to keep the spur gear centred on the axle and it will quickly destroy the spur gear. BTW the kit moulded adaptor ring isn't the best option as it isn't perfectly true, the machined POM gear ring that both 3Racing and Tamiya sell gives you a better located spur gear so better gear mesh.

I must admit I tried the out-tuned diff but went back to the kit diff with the Tamiya 51346 one piece thrust bearing as I found it smoother than the out tuned diff and held it's settings better. I do change spur gears depending on the track I'm racing on and tyre diameter, and I use the diff settings as a handling tuning aid, so I found the out-tuned diff a pain to work on compared with the kit one. Others don't adjust the diff settings or gear ratio but change tyres often, so are happy with the out-tuned diff.

texastc

iTrader: (2)

ordered my f109 from HKS friday the 3rd. I finally got confirmation from them tonight the 8th and they are shipping tomorrow. Im more than very disappointed in HKS and there customer service. Emailed them 3 times since friday and tried to call. No more ordering from them.